Ventured off to the East coast for a few days.. just arrived in Great Yarmouth
We’ve taken a drive up the A47 today and are currently residing in Great Yarmouth for the night. Tomorrow we move next door for a few days to Hopton on sea for a little rest and recuperation.
We arrived here just as the sun was setting, so just the one picture to be cracking on with.
Hoping for a little stress free time away from it all as everything has been just a bit too full on lately.
Take care. Stay safe. Be happy 😆
Just got in from work, followed this bank of fog home. Grabbed a quick picture.
Just got in from work. Chased this fog all the way home and just had to get a photo.
Have a safe and happy day.
A small piece regarding the Canon “A” series camera range. Development and technological advancement.
As i seem to be purchasing a number of the old “A” type camera bodies for repair, I have now decided to add the full range of “A” type cameras to my collection. I’m a tad biased as I have used Canon cameras right from the very start of my photographic education, in fact the first one i used was an A1 variant. I’ve put together the following piece to explain why these cameras were so popular, and to highlight their technological advancement along the way, the technology that influenced other manufacturers to up their game and give the consumer just what they wanted out of a camera, options and greater control.
The Canon A-series of 35mm SLR cameras, produced from the mid-1970s through to the early 1980s, represents one of the most influential periods in Canon’s film-camera history. It began with the groundbreaking Canon AE-1 in 1976, a camera that reshaped the industry by integrating a microprocessor – the first mass-market SLR to do so. This innovation allowed Canon to simplify mechanical complexity and reduce manufacturing costs whilst offering features previously found only in higher-end professional bodies. The AE-1’s shutter-priority auto-exposure, bright viewfinder, and strong reliability made it both approachable for beginners and capable enough for enthusiasts, turning it into one of the best-selling SLRs of all time.
Canon quickly expanded the lineup to address different types of photographers and to test new electronics-driven features. The AT-1 provided a more affordable, all-manual alternative, whilst the AV-1 (1979) offered aperture-priority automation, catering to photographers who preferred creative control over depth of field. The flagship A-1 (1978) pushed the boundaries even further – it became the world’s first SLR to offer full programmed auto-exposure, alongside shutter priority, aperture priority, and manual modes. This versatility foreshadowed the automation and electronic sophistication that would dominate future camera generations.
In the early 1980s, Canon introduced the AE-1 Program, refining the original AE-1 with a more advanced program mode and improved ergonomics. The final notable entry, the AL-1, included an innovative Focus Assist system that used contrast-detection indicators to help users achieve sharp focus – an early technological step toward the autofocus systems that would soon reshape the industry.
Collectively, the Canon A-series brought electronic control, affordability, and ease of use into the mainstream, playing a key role in shifting photography toward the automated, electronically driven era. Decades later, these cameras remain admired for their durability, classic design, and the satisfying, hands-on shooting experience they continue to provide.
At the time of writing, i have in my possession three of the six variants that were produced, and presently I am scouring the sales platforms to acquire suitable candidates for the remaining parts of this collection, to work on. I will update via this site as and when i have another one of this series to feature in a post. My current collection consists of the cameras below marked with an asterisk:
I would like to obtain a special mount for this series of cameras so i can display them as a collective sample of this wonderful range. They will all of course, all be fully usable, not museum pieces.
Thanks for passing by. Always appreciated.
I love my beans, just don’t stand too close to me at the end of the day…
What are your family’s top 3 favorite meals?
There are just two of us in this house, and I’m going to list the top three meals after I have just had a discussion with my wife, whilst in bed, having an early morning cuppa. It’s cold outside, the heating is on and there is a nice sunny glow entering the window whilst everything outside has a crisp white coating of frost.
My wife’s choices are simple, and I didn’t even have to ask her first choice as it’s ingrained in my memory banks. Whenever we go out if there is one meal on the menu, I know it will be ordered and that meal is Ham, egg and chips. She adores it. Her second favourite is Lamb and her third is traditional home made rice pudding.
For me I’m also very simplistic. My favourite go to is quite simply Baked beans on toast, I may glamourise it a bit by adding a sprinkling of cheese, but plain old beans on toast is my favourite. Followed closely by sausage and mashed potato that may or may not also contain baked beans, (there’s a trend emerging here!) and last but not least, probably due to my living in the East Midlands, I do love a good tasty Curry, not one of those blisteringly hot ones, and preferably chicken based. (No baked beans here though!)
So that’s it really, taking the wife and I out for dinner is never an expensive outing as we both have quite “cheap” tastes. Good food doesn’t need to be expensive poncey creations, good old fashioned wholesome food is probably the go to food for the majority of people wandering around this bit of rock floating in outer space.
Have a good meal, take care and stay safe. Keep warm!
Another entry level camera, unloved, made good
Here I have another basic, entry level camera made by Canon. Produced around 1999? this camera is probably around 26 years old. These cameras don’t have the traditional identification number printed within the film spool holder that the older cameras had, hence the precise manufacturing date is difficult to confirm.
This is a camera passed onto me by a good friend and professional photographer, Jon, as can be seen in this post: Cameras…i need more!
Here’s a little information about this camera:
The EOS 3000 is an autofocus SLR for 35mm film introduced by Canon in 1999. It was sold as the EOS 88 in Asia. (It was not sold in the US.) The pentamirror viewfinder and manually-activated popup flash helped keep this a lower-cost model; but a full range of autoexposure modes were included, including off-the-film flash exposure setting. Film transport is motorized and the camera requires two 3-volt CR123 lithium batteries to operate.
A compact, lightweight, low-priced SLR camera. Successor to the EOS5000, but with greatly expanded basic functions. The camera incorporates the Mode Dial and most other basic features of the EOS Kiss/EOS REBEL XS/EOS500 and includes six-zone evaluative metering linked to three focusing points. In addition, the flash is linked to the measurement point so that during shooting the flash out-put level is constantly adjusted for optimum exposure control. For reasons of cost, the flash unit is manual pop-up/retractable head type. The EOS3000 is compatible with system accessories for the Kiss and New Kiss. The high-quality design has a feel of genuine elegance.
Canon/ Camera-wiki.org
This camera was pitched at a low cost to attract people into photography, and to encourage those who were just hobbyists to upgrade to something more than the traditional point and shoots/disposables available at the time.
There is not a lot wrong with this camera as far as I can see, let’s have a look and do some tests.
It has a grip that’s starting to develop the sticky issue so that will need cleaning. The mirror and prism are dusty and will need a cleaning.
Overall the condition is very good, again this was a training camera, and seems to have had a quite low usage, as there is no scratches or marks. And only one dink as such. That dink happens to be the right hand strap holder that has been bent down to a point where the rear case does not open completely, it restricts its full movement.
Top and bottom of camera look fine, no bleed on the LCD screen that is always a good sign
Battery chamber is clean and there is no contamination. This camera takes two 3v Lithium CR123A batteries. Let’s put two in to see if we have any life.
With the batteries installed we have a good display on the screen with no pixelation and it’s nice and clear. I install a roll of test film to see what happens. This camera winds the whole film onto the take up spool and winds back one exposure at a time. The take up when the door is closed works perfectly.
I then operate the shutter, to fire off the 14 exposures, all viewfinder indicators are good, with my 28-90 EF lens attached it focuses well and fires well. When the last exposure has been taken the film rewinds as expected with no issues. In reality the camera is working very well with no internal issues.
First the dirty stuff. Let’s get that goo off of the sticky grip. I use my IPA and lint free cloth method that I posted about in a previous post here: Sticky, Rubber camera grips. This one is actually worse than I thought and has taken four applications to remove the deterioration on the grip. It feels a lot more pleasant though now that it is done.
The issue with the strap lug restricting the door movement. Quite simply, a gentle movement with a pair of pliers was all that was required. Gently does it as these parts are brittle and easily broken. Don’t over do it, give up when it looks right.
I’ve checked the film pressure pad and this is fine, there are no sharp ridges and the light seals are good. I don’t expect them to be bad as in theory they are not that old, they are in a good healthy condition.
I have cleaned the prism and the mirror with a swab and they are now fine. Using a B setting I have opened the mirror and curtain and used some compressed air to clean throughout. A brush blower was used with the curtain closed to clean around the film spool area and back plate. A quick final blow of the mirror and the aperture is then sealed with a cap to insure no further dirt and dust gets into the internal parts of the camera.
The final action is to use some cockpit polish to finish off the exterior of the camera.
I’ve cleaned the exterior and used some ceramic cockpit polish to finish it off, I must admit it’s looking very good.
Here I have yet another nice little camera packed with features that will make a great camera for someone to learn the basics of traditional photography with. However, it’s remaining in my collection for the while.
It’s yet another camera that I need to test, another one that needs to have a film put through it for its final test, however I am 100% confident of it’s capabilities and the fact that it operates just fine and all its settings, buttons and controls are doing exactly what they should. When I do get to put a film through, I will link to it here.
Another successful restoration and return to use of another old camera that had been put to one side. Not that this one really required a lot of attention, just a bit of servicing and tlc.
Thanks for passing by. It’s always very much appreciated
A nice entry level camera, from the mid 90s, now back in working order
Here I have a very basic, entry level camera made by Canon. Produced between 1996-9 this camera is currently between 26 – 29 years old. These cameras don’t have the traditional identification number printed within the film spool holder that the older cameras had, hence the precise manufacturing date is difficult to confirm.
This is a camera passed onto me by a good friend and professional photographer, Jon, as can be seen in this post: Cameras…i need more!
I believe this camera was previously used by a large photographic organisation, to teach staff and students wishing to learn traditional 35mm film photography techniques. It was a training camera, at entry level specs.
It is a very good example of this model of camera, and despite its simplicity, low cost appearance and feel, it is in a very good condition cosmetically.
Here’s a little information about this camera:
The Canon EOS 500N is also known as the EOS Rebel G in the Americas or the New EOS Kiss in Japan. Sometimes it’s referred to as the EOS Kiss 2 as it followed the release of the EOS Kiss in Japan. This camera was released in 1996 and replaced the EOS 500. The Japanese version of the camera had the date back as standard. Its successor was the EOS-300 / REBEL2000 / Kiss III, released in 1999.
The body of the Rebel G is plastic, weighing 370 g (13 oz). The only colors available were black or a mix of silver and black. The Rebel G has an EF lens mount making it compatible with any EF lens. The viewfinder offers a 0.7x magnification, 90% coverage, center auto focus, wide auto focus and many more. The Rebel G shooting modes consisted of 6 basic modes, full auto, portrait, landscape, macro, sports and night scene. It also has 5 advanced modes, P, Av, Tv, M, A-DEP. These modes would continue on in the Rebel G series. The camera features a built in flash, and can shoot at 1 fps. The fastest shutter speed with flash was measured at 1/90 of a second.
A few new features include compatibility with ETTL type flash. It still has the same 1/90 of a sec sync speed of the previous model, but when equipped with a Canon Speedlight such as the 380EX, 220EX it can be used at 1/2000 of a sec. Focus has improved a bit as as a AF assist light is now available. Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) can be use from -2 to ++2 in 1/2 stop increments. The command dial now has an easier to access night scene mode. The body is able to use the BP-8 vertical grip that can also accept four AA batteries.
Camera-Wiki.org / Wikipedia
As Stated, this camera is in a good cosmetic condition with no sign of dents, dinks or wear. Considering this was a camera used in training I can only presume the students were extremely careful and respectful, or it was lightly used. Having worked with some of these students myself, i very much suspect, it’s more than likely going to be the latter option.
There is another such unit I have of this very same camera however that is damaged with a faulty screen that requires replacement and that will be dealt with in a future post. Meanwhile, let’s get back to this one.
There is an old ownership sticker on the rear and this is one of those old vinyl type ones that will be able to be removed, but just may take a little while, as they are brittle and break off into lots of little pieces that go everywhere.
The battery chamber is clean and there are no signs of contamination. The screen is clear and does not show any bleed, though I haven’t powered it up just yet.
The film chamber, back pressure plate and shutter curtain all appear to be in good order. Again I will further test this when I put some batteries in and run a dummy film to check transport.
The unit is quite grubby and dusty, the mirror is dirty and the prism is as well. initially all looks good. Batteries, and the dummy film might tell us something different.
Let’s get that sticker off the rear, a little soak in IPA to soften things up, and then using a small plastic modelling spatula to gently get under the label, I was able to remove the sticker relatively easily. If I’d used the metallic option I may well have scratched the casing. I’m happy that this option has worked well for me. A final clean at the end with some car cockpit cleaner should bring the detail out nicely.
Let’s get some power in, and fire this unit up. It takes two CR123A 3v lithium batteries.
Batteries in, and everything lights up, all menus function and as stated earlier their is no bleed from the LCD screen.
I load the film in and it instantly winds the whole film on to the take up spool. Here on the display, you can see that this roll is 24 exp and it has wound fully on to the take up spool. I fire off these 24 exposures to check the shutter and that fires fine, film transport also works well and the final rewind of the film at the end also works. In a nutshell, this camera works!
I clean the prism and the mirror with a soft swab and you can just see the dust and dirt lift. A final brush over with a bulb blower completes this task. The internals are now clean.
It just needs a very thorough exterior clean and polish.
I’ve cleaned the exterior and used some ceramic cockpit polish to finish it off, I must admit it’s looking very good.
Here I have a nice little camera packed with features that will make a great camera for someone to learn the basics of traditional photography with. However, it’s remaining in my collection for the while.
I’ve cleaned the camera throughout and used compressed air to finish the clean prior to sealing it from the elements. It’s yet another camera that I need to test, another one that needs to have a film put through it for its final test, however I am 100% confident of it’s capabilities and the fact that it operates just fine and all its settings, buttons and controls are doing exactly what they should. When I do get to put a film through, I will link to it here.
Another successful restoration and return to use of another old camera that had been put to one side. Not that this one really required a lot of attention, just a bit of servicing and tlc.
Thanks for passing by. It’s always very much appreciated.
Cleaning, repair and maintenance of an old Canon EOS 30 35mm SLR
I’m calling this camera my EOS Dirty, it really is suffering a bad case of the sticky rubber syndrome that was widely experienced on cameras of this era, where the Vulcanised rubber used in its construction, had a falling out with its own internal polymers, and they then decided to part company. Creating a sticky mess. This camera is currently 25 years old, originally manufactured in the year 2000.
That said, it’s a lovely camera with a lot of features, this was pretty much one of the last 35mm cameras that Canon produced, and they threw a lot of R&D into these units prior to producing its “D” Digital offering, hence it was packed with lots of pre “D” technology. It has “Eye” control, the Eye Control focusing feature makes selective focusing quicker for many. It uses IR to detect eye movements to determine focusing areas. Up to 5 eye presets can be stored for different users. I wonder if that still works?
Here is some information, about this camera:
The EOS 30 (or Elan 7 / Elan 7e / EOS 7 / EOS 33 in different global markets) is a Canon autofocus 35mm SLR camera that uses the Canon EF lens mount. The camera was introduced in 2000.
There are three main auto focusing modes. Automatic, manual selection focusing, and Eye Control (EOS 30, EOS Elan 7E). It was given the 7 name because it has 7 auto focus points in manual selection mode. The Eye Control focusing feature makes selective focusing quicker for many. It uses IR to detect eye movements to determine focusing areas. Up to 5 eye presets can be stored for different users. Some users with corrective lenses may experience problems using this feature. The shutter speed ranges from 30 sec. to 1/4000 sec. in 1/2-stop increments with bulb. X-sync at 1/125 sec.
Metering modes use a TTL max. aperture metering with a 35-zone silicon photocell. The included modes are evaluative, partial and center-weighted averaging metering. The measurement range is from 1 to 20 EV (at 20-degree with 50mm f/1.4 lens, at ISO 100). The ISO can be set automatically with DX-coded film at ISO 25 to 5000. Exposure compensation can be adjusted from +/-2 stops in 1/2-steps.
Exposure modes available include Program mode, shutter priority, aperture priority, Depth-of-field, Auto, scene modes with (Portrait, Landscape, Close-up, Sports, Night Scene), manual exposure and bulb mode. Flash exposure includes modes for E-TTL, A-TTL and TTL program flash modes. The motor drive is capable of up to 4 fps. The finder has dioptre adjustments built-in with settings from -2.5 to +0.5 dpt. Two CR123A batteries power the camera.
If equipped, the QD (Quartz Date) / Date back require the use of one CR2025 coin type battery. Imprint display modes include M/D/Y, D/M/Y, Y/M/D, D/H/M and off. The last date the unit can imprint is Dec. 31, 2019
Camera wiki.org
As stated in the sections above, the biggest problem with this camera is its stickiness, and to be honest that is not really a problem. I have cleaned many of these in the past and this one will be no different. Here’s a post I wrote a while back about sticky camera bodies: Sticky, Rubber camera grips
This really does feel like a lot of camera. You can see the digital “thought” that the development guys introduced into this camera in preparation for the arrival of its “Digital” brothers and sisters, I’m going to have to do a bit more reading up on its full operation and capabilities. This camera is in very good condition, no dinks, dents and very few scuffs, all doors are functional and when a battery is installed (a 2CR5 – 6v lithium) everything lights up, and appears to do what it should. I will check this thoroughly though later.
The battery chamber is clear of any contamination, and looks nice, the mirror will need cleaning and the area within it will need a blow through, the shutter curtain seems to be working well at this stage. I will test it more after the clean.
So. Let’s get on with the repair and maintenance.
I’ve started the clean of the rubber and it is filthy. The amount of black that came off on the first clean has required me to get another cloth as it really is that bad. Another two applications and the cloth is a lot cleaner, it has removed a massive amount of goo and dirt and feels a lot better to the touch, and my hands are staying clean and that’s a good sign. I will give a final clean with the car cockpit polish that should finish it off nicely.
I’ve cleaned the mirror and prism above using a swab and the effect is instantaneous, there was a lot of dust here. Opening the curtain in a “B” setting I gave the whole interior a good blast with compressed air that has left the chamber as free of dust and contaminants as I can get it. With the curtain back down, a bulb blower and brush is all that was needed to complete the task. A lens mount cover is now in place to prevent anymore dirt getting in.
I’ve put in one of my old test films to check the camera’s function, and it’s transport & rewind, and I’m pleased to say this works just fine. At a shutter speed of 4000 I’ve never heard such a sweet sounding camera. This really feels like a lovely camera that I can’t wait to take out and run a film through.
Going through the function screen, there are no bad pixels and all options are available. I have tested the eye control function and programmed my own profile into the camera, it does seem to be working, it might be a little hit and miss, I programmed it very quickly so maybe I just have to read up on it more, just to tweak its use as such.
All sub menus on the rear of the camera are operable and all buttons and dials are doing what they should. This camera is ready to go, and is in a perfect working order.
This camera was probably discarded to one side when the sticky grip problem started to rear its ugly head. It really is a shame that this happens, it’s such a simple problem to eradicate. This is an absolutely superb camera and packed with technology that would eventually have gone on to be incorporated into the soon to appear professional digital offerings from Canon. For 35mm photography this was a perfect swan song, 35mm photography had peaked with this range of cameras and Canon had perfectly produced cameras that in effect had pushed this theme of photography to its highest level. It was the best of the rest at the time.
This camera deserves some respect, it feels superb in the hand, looks good, sounds terrific and performs exceptionally well. There will always be the haters out there, there always will be. But as you will have gathered, I don’t really report badly of any of my cameras as I truly love them all. They are superb items of modern and semi modern technology that have captured history. They just deserve to be preserved and protected and most of all enjoyed.
I will shortly be posting some pictures from this camera that can be found here:
Thank you for passing by, as always it is very much appreciated.
An old EOS 10 was in need of attention. And I was able to lend a helping hand
Here I have a Canon EOS 10, a quite superb little camera. The date code within the film barrel is HE1213, indicating that this camera was manufactured in December 1990. At the time of manufacture this camera sat firmly at the top of Canons camera tree only surpassed by the EOS1 professional camera that had been released the year earlier in 1989.
This camera was amongst a selection of cameras and equipment passed on to me by a good friend and professional photographer as can be seen here: Cameras…i need more!
Here is a little history regarding the EOS 10
The Canon EOS 10 is an autofocus 35mm SLR introduced in 1990. The model name was EOS 10S in the Americas, and EOS 10QD in Japan. There was a commemorative metallic-silver version introduced in 1991 to mark Canon’s 60 millionth 35mm camera sold.
The improvements over the original EOS cameras are a newly improved autofocus sensor. Focus modes include One-Shot AF for non moving subjects and AI Servo AF for moving subjects. It is able to detect and switch automatically between the autofocus modes. Shutter ranges from 30 sec. to 1/4000 sec., with B. X-sync at 1/125 sec. Similar to the EOS 750, is has a built-in flash with a guide number 12 (at ISO 100). It uses one 2CR5 lithium battery and weighs approx 625g for the body without battery.
Camera wiki.org
One of the nuances introduced on this camera was the barcode option. Introduced at a time where barcodes were starting to creep into our life, in a knock at Minolta and their use of specific expansion cards for specific scene settings, Canon thought it would be good to utilise barcodes that you could scan, to automatically set your camera with these options without expansion cards. Needless to say it didn’t take off and was soon dropped from later camera production. It was a sign that the development teams were looking for advancement opportunities.
These cameras are available at fairly reasonable prices now partly due to the dreaded sticky rubber grip issue that tends to send buyers running for the hills, god knows why, it’s an easily remedied issue that just takes a little time and patience. I did a previous post about cleaning these cameras here: Sticky, Rubber camera grips it’s all down to the polymers in the Vulcanised rubber breaking down and reacting with hand sweat and other stuff. Have a read, and never throw away a camera just because it’s sticky.
This camera has some stickiness but it is not an advanced case. It will still be cleaned in the same manner, to prevent it developing any further.
The camera is just a bit dusty and in need of a good clean. The mirror is dusty and needs cleaning, a blow out of the interior should suffice as the shutter blades are opening and closing with no issue.
The battery is a lithium 2CR5 cell. The battery chamber is clean with no signs of battery contamination, this is a very good sign. When placed into the camera the screen comes on, is clear with no damage. A lens put on the front confirms that auto focus can be achieved and the camera fires and winds as expected.
To be quite honest, there doesn’t seem to be a lot wrong with the camera. It really seems to be just a clean and maintenance issue. I’m going to give the camera a thorough look over, dust and clean, a thorough clean of the external rubber and finish it all of with a good exterior body treatment. I will then run a roll of used film through to check the DX reader is working, as well as the transport system. Fingers crossed nothing major raises its head during the repair process.
Straight in and at the cleaning, and to be honest the rubber wasn’t too bad. I only used two applications and not a lot of dirt came off on either. After it has dried, it does feel a great deal better.
The mirror has cleaned up nicely, so has the prism above it, however whilst in there I noticed that the mirror damper felt was failing, so this I have now removed and will have to replace prior to using as I don’t want to cause any further damage.
I’ve had to order some new material that will hopefully be here shortly, as my supply, as is always the problem lately, is in storage with all my other gear pending this house move that will probably never occur. it’s a real pain in the butt not being able to access your most required kit. Hey ho.
The light seal has arrived, and so I start by getting the damper felt put in place. First I cut it to size, remove the sticky back paper and just wipe the sticky bit with some water, this allows me a little more time to reposition it before the adhesive does its work.
Below is a very small video with me putting the camera into manual mode on a single exposure setting to test the actual worth of the damper foam.
I’m happy with what has been done so far.
I’ve even given the neck strap a good buff up, the rubber on it was almost white rather than black, a bit of a clean and a polish and it’s now been restored to it’s original glory.
With the new damper in place it’s now time to run a film through it, I have an old test film I use for this purpose, I’m going to set the camera to its highest shutter setting and just run the whole roll through in quick succession to check the transport and rewind.
And here is that test, it went super fine and the full roll rewound at the end.
I’ve tested all settings, shutter speeds and functions including the flash and all is as it should be. I’m happy to say that this camera appears to be in full working order.
Now for the final clean and presentation.
Well, a little bit of car cockpit cleaner has done wonders. It looks beautiful and has a nice aromatic smell as well. I know I’m biased when it comes to cameras but I think this is an absolute beauty.
I’m really pleased with this camera, I’m heading out later today to watch a relative play football and I’m going to take this along to grab some snaps with an expired film from 20 years ago. It will be a good final test of the capabilities of this camera, and should finalise its renovation. It’s been a great camera to work on and is yet another worthy addition to my collection. I will post the photos here when they are finalised. Canon Eos 10 test shots
Thank you all for passing by, it’s always most appreciated.
It’s the only place on the planet I’d happily move to
If you could live anywhere in the world, where would it be?
I’ve answered similar prompts to this before therefore it won’t be a protracted answer.
That answer is southern Cyprus. West of the island, Polis and Latchi to be precise.
Love the people, the food, the culture and quite simply the quality of life. it’s a fantastic place operating at a speed I can quite easily blend in to.
It’s our very happy place.
Have a beautiful day.
How did the old film trial go? Come in and take a peek.
I posted earlier today Well, that was most enjoyable! Regarding popping out for a morning stroll and taking a 48 year old camera with me to shoot a roll of film that had expired 20 years since.
At 20 years old, the roll was an experiment where i exposed at normal settings, +1 stop overexposed and +2 stops overexposed. I obtained 39 exposures, always possible from a 36 exposure roll, I won’t bother you with them all, just 2 from each exposure range with a brief description. Don’t expect fine art here, it was a snap session to test a number of factors and to see how the film has deteriorated over time.
These pictures have not been retouched apart from having a frame put around them. They are as scanned, for authentic representation.
The advertised, original roll ASA rating. Very low expectations and it didn’t disappoint.
At 200ASA the shots were certainly under exposed. The pictures have a cast over them and after development there is a lot of curl on the emulsion (Age) and the base of the film also has a darker tone, creating that yellow brown cast.
The best two exposures represent the first overexposure of one stop from 200ASA to 100ASA.
At 100ASA everything seems quite acceptable. There is that hue over the film still, and highlights seem quite prominent. Grain is present but not too distracting.
If you work by the suggested standard of one stop of exposure for every 10 years then this should be the standard. However I’m not so sure.
So with the exposure at 50ASA we have now introduced quite a bit of grain, a yellow hue and quite prominent highlights. I’m sure all of these pictures would post process fine if run through photo shop or light room. But to be quite honest I love that retro look that they have.
For me i’d probably aim at the 100ASA +1 stop of overexposure on the remaining rolls I have, I believe that would be quite enough, however even the 50ASA option is not too bad though you would require a lot of post working and you’d have quite a noticeable size grain.
Horses for courses as they say, but I’m going down the +1 stop overexposure route for the next film.
I found a little local photo store here in Leicestershire called Classic photo supplies, who specialise in all film processing, supply, printing and Sundry items. The owner Brett invited me in and we just chatted classic photography whilst my film was developing. He’s a super guy, and I’m all for supporting small businesses, so this is my new go to lab. The scans were done and over to me by email within an hour, super quick service. I’ll pick the negatives up in the week when I drop off another film to be developed and scanned.
Thanks for passing by. As always I am honoured by your presence.
Thanks. For your time.
Foxes Den 
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