Passionate hobbyist, restoring the past, one old camera at a time. iPhone14 Max Pro - Sony A7II and about 80 others from the days of silver halide 📸 Main aim in life - Retirement
Learnings from testing an old camera with expired film stock
Earlier in November 2025 i repaired a Canon Eos 10 camera from the 1990s and then took it out to test it with a roll of Kodak 400 asa film. You can find the repair here: Canon EOS 10
Canon EOS 10
The caveat is that the film expired in 2005, 20 years ago. As a result I have overexposed it at 200 asa to compensate for the deterioration in sensitivity from such a long storage period. It may work, it may not, previous tests on a 200 asa film showed that a one stop over exposure was quite sufficient. Fingers crossed 🤞 on this one.
I don’t expect anything much, I expect quite a bit of grain and a definite colour hue over the entire roll. Who knows there may be nothing on it at all 🤷♂️
I’ve sent the roll off to our local photo guys in Leicester : Classic Photo Supplies and hopefully something will be on the medium res scans that i have requested. If there are pictures below, then there was some success, if not, enjoy the blackness.
Well, the scans are back and to be quite honest this one is a bit of a disaster. As stated the film is over 20 years out of date and there appears to be two problems here. Underexposure is one issue, I over exposed this by one stop but I don’t even think that is enough. If I’d overexposed at 2 stops though I might have improved the brightness, the already heavy grain would have been even more exaggerated. I think it’s fair to say this 400 asa old film stock I have is passed its time and not really fit for use.
Look at the grain at plus one stop overexposure
Hello what’s that line?
Heavy grain and a magenta cast
That shutter sync problem
Slower speed, shutter ok
So. Though the results were not good and I have now realised that this old stock film is probably best for me to use as test film only. There is heavy grain, a distinct cast over the film and a quite obvious shutter curtains sync issue. These frames above a shutter speed of 500 seem to be the issue, and that is where the shutter speed has not synced the curtain, it’s definitely running slow. The film has been beneficial in identifying an issue in this part of the camera. I will now do a CLA on this camera shutter assembly to try to remedy this issue. I wasn’t using flash here, it was a dull cold English Sunday afternoon.
This is an old camera that has been sitting idle for many years, it may sort itself out after a few more rolls of film, however I can do something about it now. And this is really a lesson to be learned for anyone buying old film cameras, they do need that little bit of tender loving care to get them back into a good working condition.
I’m pleased I’ve highlighted this issue, I will get the work done to improve the shutter sync and then run another roll of film through it.
Maybe now is the time to buy a shutter speed optical tester. That may save me a bit of expense on processing costs and will also allow me to make these checks before committing to film.
I was given a professional flashgun with a number of issues. Let’s get it fixed.
I love working with flashguns, but believe me they are highly dangerous and potentially deadly pieces of kit, once you get under the skin otherwise known as its protective casing. I inherited this one from a good friend of mine who is a professional photographer, the post regarding what he passed on to me can be found here: Cameras…i need more!
Now please do not go delving into the back of these things unless you know what you are doing. Yes they might only be powered by 6-9v of power from your batteries, however in the process of getting to the point where they unleash a lightning flash for your photographic opportunity, they have passed through a component called a capacitor, that greatly amplifies the voltage from that measly 6-9v from your batteries up to what is now between 3-400v for the flash. Yes, you read right, 400 VOLTS.
That can kill, and if it doesn’t, you have been very fortunate, but will probably bear an entry and exit burn where you made contact with that very component. You have been warned – take heed!
Metz 45 CT-1Floppy headYou could smell thisCorrosionLovely shade of blueCorrosion carnage
Here’s a little about this flashgun. They were manufactured circa 1979.
The Metz 45 CT-1 is a classic, powerful handle-mount flash gun known for its “hammerhead” design, high light output, and versatile features like a swivel and tilt head. It was a popular and durable accessory for professional photographers.
Key Features
Guide Number: The flash has a high guide number of 45 metres at ISO 100, indicating powerful light output.
Exposure Control: It features an analog control display and offers five different “tele-computer” automatic aperture settings, allowing for easy exposure control in automatic mode.
Versatility: The flash head can swivel and tilt, allowing for bounce flash techniques to achieve softer, more flattering light. It also includes a built-in wide-angle diffuser.
Compatibility: The 45 CT-1 is a non-dedicated flash with a standard sync cable connection, making it universally compatible with many cameras, both film and digital (with caveats).
Power Source: It typically uses a rechargeable NiCad battery pack or a holder for 6x AA batteries.
Durability: Known for its robust, professional construction.
Google
Assessment:
To be honest on first receiving this unit, you didn’t know what was coming, but you could certainly smell it. Within the box the smell of battery corrosion was heavy. It’s a hard smell to describe but once you have dealt with it you know what’s coming, and this smelt really heavy.
Awful corrosion
The smell was coming from two battery pods that play in to the base of the flashgun arm. Thankfully they had been kept separately, and their spread of “Corrosion” was not able to get to the main unit.
The main unit itself had a problem in that the head was floppy, unable to be at any other angle than straight up or, flat down and nothing in between, and something was rattling about inside of it.
So bearing in mind my sermon at the start of this post, I gloved up, armed myself with my capacitor discharge probe and cracked the unit open.
Repair:
Straight in at the head of the unit and I went in search of my nemesis. The charge capacitor. And it wasn’t that hard to find. Sitting there all inoffensive and bright yellow, it was rated at 360 volts. As I had put a small load on it earlier to test its operation it was sitting there still holding a charge of 260 volts, needless to say I made sure this was discharged before I commenced any work in the area.
Now where is it?Come on don’t hideAhh there you are
The “Knuckle” that the head pivots on is just behind the capacitor, so it made sense to discharge it.
The piece that was rattling about was relevant to the reason the head wasn’t able to pivot, it was once part of a rectangular washer that had a serrated side that would mesh up against the head that was also serrated to create a clicking action to angle the head at any point between zero and ninety degrees.
The broken mesh washer
As parts for these had ceased production years back it was time to improvise.
Here is the setup as it was originally.
Original setup
You will see a chrome bolt, that has a spring along its length that would have applied pressure on the mesh washer that is now broken, allowing the head to click into varying angles. To make up for this I have now added a washer on either end so the spring no longer gets depressed, and where the old mesh washer used to be I have now added two small “crinkle” washers that should now take over where the mesh washer was originally placed. the washer at the other end prevents too much compromise, allowing more pressure to be added at the securing end with out damage to the plastic frame.
Washers either end as well as two more internally
I’ve tried moving the head and although there isn’t the clicking now, the head does remain in position, whatever angle it is placed in. There is free movement around all axis, and the head stays where it is placed. I’m happy this has been repaired in that sense. Let’s get the casing back on.
The next issue is the corrosion issue. Below you will see before and after photos, all that was used here was an old tooth brush, cotton buds, tooth picks and isopropyl alcohol. And a lot of time and patience
Battery case one, before and afterBattery case two, before and after
Once these were cleaned, I used a multimeter to check their continuity and all seemed fine. A final clean with some antibacterial cleaner has left them looking and smelling a lot sweeter than when they first arrived.
Reassembled, polished and smelling fine
A very brief video showing its operation.
One minute of unadulterated flashing
And with that, apart from a good old polish I think we are done here.
Result:
Look at me
Pivots just lovely now
And doesn’t she look gorgeous after a good Polish?
This flash was really destined for the dump, and has now been given a new lease of life. Perfectly usable, in a very good condition and a lovely piece of photographic history. I’m so pleased with how this project has gone and so proud of myself for saving yet another classic item from landfill.
Thank you so much for passing by, as always you know it is very much appreciated.
I now have a Canon AV1 with a shutter problem. Can I fix it? I’ll have a good go…
What the listing stated:
This camera is in very good overall condition. Some light signs of use but this is generally minor. The light meter is responsive when you press the shutter button down. However, the shutter will not fire. Spares or repairs only.
EBay
I’ve just paid £8:98GBP for this camera, and I believe this is a great price for a piece of camera history. The AV was introduced due to there being a demand for aperture priority at the time, whereas its Sibling, the AE1 was purely shutter priority. Later cameras would come to incorporate both systems. This one has a known problem with a stuck mirror – it won’t fire and I think I can easily sort this problem. Well I hope I can.
The Canon AV1 I have just purchased
Here’s a little information about this camera:
The Canon AV-1 is a 35 mm single-lens reflex camera with an FD lens mount, introduced by Canon Inc. in 1979.
The AV-1 is very similar to the 1976 AE-1 but provides aperture priority autoexposure rather than the AE-1’s shutter speed priority AE.The camera is not capable of fully manual exposure. Canon’s international distributors, particularly in the United States, had clamored for such a camera because competing brands offered mostly aperture-priority cameras and some preferred it. The AV in the name referred to the type of autoexposure; Av (Aperture Value) is a common abbreviation for aperture priority.
When this camera appeared, a new range of FD lenses was introduced, with instant mounting/unmounting of the lens. This is called the New FD mount and does away with the older type of mounting ring which was fitted on to the rear of the lens and was awkward to use and needed two hands, to a newer, easier system whereby the user lined up the red dot on the lens, with the red dot on the camera and simply turned the whole lens clockwise until it clicked into place.
All the other AE-1 accessories fit the AV-1.
Wikipedia
I’ve decided to collect all of the Canon “A”Series of cameras, and this adds to my current collection that consists of an A1 and an AE1. There were I believe, six cameras in this range and this current camera will be my fourth. Here’s a list of the “A” range of cameras below. I have highlighted with an asterisk all that I currently have at the date of this blog post being published:
The original listing description does not match the issues that I have found. It originally stated that the light meter is responsive, it isn’t. It also stated that the shutter does not fire, it does when a battery is installed. The battery level indicator in the viewfinder does work when the check button on the camera is depressed. However when you focus the camera and half depress the exposure button to get a meter reading, the needle in the viewfinder doesn’t respond, this is the only real issue I can see, I guess the seller must have been looking at another camera as he wrote the listing for this camera.
Battery level reading in the viewfinder
All settings appear to be working as they should, the “B”setting allows me to scroll through the “f” stop settings to see the aperture leaves working as they should. All “f” stop settings appear to work on the auto setting.
Camera appears tidy but grubby
It’s a smart little camera, this a tidy example of this version with no dents, dinks and just some very fine scrapes on the base as you’d expect from a camera fast approaching 46 years old (1979-2025). It’s a bit dirty and needs a good clean inside and out, the light seals are in a good state and not requiring replacement or repair just yet, however the mirror bumper has deteriorated and this will need replacement.
Mirror bumper needs replacement
The shutter curtain is in a good and untouched condition.
I’m going to research issues with the exposure indication, and I will incorporate my findings within the repair section.
Repair:
I thought, perhaps the camera is suffering from lack of use? It certainly is probably some considerable time since this camera was last used. Firstly I’ll try exercising all the controls that affect the exposure reading, including the mode dial, film speed dial, aperture ring, etc. I’ll work them backwards and forwards a few times to see if this helps to clean the variable resistor tracks inside from any surface contamination. When the FD lens is attached you must be mindful that the “A” setting on the lens is not used and that the f stop settings are used in a manual manner, lens auto is not a function on this camera.
Auto shutter on cameraDo not use the “A” setting on the lens. It doesn’t work
To be honest, this did seem to work sort of. The needle has moved off the bottom a bit. The ASA setting was on 100, so I put it up to 1600 as it is quite a dark day and the sensitivity of the light sensor would be reflected better at this setting. It moved a bit but I wasn’t totally convinced that this indication in the viewfinder reflected the true light situation.
I set a higher ASA for testing
There’s also a small, silver push-button just inside the lens mount at about the 4-5 o’clock position. If you press this in and release it a few times for the same reason, as exercising the dials as I did above, it is just like exercising a body part and keeping it supple. Leave items like this, designed for high usage redundant for a while and they soon seize up. it has also been known to assist with getting the needle indication working after a long lay off.
That silver button, highlighted
(A little bit of trivia here – this button is normally used for the lens to inform the body of the lens’s maximum aperture. This information isn’t needed on the AV-1, but Canon included it anyway for some reason, and it does affect the exposure.)
And combining these actions, moving the settings dial and the button inside the lens mount seems to have revitalised the light meter and I’m now quite confident that it is working as intended. It was just lazy due to low use and needed a bit of non invasive intervention to get it working again. And non invasive intervention is always a good thing. So with the setting back to 200ASA I was able to show the meter working in this very short and basic video below.
A brief video showing the meter needle moving
I’m confident that the metering issue is now sorted so let’s get that new mirror damper installed.
A lot of dirt came off of the area where the replacement damper had to go, it had completely deteriorated and took quite a bit of cleaning.
New damper in place Dirt that came off, and replacement damper ready to go into place
Now in place it has silenced the mirror movement somewhat, and will provide some longevity as it moves into the twilight of its years. It will be good for many more rolls of film yet. Whilst in the lens area I have cleaned the mirror and prism, and given the area a good blow through and put the lens back in place to seal it all up. It is now clean internally. I have a couple of body caps on order that will assist with storage when the lens is removed.
Just a final clean with some cockpit cleaner, and this camera has come up lovely, I’ve tested it on a Power winder “A” as well and it sounds just so good and “retro”. It’s perfect.
Result:
Well. I now have another lovely example of one of the Canon “A” range of cameras to add to my collection. This brings my current total to four out of the six available, two of which are still currently under repair. For less than £10:00GBP it is so easy to own a piece of photographic history. I have been lucky here that the work that had to be done was non intrusive, and to be quite honest was just basic everyday maintenance. The only real work of sorts was installing some mirror damper felt, of which I have plenty of stock. Cleaning was quite intensive but the overall result is amazing.
Front views after cleaning Looking amazing compared to what arrived
I will eventually run a roll of film through for a final quality check, however I have such a backlog it will take me a while. When I do however run that test roll I will post a link here:
Really pleased with this repair, and the fact that another lovely old camera has been saved from the scrap heap and been given a new lease of life.
Thanks as always for passing by. It is as always, very much appreciated.
Just walking around the east coast of Norfolk Uk. Seaside places are usually a hive of activity during the summer months and then winter hits and everything then shuts down.
There is an eeriness of silence everywhere and I think black and white photos highlight that feeling just perfectly.
Ventured off to the East coast for a few days.. just arrived in Great Yarmouth
We’ve taken a drive up the A47 today and are currently residing in Great Yarmouth for the night. Tomorrow we move next door for a few days to Hopton on sea for a little rest and recuperation.
We arrived here just as the sun was setting, so just the one picture to be cracking on with.
Great Yarmouth earlier today
Hoping for a little stress free time away from it all as everything has been just a bit too full on lately.
A small piece regarding the Canon “A” series camera range. Development and technological advancement.
As i seem to be purchasing a number of the old “A” type camera bodies for repair, I have now decided to add the full range of “A” type cameras to my collection. I’m a tad biased as I have used Canon cameras right from the very start of my photographic education, in fact the first one i used was an A1 variant. I’ve put together the following piece to explain why these cameras were so popular, and to highlight their technological advancement along the way, the technology that influenced other manufacturers to up their game and give the consumer just what they wanted out of a camera, options and greater control.
My Canon A1
The Canon A-series of 35mm SLR cameras, produced from the mid-1970s through to the early 1980s, represents one of the most influential periods in Canon’s film-camera history. It began with the groundbreaking Canon AE-1 in 1976, a camera that reshaped the industry by integrating a microprocessor – the first mass-market SLR to do so. This innovation allowed Canon to simplify mechanical complexity and reduce manufacturing costs whilst offering features previously found only in higher-end professional bodies. The AE-1’s shutter-priority auto-exposure, bright viewfinder, and strong reliability made it both approachable for beginners and capable enough for enthusiasts, turning it into one of the best-selling SLRs of all time.
My AE-1
Canon quickly expanded the lineup to address different types of photographers and to test new electronics-driven features. The AT-1 provided a more affordable, all-manual alternative, whilst the AV-1 (1979) offered aperture-priority automation, catering to photographers who preferred creative control over depth of field. The flagship A-1 (1978) pushed the boundaries even further – it became the world’s first SLR to offer full programmed auto-exposure, alongside shutter priority, aperture priority, and manual modes. This versatility foreshadowed the automation and electronic sophistication that would dominate future camera generations.
My AV-1
In the early 1980s, Canon introduced the AE-1 Program, refining the original AE-1 with a more advanced program mode and improved ergonomics. The final notable entry, the AL-1, included an innovative Focus Assist system that used contrast-detection indicators to help users achieve sharp focus – an early technological step toward the autofocus systems that would soon reshape the industry.
Collectively, the Canon A-series brought electronic control, affordability, and ease of use into the mainstream, playing a key role in shifting photography toward the automated, electronically driven era. Decades later, these cameras remain admired for their durability, classic design, and the satisfying, hands-on shooting experience they continue to provide.
At the time of writing, i have in my possession three of the six variants that were produced, and presently I am scouring the sales platforms to acquire suitable candidates for the remaining parts of this collection, to work on. I will update via this site as and when i have another one of this series to feature in a post. My current collection consists of the cameras below marked with an asterisk:
My current cameras in the “A” range marked with an asterisk
I would like to obtain a special mount for this series of cameras so i can display them as a collective sample of this wonderful range. They will all of course, all be fully usable, not museum pieces.
I love my beans, just don’t stand too close to me at the end of the day…
What are your family’s top 3 favorite meals?
There are just two of us in this house, and I’m going to list the top three meals after I have just had a discussion with my wife, whilst in bed, having an early morning cuppa. It’s cold outside, the heating is on and there is a nice sunny glow entering the window whilst everything outside has a crisp white coating of frost.
It’s chilly today
My wife’s choices are simple, and I didn’t even have to ask her first choice as it’s ingrained in my memory banks. Whenever we go out if there is one meal on the menu, I know it will be ordered and that meal is Ham, egg and chips. She adores it. Her second favourite is Lamb and her third is traditional home made rice pudding.
For me I’m also very simplistic. My favourite go to is quite simply Baked beans on toast, I may glamourise it a bit by adding a sprinkling of cheese, but plain old beans on toast is my favourite. Followed closely by sausage and mashed potato that may or may not also contain baked beans, (there’s a trend emerging here!) and last but not least, probably due to my living in the East Midlands, I do love a good tasty Curry, not one of those blisteringly hot ones, and preferably chicken based. (No baked beans here though!)
Baked beans on toast
So that’s it really, taking the wife and I out for dinner is never an expensive outing as we both have quite “cheap” tastes. Good food doesn’t need to be expensive poncey creations, good old fashioned wholesome food is probably the go to food for the majority of people wandering around this bit of rock floating in outer space.
Have a good meal, take care and stay safe. Keep warm!
Here I have another basic, entry level camera made by Canon. Produced around 1999? this camera is probably around 26 years old. These cameras don’t have the traditional identification number printed within the film spool holder that the older cameras had, hence the precise manufacturing date is difficult to confirm.
Canon EOS 3000
This is a camera passed onto me by a good friend and professional photographer, Jon, as can be seen in this post: Cameras…i need more!
Here’s a little information about this camera:
The EOS 3000 is an autofocus SLR for 35mm film introduced by Canon in 1999. It was sold as the EOS 88 in Asia. (It was not sold in the US.) The pentamirror viewfinder and manually-activated popup flash helped keep this a lower-cost model; but a full range of autoexposure modes were included, including off-the-film flash exposure setting. Film transport is motorized and the camera requires two 3-volt CR123 lithium batteries to operate.
A compact, lightweight, low-priced SLR camera. Successor to the EOS5000, but with greatly expanded basic functions. The camera incorporates the Mode Dial and most other basic features of the EOS Kiss/EOS REBEL XS/EOS500 and includes six-zone evaluative metering linked to three focusing points. In addition, the flash is linked to the measurement point so that during shooting the flash out-put level is constantly adjusted for optimum exposure control. For reasons of cost, the flash unit is manual pop-up/retractable head type. The EOS3000 is compatible with system accessories for the Kiss and New Kiss. The high-quality design has a feel of genuine elegance.
Canon/ Camera-wiki.org
This camera was pitched at a low cost to attract people into photography, and to encourage those who were just hobbyists to upgrade to something more than the traditional point and shoots/disposables available at the time.
There is not a lot wrong with this camera as far as I can see, let’s have a look and do some tests.
Assessment:
It has a grip that’s starting to develop the sticky issue so that will need cleaning. The mirror and prism are dusty and will need a cleaning.
Sticky grip and dusty internals
Overall the condition is very good, again this was a training camera, and seems to have had a quite low usage, as there is no scratches or marks. And only one dink as such. That dink happens to be the right hand strap holder that has been bent down to a point where the rear case does not open completely, it restricts its full movement.
Strap holder bent, restricting door opening
Door doesn’t open fully
Top and bottom of camera look fine, no bleed on the LCD screen that is always a good sign
No screen bleed Bottom clean
Battery chamber is clean and there is no contamination. This camera takes two 3v Lithium CR123A batteries. Let’s put two in to see if we have any life.
Clean chamberBatteries installed
With the batteries installed we have a good display on the screen with no pixelation and it’s nice and clear. I install a roll of test film to see what happens. This camera winds the whole film onto the take up spool and winds back one exposure at a time. The take up when the door is closed works perfectly.
All lights up fineFilm ready to load24 exposures loaded on to the take up spool
I then operate the shutter, to fire off the 14 exposures, all viewfinder indicators are good, with my 28-90 EF lens attached it focuses well and fires well. When the last exposure has been taken the film rewinds as expected with no issues. In reality the camera is working very well with no internal issues.
Repair:
First the dirty stuff. Let’s get that goo off of the sticky grip. I use my IPA and lint free cloth method that I posted about in a previous post here: Sticky, Rubber camera grips. This one is actually worse than I thought and has taken four applications to remove the deterioration on the grip. It feels a lot more pleasant though now that it is done.
The dirt from this grip can be seen on the cloth. Each black blob is one application
The issue with the strap lug restricting the door movement. Quite simply, a gentle movement with a pair of pliers was all that was required. Gently does it as these parts are brittle and easily broken. Don’t over do it, give up when it looks right.
A little gentle coaxing was all that was required
I’ve checked the film pressure pad and this is fine, there are no sharp ridges and the light seals are good. I don’t expect them to be bad as in theory they are not that old, they are in a good healthy condition.
I have cleaned the prism and the mirror with a swab and they are now fine. Using a B setting I have opened the mirror and curtain and used some compressed air to clean throughout. A brush blower was used with the curtain closed to clean around the film spool area and back plate. A quick final blow of the mirror and the aperture is then sealed with a cap to insure no further dirt and dust gets into the internal parts of the camera.
The final action is to use some cockpit polish to finish off the exterior of the camera.
Result:
I’ve cleaned the exterior and used some ceramic cockpit polish to finish it off, I must admit it’s looking very good.
Cleaned up lovely
Looking just gorgeous
Here I have yet another nice little camera packed with features that will make a great camera for someone to learn the basics of traditional photography with. However, it’s remaining in my collection for the while.
It’s yet another camera that I need to test, another one that needs to have a film put through it for its final test, however I am 100% confident of it’s capabilities and the fact that it operates just fine and all its settings, buttons and controls are doing exactly what they should. When I do get to put a film through, I will link to it here.
Another successful restoration and return to use of another old camera that had been put to one side. Not that this one really required a lot of attention, just a bit of servicing and tlc.
Thanks for passing by. It’s always very much appreciated
A nice entry level camera, from the mid 90s, now back in working order
Here I have a very basic, entry level camera made by Canon. Produced between 1996-9 this camera is currentlybetween 26 – 29 years old. These cameras don’t have the traditional identification number printed within the film spool holder that the older cameras had, hence the precise manufacturing date is difficult to confirm.
Canon EOS 500N
This is a camera passed onto me by a good friend and professional photographer, Jon, as can be seen in this post: Cameras…i need more!
I believe this camera was previously used by a large photographic organisation, to teach staff and students wishing to learn traditional 35mm film photography techniques. It was a training camera, at entry level specs.
It is a very good example of this model of camera, and despite its simplicity, low cost appearance and feel, it is in a very good condition cosmetically.
Here’s a little information about this camera:
The Canon EOS 500N is also known as the EOS Rebel G in the Americas or the New EOS Kiss in Japan. Sometimes it’s referred to as the EOS Kiss 2 as it followed the release of the EOS Kiss in Japan. This camera was released in 1996 and replaced the EOS 500. The Japanese version of the camera had the date back as standard. Its successor was the EOS-300 / REBEL2000 / Kiss III, released in 1999.
The body of the Rebel G is plastic, weighing 370 g (13 oz). The only colors available were black or a mix of silver and black. The Rebel G has an EF lens mount making it compatible with any EF lens. The viewfinder offers a 0.7x magnification, 90% coverage, center auto focus, wide auto focus and many more. The Rebel G shooting modes consisted of 6 basic modes, full auto, portrait, landscape, macro, sports and night scene. It also has 5 advanced modes, P, Av, Tv, M, A-DEP. These modes would continue on in the Rebel G series. The camera features a built in flash, and can shoot at 1 fps. The fastest shutter speed with flash was measured at 1/90 of a second.
A few new features include compatibility with ETTL type flash. It still has the same 1/90 of a sec sync speed of the previous model, but when equipped with a Canon Speedlight such as the 380EX, 220EX it can be used at 1/2000 of a sec. Focus has improved a bit as as a AF assist light is now available. Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) can be use from -2 to ++2 in 1/2 stop increments. The command dial now has an easier to access night scene mode. The body is able to use the BP-8 vertical grip that can also accept four AA batteries.
Camera-Wiki.org / Wikipedia
Assessment:
As Stated, this camera is in a good cosmetic condition with no sign of dents, dinks or wear. Considering this was a camera used in training I can only presume the students were extremely careful and respectful, or it was lightly used. Having worked with some of these students myself, i very much suspect, it’s more than likely going to be the latter option.
There is another such unit I have of this very same camera however that is damaged with a faulty screen that requires replacement and that will be dealt with in a future post. Meanwhile, let’s get back to this one.
A sticker on the rear
There is an old ownership sticker on the rear and this is one of those old vinyl type ones that will be able to be removed, but just may take a little while, as they are brittle and break off into lots of little pieces that go everywhere.
The battery chamber is clean and there are no signs of contamination. The screen is clear and does not show any bleed, though I haven’t powered it up just yet.
Clean battery chamberNo screen bleed
The film chamber, back pressure plate and shutter curtain all appear to be in good order. Again I will further test this when I put some batteries in and run a dummy film to check transport.
Curtain and film chamber appear fine Back pressure plate and door working fine
The unit is quite grubby and dusty, the mirror is dirty and the prism is as well. initially all looks good. Batteries, and the dummy film might tell us something different.
Repair:
Let’s get that sticker off the rear, a little soak in IPA to soften things up, and then using a small plastic modelling spatula to gently get under the label, I was able to remove the sticker relatively easily. If I’d used the metallic option I may well have scratched the casing. I’m happy that this option has worked well for me. A final clean at the end with some car cockpit cleaner should bring the detail out nicely.
Sticker now removed
Let’s get some power in, and fire this unit up. It takes two CR123A 3v lithium batteries.
CR123A batteries
We have power
Batteries in, and everything lights up, all menus function and as stated earlier their is no bleed from the LCD screen.
I load the film in and it instantly winds the whole film on to the take up spool. Here on the display, you can see that this roll is 24 exp and it has wound fully on to the take up spool. I fire off these 24 exposures to check the shutter and that fires fine, film transport also works well and the final rewind of the film at the end also works. In a nutshell, this camera works!
Film in and film out
I clean the prism and the mirror with a soft swab and you can just see the dust and dirt lift. A final brush over with a bulb blower completes this task. The internals are now clean.
It just needs a very thorough exterior clean and polish.
Result:
I’ve cleaned the exterior and used some ceramic cockpit polish to finish it off, I must admit it’s looking very good.
Here I have a nice little camera packed with features that will make a great camera for someone to learn the basics of traditional photography with. However, it’s remaining in my collection for the while.
Looking clean and presentable
From all angles a lovely clean example, operating just as it should
I’ve cleaned the camera throughout and used compressed air to finish the clean prior to sealing it from the elements. It’s yet another camera that I need to test, another one that needs to have a film put through it for its final test, however I am 100% confident of it’s capabilities and the fact that it operates just fine and all its settings, buttons and controls are doing exactly what they should. When I do get to put a film through, I will link to it here.
Another successful restoration and return to use of another old camera that had been put to one side. Not that this one really required a lot of attention, just a bit of servicing and tlc.
Thanks for passing by. It’s always very much appreciated.
Foxes Den 
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