Yep, I’ve mentioned this in the past on a number of posts that I have made on this site. I have spent a small fortune paying people to print missing battery covers, camera crank winders and other parts such as cogs and circuit board standoffs, some purchased from as far away as Italy, but now I will soon be able to do these prints myself.
Bambu labs, P1S 3D combo
I must admit that I am a total novice in this realm of activity, hence I chose to go with a recommended user friendly starter printer.
It’s quite a significant birthday milestone for me in a few days time, and last weekend my wife arranged a pre-birthday party for me where many old friends and family came together for a quite enjoyable evening of dancing, drinking and going over old times together. It was a lovely evening. I received many, kind gifts that evening, and that is what has made this purchase possible, brought by friends and family if you like.
However, the good lady wife has stated that it must remain in its packed state until the house move is completed🤞
She’s not buying into my protestations that there will probably be a newer, and better model out by then.
I say more cameras, my wife begs to differ.. my friends agree with me.
Well, my wife would probably disagree with the above comment.
However, i have some very good friends who are quite happy to ignore my wife and her protestations. Some would say they are very brave…others would even say they are foolish. Time will tell.
A couple of beauties – you wouldn’t understand
Jon, is a friend and former work colleague that i have known for many years. We both worked at the same Kodak plant in Harrow, me on the graphics art film production track and Jon was in the training and development area. We rarely met there as the plant was so huge that our paths crossed quite infrequently. However Jon has also been the mainstay and life blood of a local football team since the early 70s, and it’s true to say he is a local legend and pillar of the community. This is how i really met Jon, and we have always discussed issues of photography, he is very much involved with promoting the armed forces and has been fortunate in the subject matter he has been asked to photograph. Needless to say, he has a lot of redundant equipment, and when he became aware of my blog site and the repairs i attempt to do, he very kindly donated a number of items for me to write posts about, and to be quite honest it will keep me busy for quite a long time.
A few items to keep me busy
The majority of the items probably just need a little service and a test session, a couple have some battery corrosion issues, but in general cosmetically, they are in good condition. We have a number of old lenses, but as you’d expect from someone who looks after their equipment, there isn’t a sign of haze or fungus in them. They just need a clean up, and very little else.
Here’s a list of what i have received, and observed after a very quick look at the items.
8 cameras:
1 Canon AE1 film camera and user manual, mirror was stuck, now freed up and firing ok but requiring a check over.
1 Canon EOS 30 film camera, a bad case of sticky body.
1 Canon EOS 10 film camera, issues unknown
2 Canon EOS 500N film cameras, issues unknown
1 Canon EOS 3000 film camera, issues unknown
Canon EOS 1N film cameras with E1 power drive, beautiful camera, issues unknown.
Canon EOS 7D digital camera with BG-E7 battery grip, stunning camera, issues unknown.
7 lenses: all Canon fit
2 x Canon FD 50mm 1:1.8
Tokina 300mm 1:5.6
Tokina 135mm 1:2.8
Tokina 35mm 1:2.8
Canon 75-300mm 1:4-5.6
Canon 28-80mm 1:3.5-5.6
There is a separate lens that i have been asked to look at and repair for him as it’s his third go to lens, that is a Canon EF 28-200 1:3.5-5.6 USM lens. It doesn’t focus in auto, i notice it has lens wobble and a lens washer appears to be exposed in the zoom section of the lens. It needs investigation.
Other items:
Canon Power winder-A. Part of the AE1 camera, you can smell its issue as you hold it, battery corrosion. Batteries inside have seriously corroded, however i believe the issue is salvageable.
Canon speedlite 199A flash gun, untested.
Metz 45 CT-1 flash, again there is corrosion in the battery pack, you can smell it. Again this should be salvageable.
Sangamo Euro master light meter and invercone. In excellent condition, could be that the selenium light cell is dead. Needs investigating.
8 rolls of film, expiry date 2005, may still work..who knows.
3 x 6v lithium batteries, all tested and working.
Add to that the two camera bags and a hard case that they all came in and I’m sure that you will agree that it was a pretty nice package to receive.
I’m extremely confident i can get these all into a good working condition, any cameras that i will not be keeping will either be sold on to benefit charities supported by Jon or donated to local charities for their benefit. Either way nothing will be heading to waste, that is a promise i have made to Jon and thats just how it will be, i do not break promises.
Thanks for passing by, and i will be posting articles on all these products in the coming months. As I already have 13 projects already in draft awaiting a time when i can back to repairing them, you can plainly see I’m going to be very busy for quite a while and should be able to supply quite a regular feed to this blog.
Wow. I’m a lucky cuss as Captain Sensible once sung.
The camera
Never really transitioning to digital photography properly, my dear lady wife took it upon herself to arrange an early birthday present for me after discussing technicalities with a photographer friend of ours. As I’m still stuck very much in the past with all my cameras (and anything else to be honest) they have decided to fully bring me over to the dark side and she has purchased me a full, mirrorless camera kit, yes the whole lot as a package apparently from someone similar to me, stuck in the past and not being able to master it. She’s brought me it as in her own words, “it was a bloody bargain, and I’d have been foolish to turn it down” so she thought of me and that was it. It’s a special birthday this year and she wanted to buy something special and this is it. She wanted me to have it now, as there is just too much of it to hide.
The full kit
It’s going to be a cracking setup allowing me to fully explore the large void I have regarding digital photography properly.
Here is what is included, an extract from the email between her and the seller:
A complete photography essentials bundle built around the superb Sony A7 II. Ideal for anyone seeking a high-quality full-frame mirrorless setup, whether upgrading or starting fresh, with everything needed to shoot immediately. All items were purchased new in 2023, barely used, and are in mint condition throughout. No scratches, scuffs, or marks. Everything has been stored with great care and is fully functioning. Included in the Bundle: – Sony A7 II Full-Frame Mirrorless Camera Body: Renowned for its incredible image quality, excellent dynamic range, and in-body stabilisation, the A7 II is perfect for serious photographers seeking a reliable, high-performance full-frame camera. ✅ Mint condition. – Sony OSS FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 Zoom Lens: A versatile all-rounder lens, ideal for landscapes, portraits, and everyday photography. Equipped with Sony’s Optical SteadyShot stabilisation for sharper handheld shots. Includes Original lens cap and lens hood plus Spare lens cap and spare lens hood. ✅ Mint condition. – Samyang AF 35mm f/1.8 FE Prime Lens: A fast, sharp, and lightweight prime lens, perfect for portraits, street photography, and creative work in lower light thanks to its wide f/1.8 aperture. Includes: • Lens cap • Lens hood • Lens shell (protective sleeve) ✅ Mint condition. – Sony F20M Detachable Flash Gun: Compact and effective external flash gun to elevate your low-light photography. Includes Sony velvet drawstring storage pouch and Two AAA batteries. Note: The only minor point is the missing hot shoe cover on the Sony F20M flash gun — this does not affect performance. The flash can be stored safely either attached to the camera or in the provided Sony velvet pouch. ✅ near mint condition. – Cleaning Essentials: • Giottos Rocket Dust Blower — perfect for safely removing dust from lenses and camera sensors. • A handful of lens wipes for easy on-the-go cleaning. – Aodelan Wireless Remote Shutter Release Kit: Ideal for tripod work, long exposures, or remote shooting without touching the camera. Reliable wireless connection. Ideal for starry sky photography and taking solo selfies on a mountaintop! – K&F Concept 64-Inch Aluminium Ball Head Adjustable Tripod: Durable tripod with adjustable height and ball head for precise positioning. Suitable for travel and studio work. Angle and height of legs are adjustable independently of each other which is ideal when resting it on rocky or uneven terrain. It can also be used “upside down” to shoot handsfree at ground level. ✅ mint condition, never used. – Vanguard Camera Kit Case: Sturdy, protective camera bag with organised compartments for carrying and storing your equipment securely. Compartments are adjustable with velcro edges. ✅ excellent condition – Sony Alpha Soft Carry Case: Original Sony-branded protective soft case for carrying and storing the A7 II R camera. This has a velcro lens hammock fitted inside so the camera with lens attached can be carried safely. ✅ near mint condition SD card NOT included. Additional Information: I paid £**** in total for these items. Happy to provide further details or additional photographs on request. Also more than happy to share images I have taken with this kit. Serious buyers only, please.
I apologise in advance if I start to show more photos on these pages, but fear not. It is and will always be a site dedicated to traditional photography, its equipment and repair, and that will never change.
I believe my wife is fed up with me carrying around old equipment and wishes for me to just “Get with it”
There is a definite method in her madness, bless her. Such a wonderful and thoughtful gift. As if I could love her anymore ❤️
No, I’m not talking about secret Russian radio stations, that seems to be all the information you can find, regarding ghost stations on the internet. This Ghost service station has popped up on DAB radio in the Uk, in Leicester, and there is no info that I can find about it online, and all that it seems to be broadcasting is someone making spooky ghost sounds. Have a look at this little video I made of it, only about 30 seconds long.
Spooky
I’m wondering if someone is having a laugh on this channel, maybe it’s on hold, just awaiting a new residency, who knows? I believe this is based somewhere in Leicester city as I’m unable to tune it, anywhere outside of the city limits. I’m surprised that our radio regulators at OFCOM are allowing it, however radio standards aren’t what they used to be nowadays.
Not one to give up on a project I have looked at a suitable donor camera and believe I have found one as detailed below. Only difference is that I had to buy two cameras as they came as a bundle. Not a problem as I can always do a separate post on the other one, the two have cost me a total of £15:00GBP bartered down from the original price of £30:00GBP. A bargain! So let’s just call it £7:50GBP per camera.
What the listing stated:
mamiya shutter button is stuck. red light on the right comes on. some external corrosion pictured
ricoh no power at all
EBay
The two cameras
Assessment:
The Mamiya is in quite a poor state, and is the Time Memory version that differs very slightly from the version I originally worked on, it’s essentially the same camera as the Mamiya M, but with an added quartz dating mechanism for imprinting time and date information on the film. This model was the last 35mm camera Mamiya produced before focusing solely on medium format. However the back seems to be a bit rusty whereas mine is in excellent condition, so I will be using a mix of the two units to make the one good one.
Repair:
The Mamiya looks good cosmetically until you open the rear and see the rust around the door, not a problem as I won’t be using this part of the camera. The red light does not come on at all and the shutter button is stuck, that’s for sure. The whole camera is dead.
Let’s get into it.
Once opened all looks ok so I decide to have a search around with the multimeter checking the basic operation. Am I getting 3 volts at the top of the battery barrel? No I’m not. It appears that one of the traces on the positive side of the power input board has lost continuity. For some reason the traces has been damaged, this could be either from corrosion or rubbing on something. The area affected is in the photo with the red ring around it.
The board top rightArea of no continuity
I’ve fixed this immediately using some solder to bridge the gap, I have checked continuity and all seems ok. I put some batteries in and the motor squeals like a banshee and then stops. You can hear the screaming motor below in the short video from its first screaming session through to its proper 80s sounding drone.
The screaming motor through to its repair
I don’t think this motor has run for years and it does not run consistently. I have sprayed it with some contact cleaner and let it soak. I have left it overnight and checked the operation in the morning and it seems to have improved.
I’ve used the original fascia, rear door, focussing beam and flash capacitor from the first failed unit, and apart from a few bits of soldering, plenty of contact cleaner and some silicone grease, I’ve revitalised a failing motor and it is now working as it should. I forgot to mention I used some graphite on the shutter leafs to “lubricate” them. All optics cleaned and camera has been tested without film and is working just fine.
View finder indications are good with light meter operational, motor rewind works, flash and exposure is fine, and the motor advances as well.
Result:
I’m really pleased with this little camera and am pleased I didn’t give up on it. It’s taken two broken cameras to make one good one, and I have a good few spare parts left over to be used at a later date.
Re assembly taking place
The unit looks so smart, the only real issue is the battery door that is notoriously flimsy and lots of references to its poor design can be found on line. A temporary way around this is just to put some tape across it to keep it closed.
That flimsy battery door
Beyond that issue, the camera is a really good looking unit that has cleaned up really well.
The completed camera
I can’t wait to run some film through it to see how it performs. I have a few cameras like this to test so I’m looking for some decent priced film to use, as i do need quite a bit.
As soon as I have some photographs availability I will link to this post accordingly.
Many thanks for following the repair, it’s always very much appreciated.
This is a Canon Powershot S5 IS Digital Bridge Camera which is faulty and sold for spares or repair only.
The camera is in excellent cosmetic condition but when switched on there is an error message saying lens error please restart camera (see photo).
It takes 4xAA batteries and SD cards (not supplied)
Canon Powershot S5 IS
A little bit about this camera:
Released in June 2007, the PowerShot S5 IS is the successor to the S3 IS model launched in April 2006, which was well received for its optical image stabilization, high zoom ratio and ample movie-shooting capabilities. Like its predecessor, the high-function, high-performance S5 IS features a 12x optical zoom lens equipped with a lens shift image stabilizer and realizes fast, quiet zoom performance by means of a high-speed Ultrasonic Motor (USM).
Compared with its predecessor, the PowerShot S5 IS delivers improved imaging performance through the incorporation of an 8.0-megapixel CCD sensor-increased from 6.0 megapixels in the S3 IS-and an upgrade to Canon’s high-performance DIGIC III image processor from the earlier model’s DIGIC II. Additionally, the S5 IS employs a 2.5-inch high-resolution (approximately 207,000 dots) vari-angle LCD monitor that offers a wide viewing angle to realize a high level of shooting flexibility, and includes a hot shoe for compatibility with Canon EX-series Speedlite flashes.
The new Canon PowerShot model supports the recording of high-quality movies by enabling users to make use of the camera’s optical zoom and Face Detection AF/AE functions. The S5 IS also offers an LP movie mode, which employs a higher rate of image compression to enable longer recording times for VGA movies, as well as high-quality stereo sound, and seamless transitions between the shooting of still images and movie recording.
Canon
I’ve been watching this one for a little while, it looks very good cosmetically and I’m surprised as I was the only one that bid on it. I’ve paid a total, including postage of £8:81GBP and I think that is an absolute bargain. An issue with these cameras has always been a motor/lens error. These motors within these cameras are an ultrasonic motor (USM) and to be totally honest they can be quite delicate and are known to give up as such, if even a grain of sand was to get stuck in the lens gear mechanism. They are delicate souls that don’t really like hard work 😂
A good clean is sometimes all that is needed to get these cameras working again, however I’m not going to get ahead of myself here, as I just don’t know what kind of pain the previous owner has inflicted on this camera. I just hope they have not been too brutal.
Assessment:
Now this is an absolutely beautiful looking little camera in pristine cosmetic condition. The previous owner has in fact been extremely careful and treated this camera very well.
The elephant in the room
The only issue that I can see is the one that flashes up on the screen, continuously when to turn on the camera. Even moving the telephoto/wide switch when starting up does not clear the fault. I really need to get the lens extended to see what’s going on. If I can do that without getting the screwdriver involved then that is even better.
Repair:
The lens remains stuck in the closed position despite there being movement with the lens iris, all other actions are as expected, just no extension of the lens turret. It does sound as if something is trying to move inside.
I’ve tried resetting and going back to factory defaults with no joy. I have been noticing though that when i put in a time and date, it is resetting every time i turn the camera off and then back on again. This is usually a sign that the small internal memory battery is dead, and as it’s probably been in the camera since 2007 it’s probably a good idea to change it. If I can find it. That is.
Internal memory battery located
Panic over I have found the memory battery (CMOS) it was located in the battery chamber beside the SD card slot. It’s a small CR1220 coin battery and I have one of these in my battery box, so this will be replaced as soon as I get it home, now replaced all is working as it should be.
Time setResets when powered down
Back to the error. The error is more often than not caused by something, even a grain of sand getting in the turret area and catching in the workings, as these cameras are so delicate. We have to somehow get into the turret area to see if we can dislodge whatever is causing the problem.
Lens turret no movement A strip of paper down the turret
I’d advise against using canned air here, as doing so would most probably dislodge the obstruction, however the route down the turret leads directly to the image sensor and you don’t want debris on that. Careful is the buzz word.
A strip of paper down the turret Released, and a clean with an optics cloth
I cut a small strip of paper and feed this down between the tiny gap between the lens and the body. I manoeuvre this around the full circumference of the lens, and as I do I can feel some slight resistance as if something is there. I go around again and that resistance has gone. I turn the camera on and still there is no extension of the turret. At this point I put the mode dial on the camera into video mode and then turn it on. Straight away the turret extends and what looks like some grains of dirt fall from the lens area, at last we have the lens extended and there is an image on the LCD screen.
We have successfully freed the lens turret
I clean the lens turret with an optics cloth and you can see it was very dusty inside, there had definitely been some debris enter this area causing the issue.
I operated the on off button a number of times to ensure the turret motion was smooth, and it was. There are no further obstacles in this area, causing the mechanism to seize.
Test photos
I have taken a number of test photos trying out all modes and features and the camera is just perfect.
The camera is now working
The camera operating as it should
I’ll show a few more photos below, once I have been able to download them.
Result:
This camera is simply a little beauty. It is probably one of the best looking of the later generations of bridge cameras but maybe not the best photo quality wise at 8mp. But who cares though, when you are as good looking as this?
The handsome devil
The camera is pristine in my eyes, and for just over £8GBP this is a bargain. These fixes do not always involve a total dismantling of the item, sometimes it is so simple it’s unbelievable. Here I used a piece of paper and a lens cloth, that’s all. Now a camera destined for an old box in the loft and then the tip has been saved to carry on taking photos for a good few years yet. In fact here are a few photos that I have taken randomly around work, and around my garden.
I’m probably going to use this camera with its pivoting screen to construct videos to display on this site regarding future repairs, I’m going to ensure it gets good usage under my ownership.
Did I tell you how much I love this camera and how handsome it is? Oh, I did, sorry about that, I get really carried away with these older cameras, I just wish everyone else could get as excited as I do, and maybe so many of these wonderful machines wouldn’t then, just get thrown out with the bath water.
Thanks for passing by. It’s always most appreciated.
Yes. 30 years ago today on the 30th July 1995 I was at Milton Keynes Bowl in Buckinghamshire Uk with one of my buddies. We had taken the train from Watford on a lovely sunny day to watch what was our new favourite band at the time, never knowing that very soon they would occupy a place in my heart as my favourite band of all time. And 30 yrs later my wife will attest to me randomly putting on the music, only to tell me to turn that noise down, she really is a heathen 😂
We were fortunate that day to have three superb support bands who would go on to carve their own little parts of music history The Cranberries, Sleeper and Radiohead.
Back in the early days of the bowl they had a strange system in place where they didn’t accept money to purchase beer, you had this weird system where you had to go and purchase “tokens” before the gates opened, to use as your currency within the stadium. If you didn’t purchase enough or any tokens at all, then it was tough – you would be having a dry old day. I remember purchasing plenty, I was paying the price for days after – no pity for me it was all self imposed.
Here’s the set list for the day. It was also broadcast live on the BBC’s Radio one.
Set list
It was a cracking day out and a day that would stick with me throughout my life, as I became a fan that would now follow them,whenever they came back to the Uk. The last time I saw them was in Hyde Park London just after the London bombings, on 16th July 2005.
Man I really miss them. I’ve always said if they were to reform just for one concert anywhere in the world, then I would be there. The wife has always been on standby should that date ever be announced.
But I doubt it ever will, but we can only live in a constant state of hope. We all need that bit of hope in our lives.
In the meantime, I’ll just go and crank that stereo up to eleven, just so I can hear the wife shout at me one more time 😂.
A bit of a different one here, i get into work one day earlier this week, to be told that one of my colleagues in a different area (Nottingham) will be calling with something to discuss. That call occurred today and the discussion was about his home theatre surround sound system that had packed up on him, and would I be willing to look at it for him to see if I could manage a repair. Though it’s something I don’t usually do repairs on, I said why not? I need to look into other areas of repair and as long as it wasn’t urgent and there was no urgency, then I’d certainly look into it for him. It turns out there is no hurry and he will get the item down to me in the next few days.
So I now have a task, that I am really quite excited about. And for obvious reasons I want to do a good job.
Here’s a little bit about this item
With the power to fill large rooms with THX certified sound, this cutting-edge receiver is ready to integrate and distribute entertainment throughout your home. More than a home cinema processor, the TX-NR717 allows you to access music on PC, stream from MP3 tunes, explore online radio, or connect your iPod/iPhone to one of two USB ports. You can distribute any of these various stereo sources to other rooms for house-wide entertainment. With a total of 10 HDMI connections, this receiver converges HD content from all your components – even your smart phone media via a front side MHL/HDMI – and provides easy input selection with InstaPrevue technology. HDMI also enables intuitive GUI with overlaid quick set-up menu. Video upscaling to 4K, Audyssey DSX seven-channel sound expansion, and Audyssey 2EQ room correction are all included. Sound quality is quite simply the best in class, with powerful WRAT amplifier, three-stage inverted Darlington circuitry, and discrete output stage components delivering an otherworldly entertainment experience.
Onkyo TX-NR717 – AV network receiver – 7.2 channel – black
Release date: April 2012
Onkyo
I’m looking forward to this project, a little out of my comfort zone, but it’s the best way to learn about how these things work. And I need some exposure to these types of systems and the issues that can occur within them.
Assessment:
This unit has just about reached its teenage years, and if this can’t be repaired then the owner will be looking at his alternatives. However replacement units have also grown in both features and price now, so if this current box of tricks can be given an extended lease of life then everyone is a winner, and one less item gets to go to landfill.
I have downloaded both the instruction manual and the service manual, so I am equipped with a full list of components as well as the official schematic diagrams of the circuitry layout. I’m suitably prepared for this one.
The report from my work colleague is that it was working fine up until a week ago when it would just not switch on. He has replaced the two quick blow fuses that he saw when he opened the unit, however the issue still remains. He hears clicking when he turns the system on, this could be an issue in the standby circuit, however I will have to wait to have the unit in my possession to investigate this any further.
Straight to the point…just how I like it
Just got a message from one of my colleagues at work to say the parcel from Nottingham has been collected. Just love the straight to the point way these guys inform me of any safety issues and concerns they may have 😂
More surprises
And on opening the box, more surprises. Biscuits, they are my downfall, and don’t ask about the Aubergine, we won’t go there, that’s a private joke 🤦♂️
A bit dusty
Right, serious head on now and I’ve plugged the unit into the mains and without touching anything at all, all I can hear is a metronomic clicking that appears to be emanating from the power board circuit area. This will be my first port of call.
Repair:
There are two well known issues regarding these units and I am going to look at both of these before getting in any deeper. The first issue is around the relay and its associated 150 Ohm resistor on the main power board, the second issue is around a defective capacitor on the standby board, and eliminating one issue will either highlight, or clear the other. If both issues are addressed with no change to operation, I will have to look in to the issue a little deeper.
Issue one relates to a problem with the relay on the main power board. Most people don’t realise this but pressing the power button on an Onkyo receiver does NOT turn off the power. The power button merely sends a signal to the MAIN CPU telling it to close a relay (to turn the system on) or open a relay (to turn it off). When you press the power button on an Onkyo and nothing happens (no clicks, no brief lighting up of the front panel) the root cause is often a blown coil in the main power relay.
Main relay is the item under the thick coating of white silicone at the top of the picture
Beside the relay to the left is a resistor that should be reading 150 Ohms. This particular one is reading 144 Ohms so is reading a bit lower than expected. This could be sufficiently low enough to allow the relay to fail. So at this point this looks like a possible point of failure. Either way they need to be replaced before we can advance any further.
Silicone removed. The faulty resistor is within the red circle
I need to obtain these parts, the relay will need to be shipped from China, and I need to check my resistor stock to see if I have a suitable replacement resistor. The relay also should have a similar resistance to the resistor beside it, the healthy range for the relay is between 80-200 Ohms.
Both components removedThe components
I have removed both components from the board to test them out of circuit.
The resistor beside the 9v relay is a 150 Ohm rated resistor. This one reads at 144 Ohms and is to the lower end of the rating of +/- 5%, it would probably suffice, but i’m going to replace this one just in case. The only other resistor in this circuit is a 47 Ohm resistor and that reads exactly as it is rated, so there is no issue there. I believe the bone of contention here is that the relay is 9v sitting upon a 12v power rail. This is probably the reason issues have occurred with these units in the past, and looking at a number of forum posts, it is quite acceptable, even recommended to use the higher voltage 12V versions. I’m sticking to the original design on this repair though, I can only presume the 150 Ohm resistor placed just before the relay has something to contribute in controlling the operation of this relay. Maybe that’s a design fault within this model, I just don’t know!
144 OhmsThe resistor I will replace
I have tested the relay using a multimeter and a 9v battery. I have used the battery to short across the power poles where I can hear the relay clicking, but when the relay is on there is no continuity across the other two pins when there should be, this isn’t happening so I suspect this relay is stuck in the open position. The Ohms rating across the pins shows 336 Ohms, so i am lead to believe this could be a problem with the coil inside it, as it shouldn’t really be that high. I understand from what I have read, that a rating between 80-200 Ohms is classed as acceptable, and outside this range could indicate that there is an issue. I’ll just have to wait until the new relay arrives and carry out some tests to see the comparison between the old and the new relays.
336 Ohms is that an issue?
I’ve dismantled the cover from the relay to get a look at the coil. In the little video below you will see the coil switching, however you will also see the contacts meeting but there is no continuity. The contacts have a coating of contamination on them probably from age or arcing, it looks like a carbon deposit, as when they adjoin there is no contact made, no flow or continuity, unless you put light pressure on the contact and then you get the continuity. It is at fault, it shouldn’t be doing this. A clean of the contacts might breathe some life into it, however give it a couple of months and you’d probably have to remove it again, and the contamination isn’t the only issue, don’t forget the relay reading that appears too high. A new relay costs less than £4:50GBP delivered from the other side of the world, so I might just as well go for a new relay. It makes sense.
Inside that failed relay
I’m not going to venture any deeper into this unit yet, not until these components arrive and I can get them back into place. I want to move through this fix confidently and slowly, have a better understanding of what is going on and not leave myself confused with bits and pieces everywhere, clueless to what is occurring. I wouldn’t achieve anything by working like that. Knowledge is king here and I’m here to learn. And I do now have the schematics available to follow.
I’ll have to wait about 2 weeks for the relay to arrive so I’ll just have to put this repair to one side and on hold until then.
Ok the new relay has arrived and the first test I did on it was to take an Ohms reading of the coil side. Now if you have paid attention, you will have seen that the old relay was reading 336 Ohms when it should be somewhere between 80-200 ohms. This new relay is reading 158 Ohms and I feel a lot better about that, it falls right in between the expected spec.
Old relay reading on the left versus new relay on the right
And if you want to see the relay actually working and displaying continuity then have a browse at this video below, the polar opposite to the first video I posted above 👆
The new relay with good continuity
The resistors I ordered have now come through and have been tested, I have a couple of candidates displaying better test results, so we can now look at getting these two components back in place to see what occurs.
I’ve put in place a new resistor, slightly higher value than the previous one coming in at 147.4 Ohms. It falls within the 5% tolerance so should be fine.
147.4 Ohms
The relay has been soldered back in place, really simple just four points to solder and we can now reassemble the power board back into the chassis.
Attach transformer and ac jumpers Board secured back into chassis
I’ve taken the unit into the garden at my wife’s request, as I have to use some high pressure air to give it a good blast to get rid of some dust and furballs. This has worked well and quite a dust cloud was witnessed across the garden, it’s fair to say it’s a lot cleaner inside than it was.
I’ve now put the case back on and the unit is now sealed from prying eyes and inquisitive fingers. I’ve given the entire case a good polish and I must admit it is looking nice and shiny and very presentable. I just have to hope and pray that it turns on. I see no reason as to why it shouldn’t but you just never know. You can always fix one problem only to be chasing it around the system as it develops into another fault, repairs can sometimes go like that.
Let’s plug it in and see what happens 🤞
Result:
I’ve plugged it in and turned the power on. No bang, only silence, just a single click when the power went on, this is good. When the power is turned off you hear the standby relay do the same, all is as it should be.
Front RearFrom above
The standby relay has clicked in when turned on at the power socket, and is not repeating that metronomic sound that was there originally. Superb. Now to turn the power button on, on the front panel.
We have a display. Excellent it is working.
StandbyDisplayAll buttons operational
All buttons are operational, I don’t have the surround sound speakers as they are at the owners house in Nottingham, i also don’t have the remote here that also allows me to do other tasks, however that is not important as the unit is now operational and displaying what it should, and once it goes back into his media wall with all his speakers and other related sound and Av equipment, i am confident beyond doubt that it will be operating just as it did prior to this issue developing.
I will be handing it back with the advice that should the issue occur again we look at updating the relays with new 12v versions to replace the current 9v ones. But I doubt the problem will re occur, and this repair should see out the next few years at least and by then this unit will probably be sold, or passed on to someone else when he decides to upgrade his system.
Below is the little video I sent my colleague showing him the unit now working
It’s now working
But for now, it works. I am pleased as punch with this repair as I have stepped out of my normal comfort zone here. I have been extra vigilant, studied many a schematic diagram and learned a lot from this project. I didn’t rush ahead of myself and took this repair one little bit at a time, testing all along the way and addressing each issue in the order that it has arisen. And I’m damned happy with that.
It’s been a learning project for me, and I’m glad I’ve undertaken it. Life is for learning, and I’m living that life.
Many thanks for passing by, as you well know it is always very much appreciated.
Edit:
Today the 29th July I have had a message back from my colleague to say that he now has the unit back in his media wall. And I’m pleased to say it’s working perfectly. He’s very pleased and so am I.
Back in place and working fine
He’s pestering me to bill him, but I’ve told him that I’m only taking one currency and that’s not money or crypto. No, my method of payment will be in Biscuits. I told you I’m a Cookie Monster and this entire repair only cost just £4:17GBP. That’s not a lot of Cookies, but it’s credit in the bank if these guys need any further repairs carrying out. Word of mouth, works wonders.
Nikon Nikkor 28-100mm Zoom Auto Focus Lens F3.5-5.6 G
It will autofocus with: Df-D1-D1x-D1H-D2-D2x-D2xs-D3-D3x-D3S-D50-D70-D70s-D80-D90-D7000-D100-D200-D300-D300s-D600-D610-D700-D750-D780-D800-D810-D850-D7000-D7100-D7200-D7500 & Fuji S1, S2, S3,S5
This lens will not autofocus with : D40-D40x-D60-D3000-D3100-D3200-D3300-D3500-D3600-D5000-D5100-D5200-D5300-D5500-D5600 as these cameras do not have integrated autofocus motors in their bodies, but it will still work with manual focus and auto exposure as it has a “chip” mount.
It will also work Nikon 35mm AF film cameras: F80, F90/90x, F75, F70, F65, F60, F55, F50, F80, F90/90x, F101, F100, F401.
Comes with front / rear lens caps
EBay
Anyone that has followed my recent repair of the camera: Fujifilm Finepix S2 Pro will be aware that I purchased a lens as a test lens for working on some stock that required a Nikon mount. I went cheap and purchased a lens that was so badly affected with lens fungus that it will require a deep clean and some TLC. Anyway, it allowed me to test electrical contacts and all the menus, and that was about it, it served a purpose there, but taking a picture was like looking into a deep fog, it was hopeless. Anyway that lens is now set aside and will become one of those projects to dig into on a long winter evening…or two, or three.
As I have a number of Nikon based cameras needing assessment on the horizon, some with sensor issues, i have made the decision to pay a little more for some quality, from a company called AP photographic who specialise in quality used equipment, a company that is based close to where i used to live down in the south. This Lens has cost me £58:95GBP including postage, a fair but good price for some peace of mind. This post will not be a repair post as there is nothing wrong with this lens, it will be more of an assessment of the lens when used with the Fuji S2 pro i featured in a previous post.
Nikon Nikkor 28-100mm Zoom Auto Focus Lens F3.5-5.6
I’ve put this post up to show the difference in the pictures taken on the S2 with both the old lens as well as this lens. I think the results will show quite a noticeable contrast and confirm just how restrictive a lens is when it is infected with a fungus problem.
Assessment:
The lens has arrived
The lens arrived within a couple of days and is in perfect condition. It has a lens cap and bayonet cap so is perfectly protected against dust dirt and damage from foreign objects. And when the lens cover is removed there is another little surprise, a post it note saying “Filter is a free gift” that just happens to be attached to a daylight filter. Nice little touch 👌
Nice touch
Lens is a perfect fit, no aperture ring on it as it is fully automatic, full autofocus. I’m not sure how the flash will work with this lens though when I use the Fuji S2 Pro, as that body works best with a fully closed lens aperture, but I’m sure I’ll be able to work it all out and get it functioning as it should. And I did, i played with the Aperture settings in “A” mode and it works just fine. It’s faultless.
Attached to the Fuji S2 Pro
That said on the S2 it not only looks good, it takes good pictures. Compared to the lens I last used this one is crystal clear, not a bit of fungus no aberrations and not a speck of dirt. This is a good lens and will serve me well for the purpose of testing other equipment I have awaiting attention. I think I’ve purchased a good example here.
Result:
I can confirm that the Fuji S2 Pro does not have a thing wrong with it and is working perfectly. All modes, all conditions are performed just as they should be. This lens is gorgeous as it is so clear and has been so well looked after. I believe this whole unit will be the one I wander about with when i go out on my walks. I can’t wait to take some serious photos to post.
A quick comparison fungus lens v clear lens as seen on the camera LCD screen
I took some pictures just randomly around the home setting with the old lens to show how foggy things were with the lens fungus. I have tried to take some more photos of the same locations with the new lens as well to just show how they compare and these can be seen in the pictures grouped below.
Before and after pictures, what a difference the fungus has had on the results.
All these pictures are on an old CF card so it is a bit of a palaver to get them on to new technology, but it is doable, it just takes a little time, and this gadget allows me to load numerous card types even the CF cards direct to my iPhone via a lightning connector. It also has a USB-C connector for other phones. It works really well as you can see in all the pictures in this post.
Multiple media cards direct to my iPhone
And below are a few random photos taken on the S2, it has a good black and white mode but is quite heavy on contrast. Post editing would probably be recommended, but to be honest I really love its moody appearance.
4 random photos in and around the house. And Tabs the feral cat popped by
This camera and this lens have proved fantastic. I know you can get far superior picture sizes and quality on a basic mobile phone, but where the heck is the fun in that? This camera cost me £8:00GBP. Just £8:00. And it is a superb camera that will be going on many trips with me as I just love it and how it looks. I now know it intimately after reading up on it and testing it, and cannot wait to put that knowledge to use.
Cameras are better than mobile phones. Old ones like this are fun, and an absolute privilege to use. It’s not all about the Megapixels, just remember these old cameras were the ones taking high quality professional pictures back in their day. Just because time moves on, and just like an elderly old lady or gentleman, they should not be discarded because they no longer serve a purpose. Respect the older technology, learn from it and you will ultimately become a wiser person yourself. Oldies rule! Never forget it. 👊
Thank you so much for passing by. It’s always very much appreciated.
ALL ITEMS IN THIS LISTING ARE FAULTY FAULTS MAY VARY BETWEENS ITEMS
SOLD AS IS
NO RETURNS
EBay
Fujifilm Finepix S8000fd
I’ve purchased three cameras as a job lot in an auction. All of them have issues but the issues have not been clarified. This is very much a “Suck it and see” auction where I get what I’m given. I’ve paid £24:22GBP for all three and that includes free postage. I’ve purchased from this seller before who is a bonafide Camera business based in South Wales. He has no time for faulty items though, quick in and out is his way of working, no time to fix stuff. I’ve got three good cameras in this bundle and this works out at just about £8:00GBP per camera. And where can you get cameras like this for those prices nowadays.
I really don’t know what the specific issues are with this camera, only that it appears to have the mode selector dial missing from its top. I guess we will just have to wait it’s arrival for a full assessment. In the meantime here is a little bit about it.
With the release of the FinePix S8000fd, Fujifilm brings to market a smart-looking digicam with an 8-megapixel imager, one of the longest zoom lenses in the market plus a compact, and relatively light, camera body. The cheapest of three similarly featured long zoom cameras in the current market (see table below for a feature comparison), the S8000fd has the distinction of being able to use both xD-Picture Card and SD cards (including SHDC), which are fitted in a single dual-format slot. Release date July 2007.
Photo review newsletter
Assessment:
Well, to be honest, for potentially the worst camera in the box of the three that were purchased, it works just fine. Apart from that missing mode selector dial on the top of the camera. You have to use a pair of tweezers to get each mode to appear, but they are all there and the zoom and flash all work and it takes pictures fine, just as it should.
Tidy unit – workingFlash operates All menus available Mode dial – missing
Apart from the issue with the dial, all that is really needed is a little clean up, and even that isn’t that bad.
It does not justify being used as spares and is far too good to just be disposed of. I’m going to try and repair this.
What a bonus!
A little bonus was that there was a 1Gb SD card in the memory slot that works. There were also 4 rechargeable batteries in the camera that after a while on my charger, have fully recharged, and this makes the deal an even better one and quite a bargain to be honest with you.
Repair:
I’ve tested all systems, menus and functions on this camera and there really is nothing else wrong with it. It’s far too good to be used as a spares camera and deserves to be repaired.
Missing mode selector dial
I have two options here, either buy the mode selector dial on its own from our friends in China, or buy another donor camera in a far worse state and available for about the same price as getting the dial from China. I just have to wait for that donor camera to first become available. I’ll give it a couple of weeks and if nothing comes up then China it is.
In preparation for whatever route I decide to take, I’ve decided to do some prep on the old camera and get the old selector dial mechanism taken out ready for the new dial to be put in place.
I’ve dismantled the camera unit to be able to access what is left of the mode dial switch.
Back is off Switch unit and ribbon cableSwitch removed It’s basically a two piece potentiometer type setup
This wasn’t too awkward to dismantle, half a dozen screws and a small plastic prise tool was all that was required to reach this point. There was some protectorate covering the metal frame of the switch housing that was contained by four tiny screws. Once this was loosened the housing came away and I was able to remove what was left of the old mode dial that had originally been in place. There wasn’t a lot left.
Remains of previous dial
The camera now sits in this position of being dismantled whilst I source a new dial to replace. As stated I have two options of buying a new dial either from China, or by getting a damaged camera as a spares source, and I’m currently looking at the latter as this could be purchased for about the same price as the dial from China, and would allow me a few more spares.
I’ve purchased another unit as a donor. The unit in question has a damaged LCD screen. I’m going to use that camera as a donor for the mode dial I require.
The donor camera has arrived. And to be honest it looks ok. It has been dropped at some time as the lens has a scratch on it, and the Rear LCD screen is damaged. That’s about it.
A good looking donor camera, the only issue being the damaged LCD screen
I’ve taken some pictures with this unit and the camera is working fine, as you can still view pictures you have taken through the viewfinder. It works ok, but I need this mode switch to fix another camera, so i’ll probably just use what remains as spare parts due to that scratch on the lens.
Let’s get the donor camera disassembled to harvest that mode switch.
There are only about six screws to get the back of the camera taken from the body, you just have to be careful not to damage the ribbon cable that is connected to the mode dial assembly that we are going to use today.
The two cameras, and the mode dial assembly we need to fix the original camera
I did all the disassembly of the original camera to save time, and it took about 5 minutes to get the donor camera stripped down. Once inside there is some insulating material covering the switch assembly, this has to be removed but cannot be reused as it has lost its adhesion. When reassembled I have used electrical Kapton tape to replace the original insulation. This has worked just fine.
New Kapton tape insulation
Assembly involves checking that the button settings relate to the markings on the camera body, this is important at this stage as the last thing you want to do is reassemble the camera to find out that you have the dial in the wrong setup. Do it now and save time and reduce the possibility of damaging the connectors and body clips.
Before and after
Result:
We have a beautifully restored and working and fully functional bridge camera that takes good snapshot photos. It’s not high end, it’s very much a learner camera but good at documenting what’s going on around you. Its mode dial that was missing is now working fine. A little polish and it has come up looking lovely cosmetically. it’s a good little unit.
The camera has come up lovely and is now complete and fully operational
Here are a selection of snapshots from around the home just to prove it’s working as it should. Nothing special, it just does what it was always built to do. Take snap shots.
It works. I’m happy. And another camera has been saved from landfill.
Thank you for passing by, as always it’s most appreciated.
Foxes Den 
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