Canon Speedlite 199A flashgun

Can I bring a dead Canon 199a flashgun back to life? You betcha!

I love working with flashguns, but believe me they are highly dangerous and potentially deadly pieces of kit, once you get under the skin otherwise known as its protective casing. I inherited this one from a good friend of mine who is a professional photographer, the post regarding what he passed on to me can be found here: Cameras…i need more!

Now please do not go delving into the back of these things unless you know what you are doing. Yes they might only be powered by 6-9v of power from your batteries, however in the process of getting to the point where they unleash a lightning flash for your photographic opportunity, they have passed through a component called a flash capacitor, this component greatly amplifies the voltage from that measly 6-9v from your batteries up to what is now between 3-400v for the flash. Yes, you read right right, 400 VOLTS.

That can kill, and if it doesn’t, you have been very fortunate, but you will probably bear an entry and exit burn where you made contact with that very component. If it goes across both hands it’s probably going to go right through that pump in your chest that keeps you alive – your heart, and that can be fatal. You have been warned – take heed!

I must admit I’ve done something here I don’t usually do, and that is clean before searching for the problem. This unit had two or three old company stickers on it that I have now removed. I then gave it a quick clean and a buff and I must admit it has come up very well. I will give it another clean when i have finished, as well as a final polish with some cockpit cleaner.

Production of this flash unit commenced in 1978 for use with the Canon “A” range of cameras that were being produced around this time. It can also be used with some other camera ranges. Before we get into exactly what is wrong with this specific unit, let’s look at some information regarding the spec of this flashgun:

The Canon Speedlite 199A is a dedicated, thyristorized flash unit designed for operation with Canon “A” series cameras. The Speedlite 199A features a high Guide Number of 98 with ISO 100 film, three automatic flash ranges plus Manual and automatic bounce flash capability. The most powerful shoe-mount Speedlite in the Canon line, the 199A is recommended for use with the Canon A-1 or any “A” series camera with motor drive or Power Winder A due to its high power and very rapid recycling time.

Technical Specification: –

Type: High-powered shoe-mount flash; automatic, thyristor type
Guide Number: 98 (ISO 100, feet), 60 w/wide adaptor
Recycling Time: 10 seconds with Alkaline-Manganese batteries 6 seconds w/Ni-Cd batteries
Number of Flashes: 100- 1000 w/Alkaline-Manganese batteries 50-500 w/Ni-Cd batteries
Auto Flash Ranges: 3
Auto Apertures: (ISO 100) Red-f/2.8 Green-f/5.6 Yellow-f/11
Bounce:Yes
Flash Coverage: For 35 mm format, covers angle of view of 35 mm lens; covers 24 mm w/adaptor
Color Temperature: Daylight
Power Source: 4 “AV size Alkaline or Ni-Cd batteries
Dimensions: 3-1/8 x 3-1/4 x 4-1/2 in.
Weight: 1 lb., 1-5/16 oz.

Mir.com

Asssesment:

As you can see in the photos above, and as I stated at the beginning, I’ve gone arse about face on this one and cleaned it prior to diagnosing what the actual issue is. Please forgive me as I was in a cleaning mood at the time, and if I’m in that mood everything gets cleaned.

It runs off of four AA type batteries that fit in to a cassette that sits in the side of the unit. All contacts are clean and there is no sign of any battery leakage. You can see the cartridge in the photos above. The flash unit comes in a Canon branded leatherette pouch that is in absolutely perfect condition. Inside the pouch is a diffuser / wide angle lens that slides over the actual flash head. The whole unit looks fantastically clean and tidy, with no signs at all of any damage or wear.

Put the batteries in though, and turn on the switch. And nothing. It’s dead. Kaput.

With these old flash units you were always used to hearing that family high pitched whistle when you turned it on. That was the system telling you that the capacitor inside was taking a charge and getting ready for business. Over time, the capacitor can loose its effectiveness, it semi retires if you like, and on occasions it retires fully, it dies a death. I very much suspect this is what could possibly have happened here, I just hope ours is in a deep sleep and can be woken up.

So as we move on to what we are going to do, the only issue here is that it’s simply not accepting a charge, and we will then discuss the two options on how we may now breathe life into this geriatric flash gun.

One thing that always annoys me when I search for possible ways of approaching the repair, is the attitude of people who have grown use to us all being consumer driven, the attitude stinks. These units can be purchased for very small amounts now and they loudly advise,”Just buy a cheap replacement and throw that one away!” This annoys me as you well know, because that’s not what this site is about, if I can repair something, no matter how inexpensive it is, I will. There is no need for this continuous throw away attitude. It’s a good way to learn just how things work.

Rant over, let’s move on….

Repair:

One of the easiest and least invasive, and therefore safest ways to start investigations, to look for a remedy, is to first get a nice fresh batch of alkaline batteries. With these in place within the unit, turn the flash power switch on and just leave it like that for anywhere between 2-8 hours. It has been known in the past, to act like a trickle charge as that flash capacitor has not been active for god knows how many years, it kind of revives it. It sometimes works, more often than not it doesn’t. But it’s worth giving it a try. So here goes. If this doesn’t work then our only other option is to get the unit opened up and to replace that beast of a flash capacitor.

I’m just coming off of a night shift and will shortly be heading off to bed, what better time to try this method out. So I’ll see you in a few hours 👋

And so the wait begins. Fresh batteries in place and turned on at 06:20….

I’ve arisen from my pit about five hours later, and what do you know….

Well, it’s only gone and bloody well worked hasn’t it?

And 5 hours later….it actually works

Sometimes it’s the simplest of procedures that can bring old equipment back to life, and when the fix is non invasive, going no where near those dangerous internal components, it can only be a good thing can’t it? And to think this was just placed in a box for disposal. Well it’s got a new lease of life now.

It really is working

I’m really pleased with this so let’s move on to the final stages and get this little beauty polished and presented.

Result:

And yes it is a result, a result of patience and perseverance and thinking outside of the box as they say, in office inspired corporate management speak.

In a number of these “repairs” it’s best to exhaust all other options prior to getting the screwdrivers out, just like a surgeon explores all options prior to getting the knives out. I’m in no way comparing myself to a surgeon, you wouldn’t want me anywhere near you with a scalpel! I’m just using it as a pretty poor comparison, so I guess it’s best I shut up now and just get on with whatever I’m supposed to be doing.

So that’s another little repair put to bed, and another piece of electrical detritus pulled from the arms of the scrap man. I always feel a great sense of accomplishment when I mange to get these old bits of kit working again. It frightens me to think just how much salvageable tech equipment gets discarded when it could quite easily have its life extended with the minimal amount of intervention.

My plan is to add this flash to my Canon “A” series collection as that is what it was originally designed for. And I may well add a link here, when I get to use it whilst testing any new “A” series cameras that just happen to come my way, as they invariably do, that require my attention.

As always, thanks for passing by. It’s always most appreciated.

Metz 45 CT-1 Flash gun

I was given a professional flashgun with a number of issues. Let’s get it fixed.

I love working with flashguns, but believe me they are highly dangerous and potentially deadly pieces of kit, once you get under the skin otherwise known as its protective casing. I inherited this one from a good friend of mine who is a professional photographer, the post regarding what he passed on to me can be found here: Cameras…i need more!

Now please do not go delving into the back of these things unless you know what you are doing. Yes they might only be powered by 6-9v of power from your batteries, however in the process of getting to the point where they unleash a lightning flash for your photographic opportunity, they have passed through a component called a capacitor, that greatly amplifies the voltage from that measly 6-9v from your batteries up to what is now between 3-400v for the flash. Yes, you read right, 400 VOLTS.

That can kill, and if it doesn’t, you have been very fortunate, but will probably bear an entry and exit burn where you made contact with that very component. You have been warned – take heed!

Here’s a little about this flashgun. They were manufactured circa 1979.

The Metz 45 CT-1 is a classic, powerful handle-mount flash gun known for its “hammerhead” design, high light output, and versatile features like a swivel and tilt head. It was a popular and durable accessory for professional photographers. 

Key Features

  • Guide Number: The flash has a high guide number of 45 metres at ISO 100, indicating powerful light output.
  • Exposure Control: It features an analog control display and offers five different “tele-computer” automatic aperture settings, allowing for easy exposure control in automatic mode.
  • Versatility: The flash head can swivel and tilt, allowing for bounce flash techniques to achieve softer, more flattering light. It also includes a built-in wide-angle diffuser.
  • Compatibility: The 45 CT-1 is a non-dedicated flash with a standard sync cable connection, making it universally compatible with many cameras, both film and digital (with caveats).
  • Power Source: It typically uses a rechargeable NiCad battery pack or a holder for 6x AA batteries.
  • Durability: Known for its robust, professional construction. 

Google

Assessment:

To be honest on first receiving this unit, you didn’t know what was coming, but you could certainly smell it. Within the box the smell of battery corrosion was heavy. It’s a hard smell to describe but once you have dealt with it you know what’s coming, and this smelt really heavy.

The smell was coming from two battery pods that play in to the base of the flashgun arm. Thankfully they had been kept separately, and their spread of “Corrosion” was not able to get to the main unit.

The main unit itself had a problem in that the head was floppy, unable to be at any other angle than straight up or, flat down and nothing in between, and something was rattling about inside of it.

So bearing in mind my sermon at the start of this post, I gloved up, armed myself with my capacitor discharge probe and cracked the unit open.

Repair:

Straight in at the head of the unit and I went in search of my nemesis. The charge capacitor. And it wasn’t that hard to find. Sitting there all inoffensive and bright yellow, it was rated at 360 volts. As I had put a small load on it earlier to test its operation it was sitting there still holding a charge of 260 volts, needless to say I made sure this was discharged before I commenced any work in the area.

The “Knuckle” that the head pivots on is just behind the capacitor, so it made sense to discharge it.

The piece that was rattling about was relevant to the reason the head wasn’t able to pivot, it was once part of a rectangular washer that had a serrated side that would mesh up against the head that was also serrated to create a clicking action to angle the head at any point between zero and ninety degrees.

The broken mesh washer

As parts for these had ceased production years back it was time to improvise.

Here is the setup as it was originally.

Original setup

You will see a chrome bolt, that has a spring along its length that would have applied pressure on the mesh washer that is now broken, allowing the head to click into varying angles. To make up for this I have now added a washer on either end so the spring no longer gets depressed, and where the old mesh washer used to be I have now added two small “crinkle” washers that should now take over where the mesh washer was originally placed. the washer at the other end prevents too much compromise, allowing more pressure to be added at the securing end with out damage to the plastic frame.

I’ve tried moving the head and although there isn’t the clicking now, the head does remain in position, whatever angle it is placed in. There is free movement around all axis, and the head stays where it is placed. I’m happy this has been repaired in that sense. Let’s get the casing back on.

The next issue is the corrosion issue. Below you will see before and after photos, all that was used here was an old tooth brush, cotton buds, tooth picks and isopropyl alcohol. And a lot of time and patience

Once these were cleaned, I used a multimeter to check their continuity and all seemed fine. A final clean with some antibacterial cleaner has left them looking and smelling a lot sweeter than when they first arrived.

Reassembled, polished and smelling fine

A very brief video showing its operation.

One minute of unadulterated flashing

And with that, apart from a good old polish I think we are done here.

Result:

Look at me

And doesn’t she look gorgeous after a good Polish?

This flash was really destined for the dump, and has now been given a new lease of life. Perfectly usable, in a very good condition and a lovely piece of photographic history. I’m so pleased with how this project has gone and so proud of myself for saving yet another classic item from landfill.

Thank you so much for passing by, as always you know it is very much appreciated.