Today 16th June 2025 and this boat that I was gifted for my last Birthday back in Nov 2024, finally underwent proper trials on water, and thankfully after all the issues experienced during the building process it came through them with flying colours. There are a few little tweaks to do as a result of the maiden voyage, but this will only go towards making it a far better and less stressful task on future excursions. Boy was i nervy about today, what with all my family watching.
A nervous owner placing his boat on the lake…
And off we go…slowly
I only have the one battery for the boat so time was limited, and I probably managed about 15 minutes with it nutting about, before it stopped and had to be rescued by my Brother in laws boat that just happens to be a tug, a seaborne version of the RAC.
Luckily the seaborne version of the RAC were on hand
Anyway prior to that minor mishap the boat performed quite well, the motor is hellishly powerful and I thought it would go either of two ways. Either it would launch itself out of the water like a missile or it would go nose first into a deep dive towards the bottom of the lake. Luckily it did neither, however I did learn that turning at speed is liable to capsize the boat, so care needed to be taken when performing turns under power.
And she works…..
As usual I have learned a lot. It needs some minor tweaks such as a better centralisation of the radio gear in the hull, it needs some Baffles to be put in around the front deck where the hull and the superstructure join, to prevent water ingress at speed. The front does sit low in the water but at speed the contours on the hull do create lift, and this does work very well, so I am particularly happy with this.
A great day out, at the start of the holiday, and the fact I didn’t have to go wading to rescue a failed boat is also an added bonus. Really looking forward to showing the videos and pictures to the elderly friend who purchased this fantastic gift for me. They will be as pleased as punch, as they know about all the hard work and care that has gone into getting this project finished.
Thanks for following the journey with this project. As always it is very much appreciated.
I have just finished a run of night shifts, as we are heading out to the coast for a few days with 12 others from the wife’s side of her family. I’ve kind of been in that frame of mind for a few days when people get closer to a vacation or break away when they just slip into “Holiday mode” at work, you know that feeling when the not so important stuff gets shoved to one side in the hope that one of your colleagues will pick it up, when in fact it will probably still be waiting for you to complete on your return. Yep I’ve been in that frame of mind for a few days now. I need a break, no matter how brief.
It’s going to involve an early start tomorrow as we head out to the east coast, first stop Gorleston in Norfolk where us old farts in the family gather at the local boating pond for a break, before moving on to our destination further up the coast. Gorleston is a beautiful part of the UK with one of the finest beaches you will ever see, it just seems to go on forever.
Gorleston beach
At Gorleston as I’ve previously mentioned, there is a very large boating pond. Here the older specimens of the clan take a break from driving to float their model boats. I’ve been watching them do this for years and have always threatened to build a model warship to jokingly blow them out of the water.
Gorleston boating lake
This year I have built a model boat, it is a torpedo boat, I know it floats but this will be its first true test of operation, it could go either way, it’s so damned fast that it could either just take off or dive into the depths of the lake. I hope it doesn’t though. You can read about the build of this boat in the two posts I created about its construction: PT109 wooden torpedo boat kit – construction and the last part: PT109 wooden torpedo boat kit – finishing. I hope to post a video of the actual “Sea trial” pending its maiden voyage or ritual sinking.
The boat
Anyway that’s tomorrow and to be totally honest I’m really looking forward to it.
Yesterday was a busy one, I rose fairly early considering I was working nights as there was a special event taking place. One of the younger members of the family, Jude who is only 14 was going to have his first flying lesson, purchased for him by his parents as a Christmas gift from last year. Luckily we have an airport close by that used to be a base for American forces back in the day, that was visited by Dwight D Eisenhower, and was also the home to a squadron of old Stirling bombers. Today it is a local aerodrome, but keeps the title of Leicester airport.
I love having a wander around old airports and in one hangar I found a beautiful old plane tucked away under tarpaulins, a MkIV Harvard built in 1952 for the Canadian Airforce but currently wearing the colours of the California ANG. Registered as G-CJWE (NG481273) known as “Dazzling Debs”.
Pic courtesy of Steve CoeSitting in a corner of the hangar
Jude was going to be heading off from Leicester up over Oakham and the Burleigh estate and Rutland water on a flight that was to be approximately 45 minutes in duration. His parents had paid for two passengers to accompany him, and I was asked if I’d like to be one of those passengers. I politely declined, as much as I love aircraft I’m not a good passenger and don’t really want to fly if there is not really the need to. This refusal worked out quite well as it now allowed both of his grandfathers to be those two accompanying passengers. How lovely is that, I never even got to meet either of my grandfathers, now Jude, has both of his grandfathers sitting proudly behind him.
A walk around with both Grandfathers “J” just about to get airborne
First flight ✈️
Needless to say, he created some lasting memories this day and was full of smiles on his return, in fact they all were. And to top it all it was a gorgeous day, with some cracking food and fun company.
Blog wise I’ve got the backlog down to ten posts in draft now, and by the end of next week that should be reduced by another couple as two older posts come to fruition. It’s been a busy week, no more estate agent tours as yet, we’ve requested a strict viewing criteria with them now, to deter the time wasters who most definitely have spare time in bucket loads.
Have a great weekend everyone, stay safe and try to stay happy.
How it looked in the last blog post prior to finishing
This post covers the finishing, that is the priming, painting and installation of the radio gear to complete the build of this wooden model boat.
I have to give a couple of coats of high build primer to the hull and deck sections, and for this task I will be using Guild lane high build primer.
This will seal the already sand sealed wood and give it a good foundation for the final paint application. I will give a good initial coat, lightly sand and fill any imperfections and then give a final second coat prior to choosing the colour scheme I’d like for this boat.
Today I have given the first two coats of primer to the hull and deck, and I’ve primed all of the cabins and guns and torpedos in preparation of individually painting them. I need to do a light sand on the hull and I believe a third coat will then suffice.
All deck weapons primed and painted
HullInner battery plateInside hull
I’ve given a light sanding to a couple of spots on the hull, I’ve filled a couple of tiny holes, sanded again then re sprayed the hull. I’m happy with how it looks at present. I’m not following a traditional paint scheme, so there will be no comparison to its original appearance. I’ve hand painted some of the deck fittings, put in the cabin windows and started to fix these items into place.
Hull painted deck fittings to be put in place. Deck dinghy painted and weathered Super structure addedDinghy placed Weaponry attached
I’m just awaiting some red paint to finish the hull, then I can get some decals in place. Then I can seal it all to finish the exterior of the model and then I can concentrate on setting the motor and the internal electrical elements up. Next I have to mask the area of the hull that I will paint red, I’ll do this now before the paint arrives as it just has to be right first time. I don’t want to be touching up too much if I can help it.
Masking of the upper deck in preparation for a red belly
I’ve made a pair of support struts out of balsa that sit behind the aerial, I’ve changed this area completely as it was too delicate and would have been a nightmare to transport. I’ve built a modern style array for a radar, I know it’s not going with tradition but again it makes for easier transport and reduces the need for repairs on the go.
First coat with mask in place
I’ve done the first three coats of red paint for the waterline, I’m going to leave this 24hrs now before I peel back the masking to reveal what mess I have underneath. Fingers crossed on this 🤞
Masking tape all removed
Fingers now uncrossed I’m really pleased with the outcome. The masking tape has been all removed and we now have a nice crisp line around where the red joins the grey. There’s some like marking up by the front end that believe it or not are finger nail marks when I was applying the mask. I’m not worried about this though as I have some sharks teeth decals coming that should cover this area. One of the little additions I wanted to make, to put my own mark on the build. Once all the decals are placed I will then give a final coat of a yacht varnish to seal all this work. I’m going to test a small area first as the last thing I want is for all this hard work to run into a gooey mess.
I have done the tests and commenced with coat one of the varnish. It looks gorgeous. Im probably going to do a further two light coats and that will be the hull complete. I haven’t put the decals on yet, I will probably do that prior to putting on the finishing coat.
All decals placedVarnished
All decals applied and final varnish completed. I can now look at getting the rudder and electronics installed. I’m happy with how the whole hull area looks.
Motor, prop shaft and rudder now in placeLooking good on her stand with prop and rudder in place
All that is needed now is to place the battery, receiver and ESC in place. I have quite a strict time on this build and I must have it ready for “Lake” trials when we go to Norfolk in June.
I will also be borrowing my brother in laws pond for 30 mins or so to do a balance and water tightness test.
Let’s get the electrics installed.
Having never really done this before, I’m quite amazed by the amount of gear I have to fit into such a small area.
All this has to go in there….i need a bigger boat
It’s in – just needs sorting
I’ve managed to put these items in-situ, in a rough position inside the hull. I need to shorten some cables, I need to somehow position the rudder servo, but I’m sure that will not be an issue. I’ve already tested the centre of balance and I’m happy with that. Later today I shall start to really tidy the layout by working from the front to the rear of the hull.
Front RearThank the Lord for Velcro tape. All complete apart from the rudder connection. I’m still working on that.
I’ve had to purchase a small bracket for the rudder servo along with a couple of connecting rods. Hopefully we can now complete the electrical connections within the hull and get the rudder operational, then I can get it water tested to check for leaks and balance.
Rudder linkage in place, just needs shortening
Rudder linkage now adjusted and in place
I’ve just had quite an annoying and inconvenient moment. The rudder linkage is all now in place and working fine, however the issue lies with the propeller shaft. I’ve rather foolishly connected it all up but left the propellor flush with the shaft end so when I put on full power to test, there was a burning smell as the propeller wizzed past my ear across the room and the shaft seized up. There was such a build up of friction between the propellor and shaft that the propeller melted and bent the 2mm prop shaft out of place. A stupid mistake, caused by my rushing to get this completed.
A melted propeller with the screw mechanism missing
A small video that shows the rudder mechanism working
I’ve now had to order a new prop shaft and propeller, hopefully these will arrive in the next few days and I can then get the build finished.
New prop shaft in place, and all electrics and functions are now operational with the motor purring away nicely. I’ve adjusted the distance from the prop to the shaft to reduce Friction and this appears to be working fine.
All functions working nicelyLeak can be seenWeak point found
Now to sit her in some water for leak test.
Floating nicely After 30 minutes we have water ingress
The leak test was going so well, all functions worked well and she was sitting nicely in the water.
Water test
The positive here, is that there is no leak in the front end there was no water present here. All the water was in the rear, however it was not entering via the rudder mechanism or the drive shaft.
I removed the hull from the water, tilted it in such a way for the water to gather at the rear, and dried the underside of the hull. After a few seconds you could see a drip starting to gather at the top of the mount that holds the drive shaft in place. I knew it must have been a slow leak as this took almost 30 minutes to build up, I’ve caught it just before it impeded on any of the electronics.
I’ve now emptied the hull of remaining water, it’s now drying off naturally and I have a plan in place to repair the issue once the hull has fully dried. I’m probably going to use some epoxy resin to seal around the whole drive shaft fin, and then I’ll paint and seal this part again. We will then repeat the trial.
Back in the water the following morning at 07:50 after being sealed with epoxy resin on the hull, let’s leave her alone bobbing around for 30 minutes to see what occurs. It’s not good news….again.
Timelapse over 15 minutes
As I’m impatient, I set up my camera in time lapse mode to see if I could pinpoint where the water was accessing. My suspicions were that the water was coming up the drive shaft however I’m quite pleased that the timelapse shows this is not the case. the water appears to be accessing again from the very base of the hull. This area was sanded to quite a thin tolerance so i suspect, that even with all the sealing, two coats of paint and a coat of varnish there must be tiny holes along the hull. The previous sealing I did cured the issue at the rear, it now appears that I will have to carry on with the resin coating or something similar, along the length of the hull. To make things entirely water tight I’m going to remove what I can internally and also seal inside the hull as well.
One good soaking of polyurethane varnish later…
Three days after all this varnish has dried, I have done another float test and this one was with all equipment on board for an hour…and it was successful. We seem to be dry. I’m now putting the whole boat back together now ready for its maiden voyage at Gorleston boating lake in a weeks time.
Ready to go…
I will do a separate post regarding the maiden voyage and its outcome whether positive or negative shortly after.
Thanks for passing by, as always it’s very much appreciated.
If you like large scale modelling you really need to spend 30 minutes of your time watching this guy at work. His name is Parma, he is a Brazilian chap who has a channel dedicated to large scale modelling and the thing is, he does it all from a small room in his apartment that he has converted into a workshop. He wants to prove that you don’t need a massive work space to create these masterpieces.
I love model making but you look at guys like this and feel totally inadequate. He is a true master of his trade.
In my first foray into this art medium, i chose what were to be two of my first templates. That post can be found here: Faux stained glass painting. This post covers what I will be doing with the second template and a slightly different approach to what I hope to achieve.
I have already traced an outline onto my glass and this time instead of using paint and glue for the lead effect I have used a Pentel permanent marker. I will do the painting on the opposite side of the outline as this will allow me to make amendments to either the outline or the paint without interfering with each other. Because the paint is mixed with glue this can easily be peeled off and re painted. The outline can be amended by using a cotton bud and some IPA. Making changes with the outline and the paint on the same side would require cleaning the whole glass and starting again from scratch. I want to avoid that, so that’s why I’m experimenting.
My second template, drawn with permanent marker
I’ve brought some new Acrylic paints, and will be using slightly more glue in the mix to try and achieve a slightly more translucent effect, to assist with the effect I’m trying to achieve.
As you can see I will be using a box frame for this piece. What I want to do in this example is to put some lights in the frame, but to ensure the light is not too harsh I want to put some opaque tissue immediately behind the glass to act as a diffuser. I’ll get around to this later in this post.
Let’s get painting.
Today i’m using a small light box under the glass so i can get a good idea of how the paint is going down. It also saves me from constantly having to lift the glass to the light to see how it is looking. The glass is very thin and the less it is handled the better.
My light box
Time to paint
Time to dry
When dry I just flip the glass over and go over the out lines once again, this time I’m going to add a small sting of lights into the box for display at night.
Mounted in a box frame. I have hot glued some lights into the inside of the frame
Box frame Better at night
I’m a tad unsure about the lights but I’ll have to wait until it’s dark before I make my mind up about this one. Been fun, I’ve enjoyed it but I’m sitting on the fence regarding the lights, but you never know what’s liable to happen unless you give it a try. I may try the foil trick on this one as I think it may be more effective.
My original three frames i purchased, to use as templates for this particular Art medium
I’m new to this art medium, I don’t really know what I’m doing, but like everything I do on this site, I’m willing to give it a go, always willing to learn. So here we go.
I was watching a program on TV a week or so back and was watching a stained glass window being repaired. I was fascinated with the expertise and commitment these guys put into repairing these pieces of art. I thought to myself that this is something I would love to try but obviously I just don’t have the expertise, space or ability these guys have.
So I had a look around for simpler alternatives and that’s where I found out about Faux stained glass painting. It’s a whole lot easier, less expensive, and I have most of the tools required already.
I’ve attached a video of the technique that I’m interested in, this video has kind of sold the process to me.
I’m going to give this a go now, let’s get started.
My Subject:
I’ve chosen two simple potential templates that were free to download from the internet. As this is my first attempt I’ve chosen a couple of design templates that will be good for a first attempt at this type of art. I’ve chosen a bird and a simple flower.
The two templates I will be choosing from for my first attempt at this medium
What do I need?
Not a lot to be honest, below is the minimal requirements.
Craft PVA glue
Craft clear glue
Paints – I use acrylic, you can use pretty much whatever paint you have around.
An old cheap frame, with glass
Brushes, or sponge applicators, some tape and cleaning materials
And that’s basically all you need.
Ive been out and purchased some supplies including some shadow box frames that were on offer. These will be my guinea pigs for the purpose of this post.
Supplies
I’ve chosen the flower template for my first attempt as it is slightly less involved. I’ve mixed some black acrylic paint in with some PVA as this is what you use to form the black “Lead” type outline. I’ve done some samples on plain A4 paper to perfect the technique as it was coming out all blobby and runny, I think I’ve now perfected how much the nozzle needs opening and now I’m quite happy with the outcome.
Let’s go:
Next i tape the template to the rear of the frames glass, i then clean the front of the glass getting rid of finger prints and anything greasy that might stop the ink bonding to the glass.
Paint/glue applied a bit blobby
Using a steady hand you then just add the glue/paint to the top of the glass following the template underneath. Don’t worry too much if you get some blobs and bubbles, the bubbles can be burst by using a needle and the blobs can be dealt with when the solution dries, because the glue can be easily cut or peeled back. Don’t worry too much about little mistakes, just go with it. Don’t worry about making straight lines perfect as the irregularities just add to the authenticity of the piece. You don’t see perfect lines on old stained glass windows, so don’t worry. I use some small paper tortillons just to remove some small smudges and they work fine.
Glue and black paint mixUsing a Tortillon to clean it up a little
Now we just need to wait for the outline to dry and I’d suggest leaving this for a good eight hours or so.
Whilst I’m waiting for this one to dry I’ve done another small one with just some random geometric shapes. I love the way this one has just spread out and gained a great scruffy edged look. Can’t wait to paint it.
Just the glass, and dried outlinePlaced in its frame to see how it might look.Second trial piece ready to paint
There are many ways to do this technique and the video at the top of the page gives yet another two ways to obtain this outcome. These are my first two attempts and I’m going to try the techniques in Emily Seilhamers videos at a later date. Meanwhile back to my two attempts.
For painting you need some clear school glue and whatever your preferred paints are. I’m using some acrylic paints as I have plenty of them around. Using a tiny spot of paint you then add some glue at a slightly greater ratio than the paint, the thinner it goes on the more translucent it will be, if thicker it will be more opaque. Don’t t worry about paint strokes, it will happen as you are painting with glue. The good thing is if you are not happy with the outcome you a can always use a craft knife and just peel the offending colour off. It’s easy.
Here I’m painting, probably a little to thickly, and I’d probably be better with some glass or enamel paint. Lesson learned.
The good thing is that this paint dries really quick and in a warm room it’s probably dry in just over one hour.
I’ve placed my two attempts in box frames. I’ve got one final thing I want to do before they are finished.
I’m quite happy with my first attempts, there are little mistakes and many things I have learned from trying this medium. I’m not going to make any changes to what I have done as I want to display them as battle scars. You know, a snapshot of what I did at the time and how I have learned from it. The next examples will be better, I have a third one of these box frames and that will incorporate all I have learned from doing these little prints. It will be just like a journey into Faux stained glass in three parts, and they will all be on display.
This project isn’t quite finished yet though, there is one other thing to do. The perfect place to display these items of course is right up against a window just the bare glass, allowing the sun to come through and show off all those lovely colours. However you can also display these pictures within frames and this finishing touch courtesy of Emily Seilhamer, completes that look.
You just need some kitchen foil. Yes you heard correctly. Kitchen foil.
Cut a piece of foil just slightly bigger than the backing cover of your frame. Now scrunch it all up but not too tightly. Just move it around in your hands until it appears to have an even amount of creasing as this is to be come your light refracting layer.
Scrunched up tin foil
Attach this to the frame back and then secure it back in the frame against the glass you have painted, trim and tidy the foil using tape at the rear of the frame.
Now turn it over
Look at the difference with the foil effect
Attempt No:1Attempt No:2
See how that tin foil now reflects all the available light and makes your picture look totally different. The refraction appears to help cover up the brush strokes we discussed earlier, and you can now display your pictures in any area of the house, and any available light will be reflected on to and will enhance your pictures.
On the fire place
I hope you have enjoyed this post, as much as I have putting it together. Thanks as always for passing by. It’s always very much appreciated.
Another production on an iPad from my 2012 era. God knows what I was on at the time as I was doing some right old tripe. But hey ho, it’s done and it covers a particular time of my life so it has to go out there. Not just showing the good stuff (not that I do any good stuff….). I guess if I had a name such as Picasso or Banksy it would be worth an absolute fortune. But I don’t, and it’s not. Enjoy, laugh, critique, slap your forehead. At least it’s got a reaction 👍
Describe the most ambitious DIY project you’ve ever taken on.
I’ll always attempt anything, but when it comes to plumbing or high voltage electricity, that’s when I get the professionals involved.
In my current home the most ambitious DIY has probably been landscaping the garden. We purchased a rickety old house that’s been a constant project since it was brought, back in 2018. So really that could be the most ambitious couldn’t it?
Anyway, the one I’ve enjoyed most is landscaping the garden, not concreted over with no concerns for wildlife, my garden was designed around the needs of the Hedgehogs and birdlife we have that visit throughout the year. They have easy access to the whole garden, a part that is wilded for them to forage in and plenty of food and water stations as well.
One of our visitors
We also have a feral cat “Tabs” who has lived in our garden longer than we have, she gets on with us, we feed her and she has plenty of weather protection in and around the garden, and she tolerates the hedgehogs, so that’s harmonious.
Some colours in our garden
The garden has been a big project taking about 6 years to reach a maturity with flowers, shrubs and trees all planted to create a little bit of the country side in a city urban environment. I am so proud of my garden come spring time when all the new buds are breaking through, and it is a riot of colours come summertime. And it took a lot of planning as it’s a north facing garden.
The gardens the place i’d rather be, it’s like producing art, art that changes on a weekly basis.
You must be logged in to post a comment.