I’m new to this art medium, I don’t really know what I’m doing, but like everything I do on this site, I’m willing to give it a go, always willing to learn. So here we go.
I was watching a program on TV a week or so back and was watching a stained glass window being repaired. I was fascinated with the expertise and commitment these guys put into repairing these pieces of art. I thought to myself that this is something I would love to try but obviously I just don’t have the expertise, space or ability these guys have.
So I had a look around for simpler alternatives and that’s where I found out about Faux stained glass painting. It’s a whole lot easier, less expensive, and I have most of the tools required already.
I’ve attached a video of the technique that I’m interested in, this video has kind of sold the process to me.
I’m going to give this a go now, let’s get started.
My Subject:
I’ve chosen two simple potential templates that were free to download from the internet. As this is my first attempt I’ve chosen a couple of design templates that will be good for a first attempt at this type of art. I’ve chosen a bird and a simple flower.

What do I need?
Not a lot to be honest, below is the minimal requirements.
- Craft PVA glue
- Craft clear glue
- Paints – I use acrylic, you can use pretty much whatever paint you have around.
- An old cheap frame, with glass
- Brushes, or sponge applicators, some tape and cleaning materials
And that’s basically all you need.
Ive been out and purchased some supplies including some shadow box frames that were on offer. These will be my guinea pigs for the purpose of this post.

I’ve chosen the flower template for my first attempt as it is slightly less involved. I’ve mixed some black acrylic paint in with some PVA as this is what you use to form the black “Lead” type outline. I’ve done some samples on plain A4 paper to perfect the technique as it was coming out all blobby and runny, I think I’ve now perfected how much the nozzle needs opening and now I’m quite happy with the outcome.
Let’s go:
Next i tape the template to the rear of the frames glass, i then clean the front of the glass getting rid of finger prints and anything greasy that might stop the ink bonding to the glass.

Using a steady hand you then just add the glue/paint to the top of the glass following the template underneath. Don’t worry too much if you get some blobs and bubbles, the bubbles can be burst by using a needle and the blobs can be dealt with when the solution dries, because the glue can be easily cut or peeled back. Don’t worry too much about little mistakes, just go with it. Don’t worry about making straight lines perfect as the irregularities just add to the authenticity of the piece. You don’t see perfect lines on old stained glass windows, so don’t worry. I use some small paper tortillons just to remove some small smudges and they work fine.


Now we just need to wait for the outline to dry and I’d suggest leaving this for a good eight hours or so.
Whilst I’m waiting for this one to dry I’ve done another small one with just some random geometric shapes. I love the way this one has just spread out and gained a great scruffy edged look. Can’t wait to paint it.


There are many ways to do this technique and the video at the top of the page gives yet another two ways to obtain this outcome. These are my first two attempts and I’m going to try the techniques in Emily Seilhamers videos at a later date. Meanwhile back to my two attempts.
For painting you need some clear school glue and whatever your preferred paints are. I’m using some acrylic paints as I have plenty of them around. Using a tiny spot of paint you then add some glue at a slightly greater ratio than the paint, the thinner it goes on the more translucent it will be, if thicker it will be more opaque. Don’t t worry about paint strokes, it will happen as you are painting with glue. The good thing is if you are not happy with the outcome you a can always use a craft knife and just peel the offending colour off. It’s easy.


The good thing is that this paint dries really quick and in a warm room it’s probably dry in just over one hour.


I’m quite happy with my first attempts, there are little mistakes and many things I have learned from trying this medium. I’m not going to make any changes to what I have done as I want to display them as battle scars. You know, a snapshot of what I did at the time and how I have learned from it. The next examples will be better, I have a third one of these box frames and that will incorporate all I have learned from doing these little prints. It will be just like a journey into Faux stained glass in three parts, and they will all be on display.
This project isn’t quite finished yet though, there is one other thing to do. The perfect place to display these items of course is right up against a window just the bare glass, allowing the sun to come through and show off all those lovely colours. However you can also display these pictures within frames and this finishing touch courtesy of Emily Seilhamer, completes that look.
You just need some kitchen foil. Yes you heard correctly. Kitchen foil.
Cut a piece of foil just slightly bigger than the backing cover of your frame. Now scrunch it all up but not too tightly. Just move it around in your hands until it appears to have an even amount of creasing as this is to be come your light refracting layer.

Attach this to the frame back and then secure it back in the frame against the glass you have painted, trim and tidy the foil using tape at the rear of the frame.
Now turn it over



See how that tin foil now reflects all the available light and makes your picture look totally different. The refraction appears to help cover up the brush strokes we discussed earlier, and you can now display your pictures in any area of the house, and any available light will be reflected on to and will enhance your pictures.

I hope you have enjoyed this post, as much as I have putting it together. Thanks as always for passing by. It’s always very much appreciated.
Peace to you all.

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