Tag: fault

Canon EOS D60

Who would have thought a button the size of a grain of rice could declare this camera defunct and dead. Let’s have a look at it and see if we can get it working again.

What the listing stated:

The Canon EOS D60 DSLR is a digital SLR camera body offered here for parts or repair, ideal for those seeking components or a restoration project.

This digital camera has been tested and does not power on. It is being sold as faulty, for parts or repair only.

Cosmetically, the camera body and battery grip show typical signs of use, such as surface marks and wear. Functionality has not been restored, and no further testing has been performed beyond confirming it does not power up. The battery grip (BG-ED3) is included but requires two batteries for operation; only one battery is supplied. No charger, lens, or additional accessories are included.

Accessories Included: BG-ED3 battery grip, 1x battery (no charger).

EBay

My Canon D60

I’ve purchased this camera kit for the princely sum of £14:24GBP. An absolute bargain, even if it doesn’t work. It’s worth more than that to me, even for spare parts if I can’t get it working, however let’s not go down that route just yet. This camera also comes with a BG-ED3 battery grip that on its own currently retails on the auction platforms for around £20-£30 so before we start I’m on to a winner.

Here’s a little bit about this camera that was released in 2002, don’t get it mixed up with the later EOS 60D that was released in 2010…a different camera entirely:

The Canon EOS D60 is a discontinued 6.3 megapixel digital single lens reflex (DSLR) camera body, announced by Canon on February 22, 2002. It is part of the Canon EOS range, and accepts Canon EF, TS-E and MP-E lenses, but not Canon’s later digital-only EF-S lens range.

The EOS D60 sits in the prosumer (professional-consumer) line of digital SLR cameras. It succeeded the three megapixel EOS D30 and was replaced by the improved, six megapixel EOS 10D.

The EOS D60 features:

  • 22.7 x 15.1 mm CMOS sensor (APS-C)
  • 6.3 megapixel effective (6.3 megapixel total)
  • Max resolution 3072 x 2048
  • FOV crop (1.6x)
  • Canon EF lens mount (excludes EF-S)
  • 3-point auto focus
  • 100, 200, 400, 800, 1000 ISO speed equivalent
  • 30 to 1/4000 s shutter speed and bulb
  • TTL 35 zone SPC metering: evaluative, center weighted, partial
  • Exposure compensation -2 EV to +2 EV in 1/3 EV or 1/2 EV steps
  • Auto White Balance (plus 5 positions & manual preset)
  • Eye-level pentaprism viewfinder
  • 1.8 in (46 mm) color TFT liquid-crystal monitor
  • E-TTL flash mode
  • 3 frames per second continuous shooting (max. 8 frames)
  • Dimensions (WxHxD): 150 x 107 x 75 mm (6.0 x 4.4 x 2.9 in)
  • Weight (body only): 780 gm

Wikipedia

So, as usual let’s await its arrival so we can carry out a full assessment of the camera and related equipment.

Assessment:

The package has arrived, and wow, this is a lot of camera for a very small price.

A lot of camera for little cost

The condition cosmetically is fantastic, I’d call it almost mint but the seller thinks otherwise, he certainly has some high standards, I’m pleased I know him if it means I can purchase items such as this. The only thing that is missing is a small rubber cap that covers the digital and video out ports, not an issue for me, and definitely not detrimental to the operation of the camera, this can be replaced but it really isn’t worth the bother or the extra expense.

The missing rubber port cover

The camera has come attached to the power winder and has a Canon dust cap over the lens mount/body aperture. There is a single battery and this does have some life still in it.

No damage to the CF card reader pins

There is a good quality camera strap attached, and when the battery grip is taken from the body and checked, all battery connections are clean and free of any contaminants. There is no damage to the CF card reader pins within the CF card port. An added bonus is that the body battery cover is tucked away on the power grip handle, and all connections are good, these little battery cover doors normally end up being thrown away so that you end up paying some pirate on the internet an absolute fortune to replace a battery cover door, that in theory is only worth a few pounds. Yes there are many robbing bandits out there! (That’s the polite, non sweary word version)

Battery chamber minus door
Door storage on battery grip
Battery door
Door and chamber reunited

The camera listing stated that the camera grip needs two batteries for operation, this is not technically true as one battery will still operate the camera whilst using the grip. The option for two batteries just extends the usage of the camera, hence saving you the aggro of changing out batteries when you have a longer camera session planned.

And that one battery does have life in it as I stated earlier.

I know this, because I plugged it into the camera grip, I turned the operating switch on and hey presto, there is life

It’s alive!

So to further test I have removed the grip, and gone back to using the camera with its original battery cover, and then…it doesn’t operate. How strange!

So I then go back to the power grip and everything works fine!

Back to the original battery cover. Nothing again.

I won’t ruin your reading at this point, as to be totally honest if I tell you what was wrong here, I will have nothing to put in the repair section below. Just read on, I can assure you that you will not be impressed. It really is that mundane and boring, you will probably just roll your eyes and question why I have even called it a repair. But a repair is a repair, no matter how insignificant and minuscule it may be, and if it gets the camera working then we are on to a winner.

Repair:

Thanks for staying with me.

Have a look at the three pictures below.

A lever on the battery cover….
Activates a tiny blue button (Circled in red)
That tiny blue button (enlarged photo)

The issue was with the tiniest of buttons. It wasn’t working.

A small tab on the inside of the battery door presses this button when you lock the door. If that tab is broken, or if the switch itself is damaged, the camera may act like the battery is dead or not installed.

The tiny blue button (or sometimes black/white) located inside the battery chamber of a Canon EOS camera is a safety micro-switch that detects whether the battery door is properly closed. It ensures the camera has a solid connection to the battery and that the door is closed to prevent damage. It acts as an instant cut-off switch to prevent data corruption (e.g., if the door opens while the camera is writing to the CF card).

If this switch is not engaged, the camera will not turn on.

And this appears to be the problem. The battery cover was not putting enough pressure upon the little blue switch, the switch also appeared to be a little stiff but soon loosened up when it was cleaned with some IPA and activated a number of times using plastic tweezers. It appears that when the grip was installed and fastened into place there was sufficient pressure to operate the switch, hence the issues I experienced when changing from one battery mode to the other, earlier in this post. Now, when either the original battery cover or the power grip is used, power continuity is restored, and the cameras screen and activities all appear to be working as they should be.

However, we need to now install fully charged batteries, a CF card, and need to get a compatible lens on the front to ensure all the dials, and buttons function and do as they should be doing. I know the flash is definitely working, as this popped up and fired when I was testing the battery earlier, I’m fairly confident we have located and dealt with the underlying issue, though it doesn’t hurt to do a full test of the system just to confirm our findings and to ensure that there is nothing else lingering around, just waiting to be found out.

CF card and new battery installed

I’ve now installed a charged battery and a CF card into the camera, no issue here and all systems seem to be operating ok, no error codes or faults showing. I’ve put on one of my test lenses, a Canon EF 28-80 1:3.5 -5.6, and again everything is good, auto focus and manual focus, all works fine and all settings on the function dial are working just as they should. This camera is doing just what it should be. And appears to be working extremely well in all aspects of operation.

Result:

I’ve taken a few pictures in and around the house and everything appears to be working and functioning as expected. I can confidently state that this camera is working perfectly. It’s not the greatest of lenses as it’s just a test one I use for my cameras, but it proves the point though, that the unit is working and communicating well with all points of the camera.

Looking good and now in a working order

This is a fantastic camera, I only paid £14:24 for a lot of camera dating from 2002, less than the cost of a couple of pints of beer or three coffees, and from my point of view it is an absolute bargain. And it was all down to a little button comparative in size to a grain of rice.

Just a few random pics around the house to quickly test

So I am super pleased with how well this repair has gone, such a simple issue that totally killed the functionality of this unit, easily repaired, all it took was a good bit of investigation, probably taking no more than 20 minutes of my time. I must admit it helps to know a little about how these units function. It always amazes me though, that these sellers could make a bigger return on their items if only they had someone to give these units the once over before declaring them dead and fit for spares and repairs only.

However I’m not complaining as i get to add a superb item to my collection for a very reasonable price. Just browsing the sales sites shows that the basic version of this camera without the power grip is commanding a price of between £140-£150.00GBP, I only paid £14:24. I think I’m the winner here.

There are bargains to be struck out there, if you are willing to give a little time and patience into getting them back up and running. Recycling works.

Many thanks for passing by, it is always very much appreciated.

Canon AV1

I now have a Canon AV1 with a shutter problem. Can I fix it? I’ll have a good go…

What the listing stated:

This camera is in very good overall condition. Some light signs of use but this is generally minor. The light meter is responsive when you press the shutter button down. However, the shutter will not fire. Spares or repairs only.

EBay

I’ve just paid £8:98GBP for this camera, and I believe this is a great price for a piece of camera history. The AV was introduced due to there being a demand for aperture priority at the time, whereas its Sibling, the AE1 was purely shutter priority. Later cameras would come to incorporate both systems. This one has a known problem with a stuck mirror – it won’t fire and I think I can easily sort this problem. Well I hope I can.

The Canon AV1 I have just purchased

Here’s a little information about this camera:

The Canon AV-1 is a 35 mm single-lens reflex camera with an FD lens mount, introduced by Canon Inc. in 1979.

The AV-1 is very similar to the 1976 AE-1 but provides aperture priority autoexposure rather than the AE-1’s shutter speed priority AE. The camera is not capable of fully manual exposure. Canon’s international distributors, particularly in the United States, had clamored for such a camera because competing brands offered mostly aperture-priority cameras and some preferred it. The AV in the name referred to the type of autoexposure; Av (Aperture Value) is a common abbreviation for aperture priority.

When this camera appeared, a new range of FD lenses was introduced, with instant mounting/unmounting of the lens. This is called the New FD mount and does away with the older type of mounting ring which was fitted on to the rear of the lens and was awkward to use and needed two hands, to a newer, easier system whereby the user lined up the red dot on the lens, with the red dot on the camera and simply turned the whole lens clockwise until it clicked into place.

All the other AE-1 accessories fit the AV-1.

Wikipedia

I’ve decided to collect all of the Canon “A”Series of cameras, and this adds to my current collection that consists of an A1 and an AE1. There were I believe, six cameras in this range and this current camera will be my fourth. Here’s a list of the “A” range of cameras below. I have highlighted with an asterisk all that I currently have at the date of this blog post being published:

Assessment:

The original listing description does not match the issues that I have found. It originally stated that the light meter is responsive, it isn’t. It also stated that the shutter does not fire, it does when a battery is installed. The battery level indicator in the viewfinder does work when the check button on the camera is depressed. However when you focus the camera and half depress the exposure button to get a meter reading, the needle in the viewfinder doesn’t respond, this is the only real issue I can see, I guess the seller must have been looking at another camera as he wrote the listing for this camera.

Battery level reading in the viewfinder

All settings appear to be working as they should, the “B”setting allows me to scroll through the “f” stop settings to see the aperture leaves working as they should. All “f” stop settings appear to work on the auto setting.

Camera appears tidy but grubby

It’s a smart little camera, this a tidy example of this version with no dents, dinks and just some very fine scrapes on the base as you’d expect from a camera fast approaching 46 years old (1979-2025). It’s a bit dirty and needs a good clean inside and out, the light seals are in a good state and not requiring replacement or repair just yet, however the mirror bumper has deteriorated and this will need replacement.

Mirror bumper needs replacement

The shutter curtain is in a good and untouched condition.

I’m going to research issues with the exposure indication, and I will incorporate my findings within the repair section.

Repair:

I thought, perhaps the camera is suffering from lack of use? It certainly is probably some considerable time since this camera was last used. Firstly I’ll try exercising all the controls that affect the exposure reading, including the mode dial, film speed dial, aperture ring, etc. I’ll work them backwards and forwards a few times to see if this helps to clean the variable resistor tracks inside from any surface contamination. When the FD lens is attached you must be mindful that the “A” setting on the lens is not used and that the f stop settings are used in a manual manner, lens auto is not a function on this camera.

Auto shutter on camera
Do not use the “A” setting on the lens. It doesn’t work

To be honest, this did seem to work sort of. The needle has moved off the bottom a bit. The ASA setting was on 100, so I put it up to 1600 as it is quite a dark day and the sensitivity of the light sensor would be reflected better at this setting. It moved a bit but I wasn’t totally convinced that this indication in the viewfinder reflected the true light situation.

I set a higher ASA for testing

There’s also a small, silver push-button just inside the lens mount at about the 4-5 o’clock position. If you press this in and release it a few times for the same reason, as exercising the dials as I did above, it is just like exercising a body part and keeping it supple. Leave items like this, designed for high usage redundant for a while and they soon seize up. it has also been known to assist with getting the needle indication working after a long lay off.

That silver button, highlighted

(A little bit of trivia here – this button is normally used for the lens to inform the body of the lens’s maximum aperture. This information isn’t needed on the AV-1, but Canon included it anyway for some reason, and it does affect the exposure.)

And combining these actions, moving the settings dial and the button inside the lens mount seems to have revitalised the light meter and I’m now quite confident that it is working as intended. It was just lazy due to low use and needed a bit of non invasive intervention to get it working again. And non invasive intervention is always a good thing. So with the setting back to 200ASA I was able to show the meter working in this very short and basic video below.

A brief video showing the meter needle moving

I’m confident that the metering issue is now sorted so let’s get that new mirror damper installed.

A lot of dirt came off of the area where the replacement damper had to go, it had completely deteriorated and took quite a bit of cleaning.

New damper in place
Dirt that came off, and replacement damper ready to go into place

Now in place it has silenced the mirror movement somewhat, and will provide some longevity as it moves into the twilight of its years. It will be good for many more rolls of film yet. Whilst in the lens area I have cleaned the mirror and prism, and given the area a good blow through and put the lens back in place to seal it all up. It is now clean internally. I have a couple of body caps on order that will assist with storage when the lens is removed.

Just a final clean with some cockpit cleaner, and this camera has come up lovely, I’ve tested it on a Power winder “A” as well and it sounds just so good and “retro”. It’s perfect.

Result:

Well. I now have another lovely example of one of the Canon “A” range of cameras to add to my collection. This brings my current total to four out of the six available, two of which are still currently under repair. For less than £10:00GBP it is so easy to own a piece of photographic history. I have been lucky here that the work that had to be done was non intrusive, and to be quite honest was just basic everyday maintenance. The only real work of sorts was installing some mirror damper felt, of which I have plenty of stock. Cleaning was quite intensive but the overall result is amazing.

Front views after cleaning
Looking amazing compared to what arrived

I will eventually run a roll of film through for a final quality check, however I have such a backlog it will take me a while. When I do however run that test roll I will post a link here:

Really pleased with this repair, and the fact that another lovely old camera has been saved from the scrap heap and been given a new lease of life.

Thanks as always for passing by. It is as always, very much appreciated.

Canon EOS1 N HS

The EOS1 N with the well documented BC fault. Can I repair it?

The EOS1 N was a professional 35mm camera from 1994, it is currently 31 years old. This model is basically the EOS1 N with the E1 drive booster/winder earning it the HS suffix.

Canon EOS1 N HS

These are beautiful analogue cameras and over the years I’ve had a fair few of these pass through my hands, I have not however owned one with the E1 booster/winder before. I’ve recently had a number of cameras passed on to me by a good friend and that post can be found here: Cameras…i need more!

This is one of those cameras that he passed onto me and it carries the well known BC fault. We’ll come on to that later, in the meantime here is a little history lesson, of the evolution of this camera.

The EOS-1N is a 35mm single lens reflex (SLR) camera body produced by Canon. It was announced by Canon in 1994, and was the professional model in the range, superseding the original Canon EOS-1.The camera was itself superseded by the EOS-1V in 2000.

The original EOS-1 had been launched in 1989, two years after the company had introduced their new EOS autofocus system. It was the company’s first professional-level EOS camera and was aimed at the same photographers who had used Canon’s highly regarded, manual focus professional FD mount SLRs, such as the Canon New F-1 and the Canon T90. On a physical level the EOS-1 resembled the T90, which had been designed for Canon by Luigi Colani. The EOS-1N was a revision of the EOS-1, with five autofocus points spread across the frame rather than a single centrally mounted autofocus point, plus more effective weather sealing, a wider exposure range, and numerous other improvements. In common with the EOS-1, the 1N used Canon’s A-TTL automatic flash system, and does not support the more modern E-TTL.

Assessment:

Right, let’s get on to the problem. The BC fault is a blanket fault, covering a multitude of issues, predominantly electrical, even addressed in the accompanying instruction manual as a potential battery issue. However the issue that it is more associated with the fault is the failing shutter mirror magnets. See the video below.

BC error repair

The video above gives a very good insight to the issues, and what to look for and how to get the shutter operational again. It’s not a permanent fix, sometimes the magnets haven’t been used for such a long time that they just seize up. They can be de magnetised, they can just be dirty, either way it’s worth having a look at, to try and restore what is in all aspects a very good camera. It seems to be an issue that an open or close signal is sent, however the magnets for some reason do not react, dirt can be a contributing factor. Below I have put together a very short video of my own camera, the early part shows me trying to get it working and showing the BC indication, the second part shows the mirror “sort of” working after I have tapped in the area just above the top screw on the left side of the lens mount under which the magnets are situated.

My own EOS1 N showing the BC fault

It still doesn’t work properly though and is extremely intermittent, but it’s a start, it proves the fault. I have also used a strong magnet to fool the internal magnets, this works for a couple of firings but that’s it. This also adds credibility to confirm the magnet issue.

I haven’t yet taken the fascia off to access the magnets, I’ve just tapped in their general area, or probed with a strong magnet, this was enough to allow the shutter to intermittently fire, and it is now quite apparent that this is the issue I have with this unit.

You can see exactly where the magnets are located under the fascia

I’ve done some further checks to confirm the fault. If you turn the camera on and open the small door to the right on the rear of the camera, there are a number of buttons inside that allow you to check battery levels and to do resets, and so forth.

The battery check button

By pushing both the clear button and the battery check button together, you can get a fault code to appear on the screen on the top of the camera.

Battery full and Fault code 6

Here as you can see, I have fault code number 6. If you look at the chart below supplied by Canon you will see it refers to a mirror fault, more specifically the mirror is up, but didn’t switch back to on from off, as I mentioned in the above paragraph.

Fault codes

As you can also see above, fault codes 6,7 & 9 refer to the mirror operation issue.

I’ve done all I can really on the outside of the unit, and I think I have conclusively proved the area of the fault. Before we look at replacement of the part, I am going to give it a good clean to see if that will clear the issue. I’ll worry about spare parts later if required. Let’s get the fascia off and have a closer look.

Repair:

I’ve been a right stubborn sod with this one. I really didn’t want to dismantle this camera at all. Something inside was telling me it was unnecessary so I decided to persist with what I had been doing earlier. If only I could get the magnets to fire for a few exposures at a time, it would be just like a coughing car engine clearing out its system and kicking in to life, once it bites you can accelerate it a little more until it starts ticking over. Old motors and cameras are a strange but similar comparison, the longer they are left unused the more inclined they become to not partake in doing what they were made to do, whether powering a car or taking photos. Stop using them and they do just that. Stop.

Well, that’s what I think anyway, My world is as simple as that. And I think it might just work.

So I have persisted….

And purchased a much stronger magnet a “Rare earth” one to be precise. These are the sort of magnets they use for magnet fishing, however this one is small and despite having credentials behind it saying it has 19kg of pulling power I’d suggest that is a lie. Probably a maximum of 3kg if you’re lucky, but either way more than sufficient for me wanting to kick start a tiny electro magnet in a camera.

The most surprising issue around this magnet is the absolute ridiculous size of the packaging that it came in.

This tiny magnet, came in this massive box. Good old Amazon

So I persisted with the magnet, around the lens ring. I reset again and again. Nothing. I used my knuckle to tap the area near the magnet, a single cough, good. More resets, single coughs, more taps two coughs….this is good. I set the camera to high speed wind, kept the exposure button depressed and continued tapping, five or six coughs then stop. It’s an improvement. The magnet is starting to pick up. More tapping then I’m getting about 20 coughs with an obvious delay on one or two activations… we are now getting somewhere.

I put the rare earth magnets near the camera magnet and then switch off and reset. I turn back on again and then get a good 15 seconds or so of rapid fire, the internal magnets are clearing. I remove the rare earth magnet, reset again and the old girl fires into life for about 30 seconds continuously with only the occasional “misfire” the internal magnets are sparking back into life.

You get the idea.

Once you get these magnets operational, the best thing you can do is continually fire them, until they fire smoothly. This camera has not fired up for years, and these components inside are made to be used, and just like someone trying to keep fit, similar to a muscle, if you don’t use it you’ll lose it, it’s the same with these cameras, they need to be used on a fairly regular basis.

I did a 3 minute firing and I’m pleased to say she is now chugging away beautifully with no coughs and splutters. I’m sure glad I persisted with my hunch. I was right. And believe it or not. The battery levels are still good.

I’ve put together a little video here showing it working before and after.

My EOS 1N shutter magnet issue

Well what more can I say. It appears to be working.

Result:

To say I’m chuffed with this repair is an understatement. Sometimes you don’t have to dive in and start dismantling to get results. Do your research and make your own plan of attack with the information you have at your disposal. You will find equal amounts of good and bad advice out there, you’ll soon become aware of the differences, just follow your feelings and do what you think is right, if it’s wrong, well you’ve learned a lesson.

She’s ready to go – what a beauty

I am so looking forward to getting a day out with this camera and really letting her loose. I just love the sound of these clunking old machines, I don’t understand why anyone dislikes them. I loved visiting air shows when you had the big old really noisy aircraft that shook your soul from head to toe, they then sanitised that with super quiet aircraft…so boring. They’ve done that to cameras as well that nowadays make no noise. I love these old cameras, every click, clunk and whir brings back superb memories to me. I just love old cameras. I like to think I’m helping a few last just a little bit longer.

Many thanks for passing by, it’s always very much appreciated.

Peace to all.

Olympus Trip 35

What the listing stated:

This lot is being sold for PARTS / REPAIRS, it is currently NOT in a working condition

Olympus Trip 35 w/ D. Zuiko 40mm F/2.8 Lens
& Original Lens Cap

EBay

Olympus trip 35

I brought this item along with a Canon A1 as a job lot. The full detail of what was in the auction and how it progressed can be found here: Not the lottery, but for me – just as good

The page regarding the repair of the A1 can be found here: (Still in draft – coming soon)

Meanwhile here is a little history about the Olympus trip:

The Olympus Trip 35 is a 35mmcompact camera, manufactured by Olympus. It was introduced in 1967 and discontinued, after a lengthy production run, in 1984. The Trip name is a reference to its intended market—people who wanted a compact, functional camera for holidays. During the 1970s, it was the subject of an advertising campaign that featured popular British photographer David Bailey. Over ten million units were sold.

The Trip 35 was a point and shoot model with a 40 mm ƒ/2.8 lens, solar-powered selenium light meter, and just two shutter speeds. In ‘A’ mode, the camera operates as a Program automatic, choosing either 1/40 s or 1/200 s. The camera could also sync with flash, and has a range of aperture settings, from ƒ/2.8 to ƒ/22. In flash sync mode, the shutter is set at 1/40 s. Apart from a simple four-position zone focus system, and an ISO setting from 25 to 400,[2]the camera has no other photographic controls. The camera has a Prontor-Compur sync connector and a hot shoe. Its lens was a coated Zuiko 40 mm ƒ/2.8, with four elements in three groups.

The camera has an ISO range of 25–400, as films faster than 400 were uncommon at the time and delivered reduced image quality. 25 speed allowed the use of Kodachrome, while 400 speed allowed use of Kodak Tri-X and similar fast materials under low light. Earlier models, from the first few years of production, have a maximum ISO speed of 200.

The use of a selenium photocell to select the shutter speeds and aperture let novices use the camera as a “point & shoot”. No batteries are needed to power the camera.

The lack of more than two shutter speeds was not a problem. At 1/200 s and ƒ/22 with 400-speed film, the camera could deliver correct exposure in full sunlight, while at 1/40 s and ƒ/2.8, correct exposure could be obtained under bright fluorescent light, without a flash.

Wikipedia

And who could ever forget the series of star studded television adverts, featuring the photographer David Bailey, put together to promote this camera.

David Bailey

I never really got to use one, I admired one from a distance instead. My brother in law, Jim had one around about the mid to late 70s and he took some fantastic snaps with it. I wasn’t into photography at that time as I was still more interested in LEGO and Tonka trucks. However he did let me try it a couple of times, it really was that easy to use.

I’m not really sure what the problem is with this one, as the listing was not really clear on its issues. I just really wish sellers would just take a few seconds to describe the problems, it really could be an instant decision for the buyer – is it repairable or not? I’ll just have to wait until it’s arrived, and then i can do an assessment of its condition.

Assessment:

Well, it’s arrived and cosmetically it looks fine. However, zoom in a tad and the issues become apparent. It’s been dropped at some time, the lens has a little bit of wobble and you can see the outer ring of the lens has an obvious dent in it.

Drop damage

It does wind so that’s a bonus. The exposure button works and it clicks as it should, and the old selenium exposure meter appears to be responding, the red flag appears in low light and thus the exposure button will not depress. This is good.

Exposure indicator in viewfinder

When you half press the exposure button you would expect to see the relevant shutter leaf aperture close down, to the corresponding f- stop reading, this occasionally happens. If you move the lens barrel slightly it does have an effect, but it looks as if there is also some contamination on one of the shutter leafs, all of this is probably as a result of that tumble that has occurred sometime in the past.

Obvious lens wobble

I will definitely have to remove the whole lens housing from the camera to see if I can do anything regarding that wobble. This is going to be quite some task, and I’m not confident I will succeed, but who knows.

Let’s attempt to get inside.

Repair:

To get into the lens there are three tiny screws on the inner turret bezel that have to be removed that sit around the edge of it. This then pulls out and the lens optics can then be unscrewed.

Here are then two more screws that allow you to remove the selenium light sensor. Below this are three brass screws that hold the body to the lens. One of these screws were loose, hence the wobbly lens, this must have occurred when it was dropped.

Removing the sensor
The three brass body screws

I’ve pretty much had a cleanup here, applied a tiny drop of camera grease to the ring mechanisms, and tightened all these screws, and now the turret is nice and tight. I’ve just given the shutter blades a wipe with a soft brush and that is all it really needs. I’ve reassessed the camera, and tested its operation and it’s all good, working just as expected.

Result:

The dent in the ring remains as it’s causing no issues and is a subtle reminder of its past. The lens issue and its movement has been repaired and this in turn has cured the issue with the sticky aperture blades.

I haven’t touched the inner workings in the top of the camera such as the light metering, as it’s working fine and what’s the point in fixing what’s not damaged?

All repaired and looking good

I’ve still to run a film through it, and this will be done shortly as I have quite a backlog of film cameras to be tested. As soon as I have photos available I will link through this posting.

Really pleased with how this has gone, a nice easy fix but I can’t believe just how small those screws are around the lens bezel. I need my eyes testing that’s for sure.

Thanks for passing by, as always it’s very much appreciated.

WP bothers me today

What bothers you and why?

At the moment, the only thing Bothering me is WP. When I view my site in mobile mode it has gone all skewiffed with the photos looking mahoosive. Only happened in the last 24hrs but all they can say is, “We haven’t done anything?” You most definitely have as my settings have pretty much remained the same since I started this site.

C’mon, be fair, you know you have tampered with things.

I suspect an app update is on the horizon, but they haven’t done anything wrong!

We’ll take yer money, we will tamper with your settings, and deny all knowledge. But we still want yer money you weedy little peasant.

And this evening I was on a chat forum to talk to a specialist for nearly two hours, well it was mainly an AI bot, when the questions I asked got too difficult I was handed over to someone at WP who after another hour did not even answer back. I ask you, I pay good money to this bunch of arses who just couldn’t give a toss about you.

In the end, i sorted it myself. Yes it was their issue and i had to reinstall their crappy app, that the latest update had corrupted.

Edit:

Two days later they come back to me, telling me they have viewed my site and there seems to be nothing wrong with it.

I reply back simply, “I know, because I fixed it”

The reply to that was quite amazing,”Excellent that you fixed your issues with your site, if there is anything else we can help you with in the future, then please reach out to us”

Please pass me that sick bucket 🤮

Have a good day y’all

Fujifilm Finepix S2 Pro

What the listing stated:

ALL ITEMS IN THIS LISTING ARE FAULTY 
FAULTS MAY VARY BETWEENS ITEMS

SOLD AS IS 

NO RETURNS

EBay

The Finepix S2 Pro

I’ve purchased three cameras as a job lot in an auction. All of them have issues but the issues have not been clarified. This is very much a “Suck it and see” auction where I get what I’m given. I’ve paid £24:22GBP for all three and that includes free postage. I’ve purchased from this seller before who is a bonafide Camera business based in South Wales. He has no time for faulty items though, quick in and out is his way of working, no time to fix stuff. I’ve got three good cameras in this bundle and this works out at just about £8:00GBP per camera. And where can you get cameras like this for those prices nowadays.

I’ve just read a blog where a guy had one of these cameras from new, and in 2002 he had paid £1550.00GBP for this camera. Wow, and here i am 23 years later paying the grand total of £8:00GBP for one. Even if I don’t get it working, I’m happy with that.

Now this particular camera had two issues in its lifetime that caused concern, and one of them meant it was pretty much game over, and that one was the CCD issue that used to plague this range of cameras. Fuji released a whole bunch of these cameras with a faulty CCD that had to be fixed under a recall. They built sufficient replacement CCDs to cover the recall and that was about it. There were no remaining CCDs left and at that point what was left had become as rare as hens teeth. If you suddenly developed that faulty a later date, then tough…you were stuffed.

Serial numbers affecting CCD problems are listed below:

Model Serial Number Range 

FinePix S2 Pro 31A127**~31A143** 

32A000**~32A039** 

33A000**~33A007** 

34A000**~34A004**

Fujifilm

The second issue was with a batch of these models that had a “bad” resistor in the power circuit that prevented lock up if there was a power spike, if this failed then the camera just stopped and you were stuck. There was another recall on the second issue but there is probably a lot of cameras out there that again weren’t part of this recall. And I guess owners were pretty fed up of recalls at this point and were off loading their equipment as quick as they could.

The serial numbers regarding the lock up problem are listed below:

Between serial numbers 24L00441 and 24L00680
Between serial numbers 24L01057 and 24L01256
Between serial numbers 24L01553 and 24L01863
Between serial numbers 24L10257 and 24L10608

Fujifilm

My camera serial number

Above you can see the serial number for my camera. Thankfully my number falls outside the range of any of the cameras inflicted with either problem, so it’s fair to say (Fingers crossed 🤞) that I shouldn’t suffer with any of the known issues with this unit. In layman’s terms I think i may well have dodged a bullet here.

I did speak to the seller regarding the fault on this camera and he stated it was just a general error code on the top screen. There is a general error that arises occasionally regarding certain lenses where they have to be locked on their minimum aperture for the camera to work properly, however I’ve not attached a lens yet so this cannot be confirmed.

Here’s some history:

The Fujifilm FinePix S2 Pro is an interchangeable lens digital single-lens reflex camera introduced in January 2002. It is based on a Nikon F80 (N80 in the U.S.) film camera body that was modified by Fujifilm to include its own proprietary image sensor and electronics. Because of the Nikon body, it has a Nikon AF lens mount and so can use most lenses made for Nikon 35 mm cameras. It is autofocusing, with an electronically controlled focal plane shutter with speeds from 30 sec. to 1/4000 sec., built-in exposure metering and pop-up flash. Its ISO film speed equivalents range from 100 – 1600. The S2 Pro also has sound recording capability. The camera is no longer in production, having been superseded by the Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro in February 2004.

Aside from the Nikon lens mount, the camera’s principal distinction is its 6.17 megapixel photo sensor. Known as the Super CCD, it is unique in having its photodiodes oriented diagonally rather than horizontally and vertically as in all other DSLR cameras. This allows the use of a sophisticated interpolation system that produces an output image equivalent to 12.1 megapixels. The apparent resolution of images in this interpolated mode lies somewhere between 6.17 megapixels and the 12.1 megapixel interpolated output.

A huge number of these cameras were built using a Sony sourced defective CCD that was subject to a recall by Fuji. The recall ended when the stock of these replacement CCD’s was depleted. There is word that no other stockpiles exist of this Super HAD CCD, making these cameras that are found with the purple or black tinted image problems extinct, only usable for parts. The Fuji F700 used a similar defective HAD CCD, but in 3.1/6.2Mp size. That camera has met a similar fate.

Wikipedia

So let’s hope that we can get some pictures out of this unit. We just have to wait and see what arrives.

Assessment:

Well the camera has now arrived, and I must say it is in an absolutely beautiful condition. Cosmetically there isn’t a scrape or scratch, all screens are scuff free and it looks as if this unit has been well cared for. It just needs a wipe over to clean. The package is just the camera body with no extras such as a body aperture cover or neck strap, but who’s worried about that, they can be procured at a later date.

Front view
Rear view
Flash open
Nikon type F mount

These units are quite power hungry requiring a total of six batteries. 4 AA cells go in the base and two Lithium CR123A batteries go in the grip. These batteries work in unison, one set handling the basic camera functions whilst the other deals with the capture and processing of images. It’s a strange affair, loosely based around the same setup that was originally on their film based camera counterparts.

AA batteries
CR123A batteries

I’ve had to order the lithium batteries, however I can still get displays and Information using just the AA batteries in the base, basically it is semi functional in this situation.

The lens mount is a standard Nikon F mount, I’m going to have to search through my equipment to see if I have such a lens, I suspect I don’t, so I may well have to purchase a small lens purely for test purposes. I have some other Nikon repairs in the queue, so a lens to have for test purposes wouldn’t really go amiss.

The unit takes either a CF card type II or a Smart-media card (Max size of 2Gb on both) that is located behind a hinged section on the rear of the camera, these work fine and have no bent pins.

Media card ports at the rear

With batteries in place I get the full range of menus, and nothing comes across as suspect at all at this stage in the assessment.

The top menu – no lens attached to test

The top menu by the exposure button is the only “F” indication showing, I have no lens attached so this might be the reasoning for that, but if I do put the menu into manual mode I get the full range of shutter speeds and can even operate the shutter, the shutter seems to be working at all selected speeds with no issues as far as I can see.

Some of the shutter speeds available in manual mode

All other menus are available and I’m even able to format the CF card via the cameras menu. The picture you see on the screen was taken on another camera. It wiped fine so no issues here.

Various menus and the screen after a format was completed through the cameras menu controls

The camera seems to be working with no apparent communication issues as yet. When you try to use the flash it even informs you that you need to insert the correct batteries to test. As I’m awaiting the CR123A batteries I won’t be able to test the flash functionality until they arrive.

No CR123A batteries installed? – You can’t use the flash

As I have stated the testing can only go so far until I have the missing items in my possession, for me that is the two missing batteries and a suitable lens. I’m currently in the process of procuring both. Physically there is nothing wrong with this camera after spending a good couple of hours going over it. I’m quite comfortable with it and believe it could be a lens communication error or just a failure to read the instructions properly by the previous owner. All I need now is that lens. I’ll let you know what occurs in the repair section.

Repair:

To be quite honest it’s not really been a repair, it’s been more of a “pre flight check” to collar a phrase, going through all of the cameras capabilities and ensuring that they are all functioning correctly. As the camera was listed as faulty, and the fault was not identified, I have had to do many hours of testing and Investigation to get to this point.

I’ve done a bit of shopping and managed to buy a nice little lens from the Southern hospice group. Always happy to help a charity and secured this at a good price of £15:50GBP, and that includes the postage, for a Sigma 28-200 f/3.8-5.6 Ø72 Zoom Lens Nikon F Mount. There looks like a bit of fungus on the outermost optic, however I can always clean this if it’s too bad. If not I’ll just leave as is for the moment and keep it vacuum bagged between uses, I can always do a separate post on cleaning up fungus in a lens at a later date. (I have done a basic fungus clean in the past : Canon EF lens 35-80mm)

My new – old test lens

I wasn’t looking at spending too much here, as I only wanted a lens to test a number of Nikon repairs I have upcoming as well as this S2 Pro. This lens will fit that role perfectly, and be added to my collection of other lenses that I have that allows me to test a range of different camera products. I have also purchased an “F” mount body cover for the camera to protect the unit when there isn’t a lens attached to it.

The two CR123A batteries have arrived and have been placed in the handle grip. The warning that was there before the batteries were installed (see picture above) has disappeared and when placed in manual mode the flash fires just perfectly, no issues here.

The Lens has arrived. Good point is that it fits fine and looks good, and all electrical contacts are good. Bad point is it has severe fungus throughout, and is just like looking through a fog.

Severe fungus in the lens

I will do a separate post on cleaning this problem up in a later post. However I’m not overly worried at this point, I paid a very low price so it was to be expected, I’m not complaining to the seller who was a Hospice, they need the money and I can fix it so there really is no problem.

That lovely looking lens hides a problem

The excellent news is that the lens does exactly what it should. The camera indications are good, all working exactly as expected . However the pictures via the screen are extremely hazy due to the fungus infection on the lens. There are no black or purple casts on the pictures so I am quite happy that we haven’t inherited the dreaded CCD issue discussed earlier in this post.

Hazy days – Lens fungus

If I use the lens wide open and pop the camera into auto mode I do get an “ERR33” code and that is a communication issue between the lens and the camera. As I have stated earlier in this post, you have to have the lens set at its lowest aperture and locked for the error code to go. Fortunately this lens allows you to lock the aperture and once this is done the camera takes over the exposure when it is working in automatic mode. So as I also stated earlier, it appears the seller was probably not aware of this requirement/issue.

Result:

We have a fantastic working camera, it does all it was produced to do, it has its little quirks and oddities, but being familiar with these cameras and at least having some knowledge and awareness of how they operate is always a wise thing. Read the instructions and don’t just throw them in the drawer until you eventually sell the camera on as a damaged item, when in fact you were just lacking the knowledge on how it operates in the first place. Instruction manuals are good, they serve a purpose. Knowledge is king.

The complete camera with lens

This camera cost me £8:00GBP. That is a superb price for a camera of this quality even though it is now 23 years old. It has a lot of life left in it, and I can’t wait to get it out and give it a real test.

It’s a little beauty – And the lens that needs attention

So in theory I’m confident and happy that this camera is now in a fully operational order, it’s needed a clean, it’s needed a lot of research to find out how it works, and I’ve also downloaded the operating instructions and repair pack should they be required.

It’s taking pictures and storing them. It’s just the lens at the moment isn’t performing at its best due to its fungus on the optics issue. I’m keeping the pictures stored on the card to compare them with the new pictures that will be taken once I have another lens to use.

Once the lens clean up is complete, if I ever get around to it, I will link it through this post.

Edit:

As 12/7/25 I have purchased a newer higher quality lens without any of the above issues to be able to get some instantaneous results, and as I have about seven other Nikon cameras requiring testing, some with sensor issues, it was wise to invest in a better quality lens. I have purchased a Nikon 28-100mm AF Zoom Nikkor Lens G AF-d, in perfect condition and the post regarding it can be found here: Nikon 28-100mm AF Zoom Nikkor Lens G AF-D

A newer – old lens, much superior quality

As previously stated I will add photos in this post once the new lens arrives, to show the difference from the fungus infected lens to a decent lens. The old lens is still a work in progress and I will post about it again as a separate post once the clean up is complete. It will probably be a job completed once the long winter nights are back in situ.

Below are comparison photos between the old lens with fungal issues and this new lens:

It’s just typical for me to manage to make another post from an issue that has arisen from fixing a different item. But isn’t that life? Continuous improvement is a factor we come across on an almost daily basis, and if you deal with old items as much as I do, then there is always something else that needs repairing, something that requires your attention and I just love that. The ability to improve or make something better, gives such a feeling of achievement and accomplishment, and total satisfaction. And that’s why I write this drivel. It’s for me, it’s what this blog was originally set up for. It’s my journal of what I do.

Many thanks for following this post. You know it is always very much appreciated.

Fujifilm Instax 100 instant film camera

What the listing stated:

Fujifilm Instax 100 Instant Film Camera – Faulty Untested See Lens Shutter

Otherwise clean, 

battery compartment is clean, 

unable to test so selling for spares or repair considering the lens shutter 

EBay

Instax 100 Instant film camera

I’m a tad annoyed at myself here as I had arranged a good price with the seller but because I was too eager I pushed the wrong button and purchased at the original advertised price. The seller must think I am a right plum, and I’d be inclined to agree with him. That said I’ve secured this for a good all in price, and it will be a nice addition to my collection. It’s a 26 year old camera, and i’ve been looking for one of these particular cameras that use the wider format of Instax film for quite a while, but even the damaged ones command hefty prices. I’ve paid an all in price of £28:55GBP here when I should have paid £23:55GBP. Never mind, lesson learned and don’t be so hasty in the future. They can command a good price as can be seen in the photo below:

Some recent sale prices

Here’s some info about this camera:

The Fujifilm Instax 100 was released on May 1st, 1999. It has been replaced by the newer Instax 200, which is very similar except the flash is on one side rather than directly above the lens.

Technical Specifications

  • Type: Instant camera
  • Film: Fujifilm Instant Color Film “instax“
  • Picture Size: 62x99mm (based on the golden ratio, closer to the naked eye)
  • Lens: Move in/out type Fujinon Lens 2 components, 2 elements, 95mm
  • Aperture: f/14
  • Shutter: Programmed electronic shutter 1/64 ~ 1/200
  • Viewfinder: Real image viewfinder 0.45x
  • Focusing: Motor-driven 2-range switching (0.9 to 3m/3m to infinity)
  • Power supply: 4 LR6/AA-size 1.5V alkaline batteries for around 10 film packs.
  • Dimensions: 171.5 x 91.5 x 119.5 mm
  • Weight: 650 gr (without batteries, strap and film pack).

Camera-wiki.org

Now this one is being sold with what looks like only one fault that the seller is concerned with and that being a shutter problem. From experience and as can be seen in this recent post of mine: Another Fujifilm Instax mini 8 I know that this is not a “Lens” issue it is in fact an issue with the iris that protects the lens, and is probably as a result of a small spring being disturbed in that area. It’s quite a simple fix and if it is the only fault then that would be quite some result. However, this is EBay that we are talking about and there could be a number of further faults we haven’t been informed of. Now I will just have to be patient until it arrives, there is no other choice.

Assessment:

It’s a big one. Compared to the other Instax mini cameras this one is very big. It’s probably 1.5 times bigger than your standard SLR. It’s big. And weighty!

It’s clean…ish. And there seems to be a strip of plastic, a gate as such missing from the top of the camera near the exit slot. This wasn’t mentioned and I’m quite annoyed about that. When batteries are put inside it makes all the noises, but the action isn’t smooth in the lens extension range. This probably ties in with the advertised issue of the lens iris operation. I’m thinking I paid well over the odds for this particular camera, I’ve been conned here, lesson learned.

There could well be multiple problems here, and if that missing piece on the top is anything to do with light proofing, then we could have an issue. Anyway we will cross that bridge when we come to it. Initially I’m going to stick with the original fault, so let’s attack that and worry about any other issues if and when they crop up.

Repair:

The more I get into this camera the more I find wrong with it. The main issue of the faulty lens iris is a fiddly one. You prise off the last section of the lens turret and the iris mechanism comes away fairly easy.

Mechanism removed from lens turret
3 tiny springs all disconnected from the mechanism

But then three tiny springs just fall out and this is why the iris didn’t work. Trying to get them in place is a puzzle itself, as no sooner do you have one connected then another drops off. It’s a fine balancing act to get them all back into place. When they are all reconnected it’s a very delicate operation to get them back into place. And even then you have to go to the inside of the camera to ensure that the lever inside that operates the iris, is aligned to the iris mechanism that is being installed back in the lens turret. It’s a fiddly time consuming job.

All springs attached
The lever on the inside that has to be in the correct position when the iris is attached
Iris now working

At this point the rear fascia and associated ribbon cable need to be removed to facilitate this repair. That’s when a piece of broken plastic falls out, it just so happens that one of the posts putting tension on the print rollers has broken. Great. Another problem. I’ve quickly fixed this by using some wire to act as a retention point. Bodge? Yes, but there really is nothing else that can be done here as the plastic case is thin and brittle. I have used some silicone grease to lubricate the cogs and the whole movement is now a lot smoother. It Will work. of that I am confident.

Broken plastic post, spring out.
Wire bodge, spring now back giving tension

Result:

Well it works but it remains one of my most disappointing fixes due to the dishonesty of the seller. I know, if you buy off auctions it’s Caveat Emptor as they say, I preach it enough but this time I was caught off guard. Lesson learned. But I remain disappointed. Multiple faults, sold as just the one when in fact it also had bits missing that were not declared, very misleading in my opinion. Maybe in future I need to look deeply into these purchases before I give any feedback, i need to change my operation as I was truly shafted here.

Polishes up nice

It does everything that it should, the motor and transport system work, the iris now works, shutter is good, and flash operates. I’m confident that the camera is working fine but I haven’t tried any film through it yet as it uses a bigger format film and is quite expensive, and I’m not forking out for any just yet. Maybe when I get another wider format model to look at I will pay out. Just not yet though. When I do get some film through it I will amend this post accordingly.

I’m off to calm down a bit now, thanks for passing by, I really do appreciate it. Have a great day.

Fujifilm Instax Mini 40 instant camera

What the listing stated:

Fujifilm Fuji instax mini 40 instant camera . Functional, but flash NOT working . 

LISTED REPAIR OR SPARES . NO RETURN . 

THE CAMERA IS TESTED AND WILL,POWER UP AND TAKE A SHOT AND EJECT A SLIDE CORRECTLY. Please watch uploaded video . 

HOWEVER THE CAMERAS FLASH IS NOT WORKING . This is the reason I have listed the cameras as repairs or spares. 

Hopefully someone knows about these cameras and knows whether the flash unit just needs replacing or if it is an electronic fault that needs sorting out can fix it . Otherwise the parts will be useful to someone who repairs these . 

No batteries or film is included . 

The camera body is in very good cosmetic condition. There are only light surface marks in terms of signs of use . . Please see images as they are part of the description. 

The red light to show the camera has powered up lites up when the button is pressed to extend the lens and turns the camera on . 

When you close the lens down it locks securely into place .

The frame counter is working . 

The film compartment is clean and the rear door shut correctly and securely.

Battery compartment is clean and the battery cover locked into place securely.

The camera is powered by to easily available AA batteries ( not included) .

EBay

The Instax mini 40

Now that’s what I call a great descriptive sales pitch. And that’s because the guy is a professional seller of photographic equipment. I’ve seen the video he posted and all the above is true, it really is just a problem around the flash. Maybe it’s an easy fix? I suspect not but either way it will be an interesting project.

Here’s a little info on this camera:

Hitting the market in April 2021, the Fujifilm Instax Mini 40 takes the updates the Fujifilm Instax Mini 11 introduced but wraps them up in a cooler, more retro-styled instant camera body. Instant film fans will probably love it and with its improved design, there’s a chance that those who aren’t instantly drawn to this form of photography may just want to have a play around with the Fujifilm Instax Mini 40, too. It does cost more than the Fujifilm Instax Mini 11, though, so you’ll have to decide if the cooler design is worth an extra £20. 

+ Pros

  • It’s fun
  • Great party camera
  • Easy to use
  • Looks cool

– Cons

  • Film is expensive
  • Viewfinder could be better
  • Powered by AA-batteries

Ephotozine.com

I first of all went in with a cheeky bid of £15:00GBP that the seller originally turned down, so I then put in a high bid of £18:00 and as no one else was wanting it, it actually sold for £16:00, just £1:00 more than I’d originally offered. All in all the cost with the postage was £19:45GBP and I’m really pleased with this. Im surprised though that there are flash issues in a unit that is only just four years old. As you can see in the photo below recent sale prices have been strong and a great deal higher priced than what I have just paid. These are certainly popular little camera’s with the younger generation.

Recent sale prices have been strong

I guess we will just have to await its arrival to assess the flash issue. I’m very confident that I will be able to get this camera up and running again.

Assessment:

Out of all the Instax cameras I have dealt with lately, this has got to be one of the best ones I have had my hands on. This is a mid range instax camera that is more sober in colour aimed at those who enjoy their lomography or better quality instant photography. It certainly looks good, and to be honest I’d rather carry this one around rather than a bright pink one.

Looking nice and sober

As posted in the description above it is in near perfect condition and a quick Look at the flash head shows that the flash bar within the unit is broken.

Flash bar broken
Confirmed broken when removed

Let’s get on with replacing this damaged flash unit.

Repair:

Let’s get it opened up.

Dismantling

People laugh at me when i tell them that playing around inside these units could kill you. I can understand the contempt aimed at me for such a statement, when I’m carrying a bright pink camera that hardly looks dangerous. Just look at the voltage still in the flash capacitor though once I have opened it. Savage.

Residual voltage of 267v still in the flash capacitor

270v would quite easily send you across the room, if you had a heart condition it would probably be game over. I’ve learned my lesson in the past so I ensure I use a capacitor bleed probe before I go anywhere near one of these flash capacitors. The capacitor on this camera is rated at 320v, not to be messed with. Beware. What’s more impressive is that all this energy is supplied from two 1.5v AA batteries. Clever stuff.

I have a donor flash bar in an old spare unit. I have carefully unsoldered its connections and gently removed the very thin glass tube from the donor unit and placed this in the one situated on the new camera.

The donor unit
In place and soldered onto the board of the repaired camera

Carefully, once inserted into the flash reflector, i have soldered it back onto the board. All looking good. However I need to test the flash so I temporarily put the case on, bung in two batteries and turn the camera on. Press the exposure button and the flash fires perfectly. Happy days. I now can confidently reassemble the camera back together, and I’m pleased that when this is done there are no screws left over. All small wins.

I have some film available so there is no better time than the present to give it a try.

Result:

Nice flash – working
Working perfectly

I’ve loved doing this repair, this is a good quality, great condition, and now in perfect working order camera, brought back to life with many more years of use left in it.

But it could have been just chucked in the waste. I’m keeping this one for my collection as it’s a fantastic example acquired at a very good price. Thirty minutes of attention is all it took.

Another one kept from landfill.

Many thanks for passing by. Always appreciated.

Another Fujifilm Instax mini 8

Yes another one. Anyone that reads what I post will realise that these little cameras have really become popular with the youngsters within our family. I recently posted about a family get together: The garden gathering and in this post I stated that a young member of the family liked these cameras so much, that she went out and purchased a damaged one and asked if I could fix it for her. How could I turn down such an offer?

Another Instax mini 8 and that Iris should be closed

And here it is. Needs a little clean and immediately I can see an issue, what I’ve noticed is that the little iris lens protectors that close when the lens is retracted are missing, or not operating and opening properly. Everything else seems to be doing what it should, motor, film transport system etc, however the initial issue reported with this camera was that it’s exposure was sometimes hit and miss, it most definitely all related to the lens issue. A good clean wouldn’t go amiss with some extra attention paid to the light sensor area.

Anyway, enough chat, let’s crack on.

Assessment:

A nice tidy camera, needs a little clean, flash fires, film transport mechanism inside is working and the motor runs. It gives the impression that it is working fine, however….

Here’s a reminder from the young family member who made the purchase, regarding its issues:

I’ve just remembered, I think the advert said something about the photos coming out dark no matter what setting it is on! x

I’d already noticed the little iris mechanism on the front of the lens didn’t open and close when the camera was turned on, so I was going to be looking in this area anyway. But when I looked a little closer and moved the aperture ring on the side of the lens, the relative apertures in the lens were only moving to roughly the half way point, off centre, hence there was no corresponding fully positioned aperture, and in relation to the lighting situation that was presented, they were stuck and blocking the incoming light. In a nutshell there was not a sufficient sized aperture “hole” for any light to get through, resulting in the exposure issue stated above. This needs adjusting. You can see what I mean in the photo below. The lens aperture leaf does not sit central in the lens.

Incorrect aperture settings and positioning in the lens

Apart from the highlighted problems above, i don’t believe there are any other underlying issues. So I’m going to concentrate on the front of the camera solely in the lens turret area.

Let’s get on with the repair.

Repair:

The iris issue is within the lens turret so this will need to be dismantled to access the iris.

Lens top cover removed exposing the iris mechanism below

It was a bit of a head scratcher this one, as I spent a lot of time just staring at the mechanism trying to figure out how it worked. When the iris lids were manually manipulated to the closed position when the turret was retracted all was fine. When the turret was opened up the iris lens did the same, but then if you again retracted the lens the iris remained open exposing the lens. I was thinking it must be missing a spring somewhere and I was about to be proved right.

I found a replacement iris turret in my spares box for instax cameras

I found a replacement iris mount that fits within the lens turret. I had this in a spare box and used this as a reference to compare to the old non operating one. Here is where it was confirmed that there was a spring missing and this is why the iris was not operating.

Spring missing
Spring in place
The old iris mechanism compared to the working one

I replaced the old mechanism with the new one and this was installed back in the camera, this now works fine. I have however found a suitable spring for the old iris so I do now have another spare ready should another be needed in the future.

Iris mechanism installed and now working

The issue with the aperture positioning has been sorted by ensuring that the aperture ring is correctly positioned in relation to the cog mechanism in the lens turret area. It’s a bit like sorting out the timing belt in a car, it just has to be in the right position to achieve the correct aperture settings.

Springs and levers everywhere, and the “Timing” cog on the right that is in the turret area

This sorted, the last thing to do was to give the viewfinder a little clean. You have to be very careful here as the viewfinder is connected to the camera “ready to shoot” indicating light, and there are very fine wires all around this area. Be just a bit too clumsy here and you’d have a difficult soldering project to also add to the original problems. Anyway, no such issues today, the viewfinder was un clipped and prisms and glass cleaned and reassembled. All looking good.

Viewfinder and lots of little wires

I’m now happy that all the issues have been attended to and I’m just going to reassemble the camera ready for a quick clean. Luckily all the screws that came out went back in with none leftover. Result!

Result:

We now have a nice little unit, all aperture settings are working as they should and the lens iris is operating as it was always supposed to do. The viewfinder has also been cleaned and it’s now a nice clear unobstructed view. It just works.

All cleaned and now working, a lovely little camera

I’m guessing this camera will be coming away with the owner on a family holiday that we are all about to embark on shortly. I’m hoping to run some film through this soon but I am ultra confident it will work as all the issues have now been addressed.

I’ve just got some film and rattled off 4 quick shots, one of them indoors. Exposures are fine so I’m happy this is a perfectly good working camera.

4 quickly produced shots

I’m sure there will be one younger member of the family who will be very happy with her new camera. And may she have many years of capturing good times and fantastic memories. This is what these little cameras are made for after all.

Thanks for passing by, it’s always very much appreciated.

Fujifilm Instax Mini 7+

What the listing stated:

Fujifilm Instax Mini 7+ Instant Film Camera Not Working Spare/Parts. When batteries are inserted into the machine, lots of clicking noises can be heard from the battery compartment. The camera button functions do not work and therefore I am selling this as spares and repairs.

EBay

I enjoyed my last repair on one of these cameras so much that I just had to buy another. You can read about that repair and the issues I encountered here: Instax Mini 8

Nice example. And no battery contamination

Here’s a little about this camera:

With its LED-indicating exposure meter manual exposure controls and automatic flash adjustments the MINI 7+ produces well-lit pocket-sized photographs. Easily shoot in-focus snapshots using the 0.37x real image viewfinder with target spot controls and a 60mm lens with a selfie mirror for in-frame portraits. With a shooting range of 23.6 and beyond the MINI 7+ is ideal for close-up portraits and close environments.

T’internet

I believe this camera was released around 2020 so it’s not that old. This particular unit is also missing the battery cover which is a bit of a pain in the Ass, however cheap replacements are available but not matching the cameras colour. Am I bothered? Of course I’m not, as long as it works I’ll be happy. I could even paint it up, that might be interesting.

This unit has cost me the grand total of £8:69GBP my Mini 8 project cost me £11:45GBP so I’m very happy with this price. The value may rise slightly as I will have to purchase a new battery cover.

Anyway, let’s wait for its arrival.

Assessment:

The camera has arrived and it is in good overall cosmetic condition. A bit of dirt on the back near the film counter, but this should clean off ok. There is a gaping hole where the battery cover should be, a pain yes, but I can always source a new one from somewhere.

Generally clean

The good news is that there is no contamination on the battery contacts, they are absolutely fine. When batteries are inserted the transport runs, but it runs too long, and then a red light shows at the end of it’s movement, and no buttons work, in theory it’s dead at this point.

A little movement of the camera and you can tell that something is rattling around inside, so something has definitely come loose or broken from within.

Let’s get it open and have a look.

Repair:

I’ve sourced a replacement battery cover however it’s in China and I’m probably not going to see it any time soon, maybe not even until next month. I’m not going to order just yet until I know if this unit is repairable. But as soon as I get an inkling that it might be repairable I’ll order it.

The replacement cover. It’s white. My camera is purple. Time to get creative.

Next I’m going to open the camera up to see what the source of the ratting sound is.

These are the items that are rattling inside once I have opened up.

The rattling suspects

One of the items i recognise is the spring that comes from the operating button, the other part is broken off of something, i will have to look through the mechanism of a donor camera i have to see if i can find a part that matches. And I’ve found it. It appears to be a film transport mechanism buried deep in the workings that had broken and become jammed.

Top, the broken piece and below the replacement part
Top the replacement part, and below the found broken part

The part is a right pain in the ass to replace, as it has to be in the absolute perfect position within all the cogs, and there is no reference to how the cogs sit. You have to reassemble most of the camera to test, then open it up again to make fine adjustments.

Capacitor sits underneath this battery housing
The replacement part sits under this cog housing on the top right.

So far I have done this about four times, and I still have to open it and do it again. Once again I’ve managed to twice make contact with the flash charging circuit giving myself a right quick electric wallop.

A nice impression of the two flash test probe points I seem to keep touching

I have learned my lesson though and am now employing capacitor discharge probes every time i remove the batteries, as I say in the website intro pages, don’t do as I do. I’m an idiot. These capacitors maintain about 300v to power the flash, believe me it’s a very quick jolt, but it’s a painful one. You certainly know it has happened, be safe, don’t be like me.

Capacitor discharge probes – use them!

I’m holding back on ordering the battery cover at this moment until I can confirm that the cogs and transport system are working in harmony with each other.

On my sixth attempt at lining up the cogs and transport system I believe I have it set correctly. I’ve compared the transport with another similar camera and it duplicates its workings perfectly. It operates well and there are no fault lights showing. The movement is free and unobstructed. I’m happy that the camera is now repaired so I will now go ahead and order the battery cover. The cover has cost a total of £3:12GBP including postage and that puts the total cost of this project up to £11:81GBP compared to my previous project cost for the Instax 8 of £11:45GBP, so I’m pleased with that, as costs are very similar. Oh, and I best get some more film to test it out as well. It isn’t classed as working in my eyes until I see some photographic proof.

Result:

This is my second repair of a camera in the Instax range and the most challenging to date. It’s been great to work on and as usual I have learned a lot about how these cameras work inside. I’m glad I had an old camera to call on for spares as that has proved invaluable in this case. In the past I think I just would have given up on a full repair and junked the camera as many people seem to do, however these cameras are very repairable, desired by the younger folk, and worth designating some time to as they can be saved. There are a lot of non working examples available out there at a fraction of the cost you’d pay for a new working unit. (Money to be made in my own personal point of view)

The unit has polished up very well and looks lovely.

And it works….

And it works just fine
Pictures as expected

I’m so pleased with this camera, it’s taken a lot of time and head scratching but we got there in the end, and it is as good as new. I’m still awaiting the battery cover, and we have guests coming around today so I’m going to use this for some random photos. Just got to make sure I don’t let the batteries fall out. Once again we’ve saved another unit from landfill and that is the big win here.

Three weeks later the battery cover has arrived from China. Perfect fit.

Camera complete

Many thanks to my lovely missus for allowing me to take photos. Rare because she hates having photos taken.

Thanks for passing by, as always it is very much appreciated.