Shooting blind

Strange title. I know. But I had my first experience of it only yesterday. A photographic moment that I’ve never experienced before, but shall be using more of in the future.

My dear wife – totally unaware, as was i

I’m currently in the middle of repairing a Nikon Coolpix L820 16mp bridge camera. The camera has a broken rear LCD screen, and this is the only way of seeing the subject as there is no through the lens viewfinder. Whilst testing its limits and finding out about the faulty screen, I became aware that it sounded as if was working, it was making all the right sounds. So I threw an SD card into the camera to give it a try.

I was just pointing anywhere and pushing the exposure button, taking pictures of everything and nothing, I had no control on settings and functions only the exposure button. Anyway, I did this for a few minutes then transferred the SD card to a reader connected to my iPhone.

Nikon Coolpix L820

Wow, I was impressed with this one picture only, of my dear wife just finishing some lunch. She wasn’t aware I had taken it and neither was i.

This is the magic of photography.

The original was colour, I was so impressed with the sharpness, tones and colours in the picture. It’s not a particularly good picture, just a candid one of someone going about their day, totally innocent and unaware.

I love Black and white pictures, so I quickly converted the colour version via my phone.

I was in two minds as to whether I continued with this repair, as the cost of parts were rising the more I delved into it. This picture alone, changed my mind. I am going to finish the repair as this camera is too good to let go.

And I’m just amazed, that a random photo, that the photographer and the subject were both totally unaware of being taken, has come out so well. (All that has been done is a bit of cropping to align the subject)

The post for the camera referred to herein, will be published shortly.

Thanks for passing by.

Nikon 28-100mm AF Zoom Nikkor Lens G AF-D

What the listing stated:

Nikon Nikkor 28-100mm Zoom Auto Focus Lens F3.5-5.6 G 

It will autofocus with: Df-D1-D1x-D1H-D2-D2x-D2xs-D3-D3x-D3S-D50-D70-D70s-D80-D90-D7000-D100-D200-D300-D300s-D600-D610-D700-D750-D780-D800-D810-D850-D7000-D7100-D7200-D7500 & Fuji S1, S2, S3,S5

This lens will not autofocus with : D40-D40x-D60-D3000-D3100-D3200-D3300-D3500-D3600-D5000-D5100-D5200-D5300-D5500-D5600 as these cameras do not have integrated autofocus motors in their bodies, but it will still work with manual focus and auto exposure as it has a “chip” mount. 

It will also work Nikon 35mm AF film cameras:  F80, F90/90x, F75, F70, F65, F60, F55, F50, F80, F90/90x, F101, F100, F401.

Comes with front / rear lens caps

EBay

Anyone that has followed my recent repair of the camera: Fujifilm Finepix S2 Pro will be aware that I purchased a lens as a test lens for working on some stock that required a Nikon mount. I went cheap and purchased a lens that was so badly affected with lens fungus that it will require a deep clean and some TLC. Anyway, it allowed me to test electrical contacts and all the menus, and that was about it, it served a purpose there, but taking a picture was like looking into a deep fog, it was hopeless. Anyway that lens is now set aside and will become one of those projects to dig into on a long winter evening…or two, or three.

As I have a number of Nikon based cameras needing assessment on the horizon, some with sensor issues, i have made the decision to pay a little more for some quality, from a company called AP photographic who specialise in quality used equipment, a company that is based close to where i used to live down in the south. This Lens has cost me £58:95GBP including postage, a fair but good price for some peace of mind. This post will not be a repair post as there is nothing wrong with this lens, it will be more of an assessment of the lens when used with the Fuji S2 pro i featured in a previous post.


Nikon Nikkor 28-100mm Zoom Auto Focus Lens F3.5-5.6 

I’ve put this post up to show the difference in the pictures taken on the S2 with both the old lens as well as this lens. I think the results will show quite a noticeable contrast and confirm just how restrictive a lens is when it is infected with a fungus problem.

Assessment:

The lens arrived within a couple of days and is in perfect condition. It has a lens cap and bayonet cap so is perfectly protected against dust dirt and damage from foreign objects. And when the lens cover is removed there is another little surprise, a post it note saying “Filter is a free gift” that just happens to be attached to a daylight filter. Nice little touch 👌

Lens is a perfect fit, no aperture ring on it as it is fully automatic, full autofocus. I’m not sure how the flash will work with this lens though when I use the Fuji S2 Pro, as that body works best with a fully closed lens aperture, but I’m sure I’ll be able to work it all out and get it functioning as it should. And I did, i played with the Aperture settings in “A” mode and it works just fine. It’s faultless.

That said on the S2 it not only looks good, it takes good pictures. Compared to the lens I last used this one is crystal clear, not a bit of fungus no aberrations and not a speck of dirt. This is a good lens and will serve me well for the purpose of testing other equipment I have awaiting attention. I think I’ve purchased a good example here.

Result:

I can confirm that the Fuji S2 Pro does not have a thing wrong with it and is working perfectly. All modes, all conditions are performed just as they should be. This lens is gorgeous as it is so clear and has been so well looked after. I believe this whole unit will be the one I wander about with when i go out on my walks. I can’t wait to take some serious photos to post.

A quick comparison fungus lens v clear lens as seen on the camera LCD screen

I took some pictures just randomly around the home setting with the old lens to show how foggy things were with the lens fungus. I have tried to take some more photos of the same locations with the new lens as well to just show how they compare and these can be seen in the pictures grouped below.

Before and after pictures, what a difference the fungus has had on the results.

All these pictures are on an old CF card so it is a bit of a palaver to get them on to new technology, but it is doable, it just takes a little time, and this gadget allows me to load numerous card types even the CF cards direct to my iPhone via a lightning connector. It also has a USB-C connector for other phones. It works really well as you can see in all the pictures in this post.

Multiple media cards direct to my iPhone

And below are a few random photos taken on the S2, it has a good black and white mode but is quite heavy on contrast. Post editing would probably be recommended, but to be honest I really love its moody appearance.

4 random photos in and around the house. And Tabs the feral cat popped by

This camera and this lens have proved fantastic. I know you can get far superior picture sizes and quality on a basic mobile phone, but where the heck is the fun in that? This camera cost me £8:00GBP. Just £8:00. And it is a superb camera that will be going on many trips with me as I just love it and how it looks. I now know it intimately after reading up on it and testing it, and cannot wait to put that knowledge to use.

Cameras are better than mobile phones. Old ones like this are fun, and an absolute privilege to use. It’s not all about the Megapixels, just remember these old cameras were the ones taking high quality professional pictures back in their day. Just because time moves on, and just like an elderly old lady or gentleman, they should not be discarded because they no longer serve a purpose. Respect the older technology, learn from it and you will ultimately become a wiser person yourself. Oldies rule! Never forget it. 👊

Thank you so much for passing by. It’s always very much appreciated.

Fujifilm Finepix S2 Pro

What the listing stated:

ALL ITEMS IN THIS LISTING ARE FAULTY 
FAULTS MAY VARY BETWEENS ITEMS

SOLD AS IS 

NO RETURNS

EBay

I’ve purchased three cameras as a job lot in an auction. All of them have issues but the issues have not been clarified. This is very much a “Suck it and see” auction where I get what I’m given. I’ve paid £24:22GBP for all three and that includes free postage. I’ve purchased from this seller before who is a bonafide Camera business based in South Wales. He has no time for faulty items though, quick in and out is his way of working, no time to fix stuff. I’ve got three good cameras in this bundle and this works out at just about £8:00GBP per camera. And where can you get cameras like this for those prices nowadays.

I’ve just read a blog where a guy had one of these cameras from new, and in 2002 he had paid £1550.00GBP for this camera. Wow, and here i am 23 years later paying the grand total of £8:00GBP for one. Even if I don’t get it working, I’m happy with that.

Now this particular camera had two issues in its lifetime that caused concern, and one of them meant it was pretty much game over, and that one was the CCD issue that used to plague this range of cameras. Fuji released a whole bunch of these cameras with a faulty CCD that had to be fixed under a recall. They built sufficient replacement CCDs to cover the recall and that was about it. There were no remaining CCDs left and at that point what was left had become as rare as hens teeth. If you suddenly developed that faulty a later date, then tough…you were stuffed.

Serial numbers affecting CCD problems are listed below:

Model Serial Number Range 

FinePix S2 Pro 31A127**~31A143** 

32A000**~32A039** 

33A000**~33A007** 

34A000**~34A004**

Fujifilm

The second issue was with a batch of these models that had a “bad” resistor in the power circuit that prevented lock up if there was a power spike, if this failed then the camera just stopped and you were stuck. There was another recall on the second issue but there is probably a lot of cameras out there that again weren’t part of this recall. And I guess owners were pretty fed up of recalls at this point and were off loading their equipment as quick as they could.

The serial numbers regarding the lock up problem are listed below:

Between serial numbers 24L00441 and 24L00680
Between serial numbers 24L01057 and 24L01256
Between serial numbers 24L01553 and 24L01863
Between serial numbers 24L10257 and 24L10608

Fujifilm

My camera serial number

Above you can see the serial number for my camera. Thankfully my number falls outside the range of any of the cameras inflicted with either problem, so it’s fair to say (Fingers crossed 🤞) that I shouldn’t suffer with any of the known issues with this unit. In layman’s terms I think i may well have dodged a bullet here.

I did speak to the seller regarding the fault on this camera and he stated it was just a general error code on the top screen. There is a general error that arises occasionally regarding certain lenses where they have to be locked on their minimum aperture for the camera to work properly, however I’ve not attached a lens yet so this cannot be confirmed.

Here’s some history:

The Fujifilm FinePix S2 Pro is an interchangeable lens digital single-lens reflex camera introduced in January 2002. It is based on a Nikon F80 (N80 in the U.S.) film camera body that was modified by Fujifilm to include its own proprietary image sensor and electronics. Because of the Nikon body, it has a Nikon AF lens mount and so can use most lenses made for Nikon 35 mm cameras. It is autofocusing, with an electronically controlled focal plane shutter with speeds from 30 sec. to 1/4000 sec., built-in exposure metering and pop-up flash. Its ISO film speed equivalents range from 100 – 1600. The S2 Pro also has sound recording capability. The camera is no longer in production, having been superseded by the Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro in February 2004.

Aside from the Nikon lens mount, the camera’s principal distinction is its 6.17 megapixel photo sensor. Known as the Super CCD, it is unique in having its photodiodes oriented diagonally rather than horizontally and vertically as in all other DSLR cameras. This allows the use of a sophisticated interpolation system that produces an output image equivalent to 12.1 megapixels. The apparent resolution of images in this interpolated mode lies somewhere between 6.17 megapixels and the 12.1 megapixel interpolated output.

A huge number of these cameras were built using a Sony sourced defective CCD that was subject to a recall by Fuji. The recall ended when the stock of these replacement CCD’s was depleted. There is word that no other stockpiles exist of this Super HAD CCD, making these cameras that are found with the purple or black tinted image problems extinct, only usable for parts. The Fuji F700 used a similar defective HAD CCD, but in 3.1/6.2Mp size. That camera has met a similar fate.

Wikipedia

So let’s hope that we can get some pictures out of this unit. We just have to wait and see what arrives.

Assessment:

Well the camera has now arrived, and I must say it is in an absolutely beautiful condition. Cosmetically there isn’t a scrape or scratch, all screens are scuff free and it looks as if this unit has been well cared for. It just needs a wipe over to clean. The package is just the camera body with no extras such as a body aperture cover or neck strap, but who’s worried about that, they can be procured at a later date.

These units are quite power hungry requiring a total of six batteries. 4 AA cells go in the base and two Lithium CR123A batteries go in the grip. These batteries work in unison, one set handling the basic camera functions whilst the other deals with the capture and processing of images. It’s a strange affair, loosely based around the same setup that was originally on their film based camera counterparts.

I’ve had to order the lithium batteries, however I can still get displays and Information using just the AA batteries in the base, basically it is semi functional in this situation.

The lens mount is a standard Nikon F mount, I’m going to have to search through my equipment to see if I have such a lens, I suspect I don’t, so I may well have to purchase a small lens purely for test purposes. I have some other Nikon repairs in the queue, so a lens to have for test purposes wouldn’t really go amiss.

The unit takes either a CF card type II or a Smart-media card (Max size of 2Gb on both) that is located behind a hinged section on the rear of the camera, these work fine and have no bent pins.

Media card ports at the rear

With batteries in place I get the full range of menus, and nothing comes across as suspect at all at this stage in the assessment.

The top menu – no lens attached to test

The top menu by the exposure button is the only “F” indication showing, I have no lens attached so this might be the reasoning for that, but if I do put the menu into manual mode I get the full range of shutter speeds and can even operate the shutter, the shutter seems to be working at all selected speeds with no issues as far as I can see.

Some of the shutter speeds available in manual mode

All other menus are available and I’m even able to format the CF card via the cameras menu. The picture you see on the screen was taken on another camera. It wiped fine so no issues here.

Various menus and the screen after a format was completed through the cameras menu controls

The camera seems to be working with no apparent communication issues as yet. When you try to use the flash it even informs you that you need to insert the correct batteries to test. As I’m awaiting the CR123A batteries I won’t be able to test the flash functionality until they arrive.

No CR123A batteries installed? – You can’t use the flash

As I have stated the testing can only go so far until I have the missing items in my possession, for me that is the two missing batteries and a suitable lens. I’m currently in the process of procuring both. Physically there is nothing wrong with this camera after spending a good couple of hours going over it. I’m quite comfortable with it and believe it could be a lens communication error or just a failure to read the instructions properly by the previous owner. All I need now is that lens. I’ll let you know what occurs in the repair section.

Repair:

To be quite honest it’s not really been a repair, it’s been more of a “pre flight check” to collar a phrase, going through all of the cameras capabilities and ensuring that they are all functioning correctly. As the camera was listed as faulty, and the fault was not identified, I have had to do many hours of testing and Investigation to get to this point.

I’ve done a bit of shopping and managed to buy a nice little lens from the Southern hospice group. Always happy to help a charity and secured this at a good price of £15:50GBP, and that includes the postage, for a Sigma 28-200 f/3.8-5.6 Ø72 Zoom Lens Nikon F Mount. There looks like a bit of fungus on the outermost optic, however I can always clean this if it’s too bad. If not I’ll just leave as is for the moment and keep it vacuum bagged between uses, I can always do a separate post on cleaning up fungus in a lens at a later date. (I have done a basic fungus clean in the past : Canon EF lens 35-80mm)

My new – old test lens

I wasn’t looking at spending too much here, as I only wanted a lens to test a number of Nikon repairs I have upcoming as well as this S2 Pro. This lens will fit that role perfectly, and be added to my collection of other lenses that I have that allows me to test a range of different camera products. I have also purchased an “F” mount body cover for the camera to protect the unit when there isn’t a lens attached to it.

The two CR123A batteries have arrived and have been placed in the handle grip. The warning that was there before the batteries were installed (see picture above) has disappeared and when placed in manual mode the flash fires just perfectly, no issues here.

The Lens has arrived. Good point is that it fits fine and looks good, and all electrical contacts are good. Bad point is it has severe fungus throughout, and is just like looking through a fog.

I will do a separate post on cleaning this problem up in a later post. However I’m not overly worried at this point, I paid a very low price so it was to be expected, I’m not complaining to the seller who was a Hospice, they need the money and I can fix it so there really is no problem.

The excellent news is that the lens does exactly what it should. The camera indications are good, all working exactly as expected . However the pictures via the screen are extremely hazy due to the fungus infection on the lens. There are no black or purple casts on the pictures so I am quite happy that we haven’t inherited the dreaded CCD issue discussed earlier in this post.

If I use the lens wide open and pop the camera into auto mode I do get an “ERR33” code and that is a communication issue between the lens and the camera. As I have stated earlier in this post, you have to have the lens set at its lowest aperture and locked for the error code to go. Fortunately this lens allows you to lock the aperture and once this is done the camera takes over the exposure when it is working in automatic mode. So as I also stated earlier, it appears the seller was probably not aware of this requirement/issue.

Result:

We have a fantastic working camera, it does all it was produced to do, it has its little quirks and oddities, but being familiar with these cameras and at least having some knowledge and awareness of how they operate is always a wise thing. Read the instructions and don’t just throw them in the drawer until you eventually sell the camera on as a damaged item, when in fact you were just lacking the knowledge on how it operates in the first place. Instruction manuals are good, they serve a purpose. Knowledge is king.

The complete camera with lens

This camera cost me £8:00GBP. That is a superb price for a camera of this quality even though it is now 23 years old. It has a lot of life left in it, and I can’t wait to get it out and give it a real test.

It’s a little beauty – And the lens that needs attention

So in theory I’m confident and happy that this camera is now in a fully operational order, it’s needed a clean, it’s needed a lot of research to find out how it works, and I’ve also downloaded the operating instructions and repair pack should they be required.

It’s taking pictures and storing them. It’s just the lens at the moment isn’t performing at its best due to its fungus on the optics issue. I’m keeping the pictures stored on the card to compare them with the new pictures that will be taken once I have another lens to use.

Once the lens clean up is complete, if I ever get around to it, I will link it through this post.

Edit:

As 12/7/25 I have purchased a newer higher quality lens without any of the above issues to be able to get some instantaneous results, and as I have about seven other Nikon cameras requiring testing, some with sensor issues, it was wise to invest in a better quality lens. I have purchased a Nikon 28-100mm AF Zoom Nikkor Lens G AF-d, in perfect condition and the post regarding it can be found here: Nikon 28-100mm AF Zoom Nikkor Lens G AF-D

A newer – old lens, much superior quality

As previously stated I will add photos in this post once the new lens arrives, to show the difference from the fungus infected lens to a decent lens. The old lens is still a work in progress and I will post about it again as a separate post once the clean up is complete. It will probably be a job completed once the long winter nights are back in situ.

Below are comparison photos between the old lens with fungal issues and this new lens:

It’s just typical for me to manage to make another post from an issue that has arisen from fixing a different item. But isn’t that life? Continuous improvement is a factor we come across on an almost daily basis, and if you deal with old items as much as I do, then there is always something else that needs repairing, something that requires your attention and I just love that. The ability to improve or make something better, gives such a feeling of achievement and accomplishment, and total satisfaction. And that’s why I write this drivel. It’s for me, it’s what this blog was originally set up for. It’s my journal of what I do.

Many thanks for following this post. You know it is always very much appreciated.

Something to be getting on with..

The batch of cameras I purchased the other day, all old SLRs / DSLRs have now arrived… with a bonus.

I was expecting 10 cameras but I’ve trumped that with 12 and a lot of spares as well. The guy I purchased the Nikons from has thrown in two more D70 as spares, with loads more spare parts. He was having a clear out so I guess he’s funneled that stock my way…thanks old chap.

So I have received today

  • One Canon 5 SLR – stuck mirror, missing some small Connection covers and like a lot of these old cameras has a sticky rubber covering that was well known back In the day.
  • One Canon EOS 50E – damaged curtain, faulty lock and again sticky.
  • One Canon EOS 1000F – cosmetically sound no other visible issues.
  • One Canon EOS Elan 2 – cosmetically sound, just sticky.
  • Two Nikon D70S DSLR – missing battery covers and some other small accessory covers, both sticky.
  • Six Nikon D70 DSLR – all missing battery covers, or other accessory covers, one missing a CF card reader and all sticky.
  • And two sizeable bags of D70/D70s spares
And then there were 12

I’ll be starting with a good clean to get rid of that stickiness and then I’ll power each up individually to see what other issues lie in wait. I’m hopeful I can get most of them up and running, I’m confident that the majority of the DSLRs will be repairable.

I’ll feature the repairs once I’m in a position to donate the time to them. I’m a busy boy at the moment what with work and the wife’s growing list of things that need doing around the house.

More stock

I’ve spent the grand total of £91 GBP on more damaged/faulty stock today, I now have enough stuff to be working on to keep me busy for months.

On top of the 6 Canon cameras I purchased last week I now have a further 4 Canon film cameras ( Eos Elan 2, 50E, 1000fn and an Eos 5) I’ve also got two faulty EF lenses to test the old Canons with, these will also get the repair treatment.

I’ve also purchased four Nikon D70 and 2 Nikon D70S units all needing the repair treatment, I’ve even blagged some spare parts here as well so overall it’s been quite a good days shopping.

Nikon Coolpix L22

Circa 2010

Inspection

Now these small digital units are well known for having faulty battery door mechanisms and this example is no different. The only real way to fix this issue is by obtaining a replacement fascia with the lock mechanism in place or source a temporary fix that will get us by. The lens seems to have an autofocus issue, again this is a common fault with these kind of units. I may dismantle the lens assembly, clean and lubricate. The electronics seem fine, a factory reset may be in order. I’ve used the strap and case from a damaged L22 to further compliment this unit. Recycle that’s the theme.

The camera was received with the information that the auto focus was not working and that the battery door was broken causing the batteries to fall out, also the batteries had to be full for the camera to work. Let’s take each issue one at a time.

The autofocus. This camera has numerous settings and one of those is smart auto that sometimes goes into “panic” and causes the unit to show errors especially as the battery starts to drain due to the camera constantly trying to focus on something that is not there. Move the setting to std autofocus and the camera is not so overwhelmed with information and is more willing to cooperate. Before I did this though I reset back to factory settings, I have then spent over an hour taking pictures of all sizes using all settings with no issues. I’m assuming the issue of autofocus was never really an issue, it’s basically back to basics as in computer terms “turn it off and on again”. After a reset of course.

Battery door. This is a known design issue with these early Coolpix cameras, I don’t know why Nikon didn’t address them back when they were produced. As these were made back in 2010 when digital cameras world wide were at their peak with something like 21 million units being produced, I suspect a recall would have cost a fortune. That said 12 years down the line it explains now why items like this have become disposable and are now ending up wrongly in landfill. The battery door has two points of contact where the door actually locks. One at the very edge of the body is the main culprit and when this goes batteries will fall out. The second catch relates to a small moveable switch in the middle of the door that has to be moved to open the battery compartment. If this alone is broken as is the one on my unit, then the battery’s will stay put temporarily until the user starts moving the camera around and then the door will pop and the batteries will exit the camera. As these catches form part of the front fascia there is really only two options available. Option one: purchase a damaged donor camera, make the repair and use the remainder as parts. Option two: Make a repair that is not particularly aesthetically pleasing but allows further use of a camera that is in all other aspects working perfectly. And we save it from landfill for a while longer keeping to this sites aims of recycling. I’m going to be looking at option two and will expand on what I intend to do later in this piece.

Broken tab middle of battery flap

Battery life. These units were ploughed out en masse before rechargeable batteries had a proved and viable existence. If you use bog standard cheap old batteries on these cameras using autofocus, flash and god knows whatever then prepare to replace those batteries quite frequently. Use batteries that have heavy duty not pound shop specials and here is why. Today I tried two brand new cheap batteries, the camera wouldn’t turn on and all I could hear was a clicking sound. I changed the batteries for two new high output ones and the camera operated fine, rather flummoxed with this I decided to get the multimeter out and have a check, the cheap batteries had a charge of just over one volt, about 30% less than expected and in theory it was dead. The better battery was holding one point five volts so in that respect it was working as it should. Moral of this story is don’t use cheap batteries on items that demand more such as photographic equipment.

Options for securing the battery door

Cheapest options, elastic band, piece of tape does the job, life extended. Hey presto! I have seen many fixes, Velcro tape – it works, small catches fitted as an afterthought- they work, they are all good ideas that extend the life of the product, an item that would normally just be flung in the bin as soon as the issue developed. The important thing here is that there is little value in this product now so don’t go over engineering things and looking at expensive solutions that will yield no long term benefits. Keep it simple and pass the solution on. Try and use items that you have around you, recycle and reuse that’s the purpose of this site.

Let’s add a nice strap and pouch from a donor camera

I like the idea of a small 3 inch metal strip and a thumb screw that fastens into the tripod hole. I may well make this up to show you what can be done, I have some plate laying around and a number of screws so that one is a starter for me. I will also look at one of the other examples mentioned above as a comparison. If I ever get around to making this I’ll update this post in the future. For the meantime why use a sledgehammer to crack a walnut, the elastic band option is more than suitable for this camera. I’m passing it onto my nephew, he’s new to photography and whilst he is deciding if he likes photography or not, why not experiment and give this little unit a few extra years of innocent experimentation 👍

Nikon Coolpix L27

Circa 2013

Inspection

The problem with this camera is that it had a focus issue and currently it is dead electrically. Quite looking forward to getting into this one as it maybe quite a simple fix. That said, it could be that the whole internal circuit needs replacing which will mean the camera could then be added to my ever growing spare parts collection.

On receipt this camera cosmetically is in excellent condition. Even the normally broken battery door catches are in fine condition on this model. The unit is very dead though and it looks as if a battery has leaked inside causing some corrosion. I suspect some of that leakage may have travelled a little further as it seems the wide/telephoto switch on top feels a little rough when it should be a smoother movement. I’m going to have to get inside this one and have a look around.

Battery leakage evident

I’m afraid it’s disappointment with this unit. The battery leakage is so severe it has pretty much dissolved a number of components, ruined the board tracking in a number of places and corroded the wide/telephoto switch beyond use. The trusty multimeter confirms that the main circuit board is about as much use as a chocolate fire poker – useless. I’m afraid this unit is resigned to use as a spares donor for another day.

Severe corrosion from batteries evident

As you can see above, the batteries have been allowed to leak causing a catastrophic amount of damage to the circuitry. I have cleaned tested used a specific cleaning solution and scrubbed the circuit to no avail. My friendly multimeter has confirmed the circuit is beyond economical repair.

Wide/Telephoto switch totally corroded

I have stated in earlier posts that there needs to be a greater awareness of the frailties of cheap batteries. There is a particular brand I know of that has adopted the name of a large photographic company I used to work for, and to be blunt their batteries are utter crap. They start to leak very soon after their demise and the acid/alkaline leaks everywhere, they should be avoided at all costs and I very much suspect this specific case is due to such advice being ignored. High use items such as cameras require an adequate battery, please do not cut corners here as it is a false expenditure.

The saving grace from this unit is that I have a few items that will be put to use at a later date. The body shell with its intact battery locking mechanism will probably earn me more than the whole camera cost originally and that will still leave me more as spare parts. It’s just a shame that cost cutting on the power supply has damaged so much of this unit. I cannot impress on you enough, do not use cheap batteries, you will potentially pay the price of permanent damage if you do.

I have had to seriously clean and decontaminate my work board due to the immense amount of contamination that came from this unit, I’m glad I wore protective gloves whilst attempting to clean this unit.

What I have managed to salvage

I have salvaged a complete body shell with working battery locking door, a lens focusing unit, a rear screen and holder, a number of screws, a flash unit cover and a 330v 100uf photo flash capacitor. As well as a nice leather case.

Unfortunately not every unit is salvageable, however we have parts to assure the next unit may not go to waste. A healthy spares store is always welcome and all I can say is…. Onwards and upwards, bring forward the next repair.