Remember this? Everyone had one around 1978 apart from me that is. Well, now I’ve got one, only 47 yrs late and it doesn’t work. But hey that’s what this site is all about, and that’s how I roll. Always late to the party, and even then you’ll probably find me in the kitchen 🥳
What the listing said:
Cosmetically in very good condition but does not work. Please see attached pictures to judge condition for yourself.
EBay
Another one with all battery covers! I’m shocked. And what’s that screwdriver there for?
The guy was after £17:00GBP and that included postage, but I put in a cheeky bid and managed to get it with postage for £9:80GBP. Anything under a tenner is good in my eyes.
Here’s some history:
Simon is an electronic game of short-term memory skill invented by Ralph H. Baer and Howard J. Morrison, working for toy design firm Marvin Glass and Associates, with software programming by Lenny Cope. The device creates a series of tones and lights and requires a user to repeat the sequence. If the user succeeds, the series becomes progressively longer and more complex. Once the user fails or the time limit runs out, the game is over. The original version was manufactured and distributed by Milton Bradley and later by Hasbro after it took over Milton Bradley. Much of the assembly language code was written by Charles Kapps, who taught computer science at Temple University and also wrote one of the first books on the theory of computer programming. Simon was launched in 1978 at Studio 54 in New York City and was an immediate success, becoming a pop culture symbol of the 1970s and 1980s.
Wikipedia
From what i can see in the pictures the item seems good, cosmetically. I may be able to see just a little contamination around the battery contacts but I can’t be sure. It worries me when i see a picture that shows a screwdriver alongside the item you are buying, it just screams at me that the seller has been in side and is not being truly honest about its issues. Let’s just wait until it arrives to do a full assessment. I’m genuinely excited about getting this working, as my age veers ever closer to the higher numbers. I need something to stimulate my mind, what’s left of it. 😂
Assessment:
The unit has arrived and on first impressions looks clean and tidy cosmetically. The pads are not very responsive and the battery contacts are seriously corroded. The unit is a power hungry beast, taking two ”D” cell 1.5v batteries and one PP9 9v battery. The unit does not work with its batteries in place, and i’m not surprised really, and to round it all off two screws are missing from the case, and one screw mount is broken. All four plastic springs that sit under the coloured pads are broken, and just to clarify someone has already been in here and it doesn’t bode well. My previous concerns of a screwdriver being in the original photos have been confirmed. It’s been tampered with.
Broken screw mounts and contamination Bad contacts – contaminated Pads unresponsive due to broken plastic spring mounts
The board is a typical of many circuit boards from this era that were produced for MB. I had a similar circuit board on this item here: MB – Computer Battleship
Top of boardUnderneath the boardYou can see the board structure that is typical for this era. The contact points are indicated by the red arrow marks.
In the picture above you will see two arrowed points. These points are the power contacts that make contact with the two seriously corroded battery contacts you can also see above. No wonder there is no power getting to the board. I suspect this might be the cause of our electrical problem.
Repair:
First thing to do is to get those battery contacts cleaned, as well as having a good clean of the main board. This has now been done. I’ve repaired the broken screw post by simply using a rubber washer that has been sufficient for this repair.
Contacts before and after
A friend of mine has kindly offered to print me off four of the “Double Y” springs to replace the ones that are already in place and broken. He owes me a favour or three and needs some subject matter to run through his new 3D printer so I’m very pleased to help him, as pending the outcome I may well buy one myself, as I have been threatening to do so for a while now. This should sort out the issue of the unresponsive pads, first found in the assessment of the item. He’s panicking that they might not be smooth and beautiful, I’ve told him not to worry as they are hidden inside anyway.
What I currently have on the left, what I’m expecting on the right
He’s just supplied me with five double “Y” pieces just in case one is damaged in some way. Let’s get these put in place to see the difference these make.
Out with the oldIn with the new
With the new springs in place the pads are working as they were originally designed to, now with some springiness in their operation. The battery contacts have now also been put back in place.
Cleaned contacts back in place
When assembled, the buttons are a little erratic and not always responsive so I decide to look into this further. A quick Look at the board shows that the solder contacts on the board for all of the button connections are worn, the solder has failed so I decide to reflow all these solder joints to improve the contacts. This appears to have worked as the unit when reassembled, now has uninterrupted operation. This is an age related issue. A simple fix.
Old solder joints that have failed and needed re-flowing
Result:
Another 47 year old saved from the scrap heap, it’s been an interesting and sometimes confusing repair and I thank my friend who stepped in to save the day by utilising his 3D printer to make some parts. Without his assistance this repair would not have been achievable.
Looking smart after a quick clean
It’s just another old piece of retro history to add to my ever growing collection and much to my wife’s dismay. Bless her.
Now working
Thanks for passing by, as always it’s very much appreciated.
Yes another one. Anyone that reads what I post will realise that these little cameras have really become popular with the youngsters within our family. I recently posted about a family get together: The garden gathering and in this post I stated that a young member of the family liked these cameras so much, that she went out and purchased a damaged one and asked if I could fix it for her. How could I turn down such an offer?
Another Instax mini 8 and that Iris should be closed
And here it is. Needs a little clean and immediately I can see an issue, what I’ve noticed is that the little iris lens protectors that close when the lens is retracted are missing, or not operating and opening properly. Everything else seems to be doing what it should, motor, film transport system etc, however the initial issue reported with this camera was that it’s exposure was sometimes hit and miss, it most definitely all related to the lens issue. A good clean wouldn’t go amiss with some extra attention paid to the light sensor area.
Anyway, enough chat, let’s crack on.
Assessment:
A nice tidy camera, needs a little clean, flash fires, film transport mechanism inside is working and the motor runs. It gives the impression that it is working fine, however….
Here’s a reminder from the young family member who made the purchase, regarding its issues:
I’ve just remembered, I think the advert said something about the photos coming out dark no matter what setting it is on! x
I’d already noticed the little iris mechanism on the front of the lens didn’t open and close when the camera was turned on, so I was going to be looking in this area anyway. But when I looked a little closer and moved the aperture ring on the side of the lens, the relative apertures in the lens were only moving to roughly the half way point, off centre, hence there was no corresponding fully positioned aperture, and in relation to the lighting situation that was presented, they were stuck and blocking the incoming light. In a nutshell there was not a sufficient sized aperture “hole” for any light to get through, resulting in the exposure issue stated above. This needs adjusting. You can see what I mean in the photo below. The lens aperture leaf does not sit central in the lens.
Incorrect aperture settings and positioning in the lens
Apart from the highlighted problems above, i don’t believe there are any other underlying issues. So I’m going to concentrate on the front of the camera solely in the lens turret area.
Let’s get on with the repair.
Repair:
The iris issue is within the lens turret so this will need to be dismantled to access the iris.
Lens top cover removed exposing the iris mechanism below
It was a bit of a head scratcher this one, as I spent a lot of time just staring at the mechanism trying to figure out how it worked. When the iris lids were manually manipulated to the closed position when the turret was retracted all was fine. When the turret was opened up the iris lens did the same, but then if you again retracted the lens the iris remained open exposing the lens. I was thinking it must be missing a spring somewhere and I was about to be proved right.
I found a replacement iris turret in my spares box for instax cameras
I found a replacement iris mount that fits within the lens turret. I had this in a spare box and used this as a reference to compare to the old non operating one. Here is where it was confirmed that there was a spring missing and this is why the iris was not operating.
Spring missingSpring in place The old iris mechanism compared to the working one
I replaced the old mechanism with the new one and this was installed back in the camera, this now works fine. I have however found a suitable spring for the old iris so I do now have another spare ready should another be needed in the future.
Iris mechanism installed and now working
The issue with the aperture positioning has been sorted by ensuring that the aperture ring is correctly positioned in relation to the cog mechanism in the lens turret area. It’s a bit like sorting out the timing belt in a car, it just has to be in the right position to achieve the correct aperture settings.
Springs and levers everywhere, and the “Timing” cog on the right that is in the turret area
This sorted, the last thing to do was to give the viewfinder a little clean. You have to be very careful here as the viewfinder is connected to the camera “ready to shoot” indicating light, and there are very fine wires all around this area. Be just a bit too clumsy here and you’d have a difficult soldering project to also add to the original problems. Anyway, no such issues today, the viewfinder was un clipped and prisms and glass cleaned and reassembled. All looking good.
Viewfinder and lots of little wires
I’m now happy that all the issues have been attended to and I’m just going to reassemble the camera ready for a quick clean. Luckily all the screws that came out went back in with none leftover. Result!
Result:
We now have a nice little unit, all aperture settings are working as they should and the lens iris is operating as it was always supposed to do. The viewfinder has also been cleaned and it’s now a nice clear unobstructed view. It just works.
All cleaned and now working, a lovely little camera
I’m guessing this camera will be coming away with the owner on a family holiday that we are all about to embark on shortly. I’m hoping to run some film through this soon but I am ultra confident it will work as all the issues have now been addressed.
I’ve just got some film and rattled off 4 quick shots, one of them indoors. Exposures are fine so I’m happy this is a perfectly good working camera.
4 quickly produced shots
I’m sure there will be one younger member of the family who will be very happy with her new camera. And may she have many years of capturing good times and fantastic memories. This is what these little cameras are made for after all.
Thanks for passing by, it’s always very much appreciated.
I arrived home from work last evening to find my nephew at home. He’d been looking around his mum and dad’s attic to find his old star wars toy collection he had from the 80s-90s. Whilst in the loft he found this old toy from 1985 by a company called Yonezawa being sold under the Grandstand branding, and it isn’t working. Here is where it passes over to uncle Dave.
Uncle Dave, it’s not working
There’s no real value to these toys as they were produced in massive quantities off the back of all the transformer type toys that were available at the time. There are some accessories missing from this one that are obtainable via the auction sites, he may well ask me to source these, but at the moment he just wants me to get it working to pass onto his boys. The video below shows just what it does….and that’s not a lot. But the one I have here is totally dead and needs reviving just like Frankenstein.
Deltatron what it should do
So here we go…
Assessment:
My overriding surprise is that this has been in a loft space for close to 30 yrs and does not have that expected damp mustiness that usually comes with such an item. I must say, my brother in laws loft space is an exception, it’s obviously free from excessive moisture, mind you it’s only about 40 yrs old so building standards had probably advanced somewhat from when ours was built about 90 yrs ago.
It’s in a good condition and all its parts are there minus a few little additions that originally came with the toy. But as I have stated earlier these parts can be obtained on line if required.
Right, let’s have a look at what is or isn’t happening here…
Repair:
When batteries are installed and the remote control is operated, all that happens is that a light comes on in the toy. The motion that is required is non existent.
The motor unitMotor removed, there is a cog mechanism to move the unitThe motor unit removed
When examined closer you can see there is a lot of surface rust on the side of the motor where the contacts go into the unit.
Really rustyQuick clean later
The contacts were so rusty inside the motor unit that you’d get an intermittent running of the motor if you moved them. I’ve checked continuity and solder joints and they were fine. I’ve injected some contact cleaning spray into the motor and sat there manipulating the motor in both directions for about 5 minutes, this was sufficient to get the motor running freely once power was reapplied. The contacts were dirty and restricting the flow of power to the motor. I decided to use some IPA around the area to give it all a good clean and once again sprayed more contact cleaner through the motor.
Contact cleaner and silicone grease
Once I’d run the motor for a few minutes in both directions I then applied some silicone grease to the cogs and moving parts to allow a smoother operation. It’s worked. A nice simple fix.
Result:
It’s working and here’s a small video to prove it.
It’s now working
I’ve already handed it back and it’s a joy to see the smiles on my nephew and his dad’s face when they watched it working. Such a simple thing, bringing back treasured memories and laughs. Another old toy saved for another generation and best of all another item not going to a landfill.
Thanks for passing by, as always it is very much appreciated.
I’ve had this camera sitting around since March 2023, when I first wrote about its purchase along with a couple of other cameras here: New old stock 📸
Barnet Ensign Ful-Vue II
I’m not sure what I paid for these cameras but it wouldn’t have been a great deal. I love the Ful-Vue due to its looks and the kind of Art Nouveau feel it has about it. It’s a very basic mass produced camera of its time and It is an old 120 film camera, and the bonus is that this film type is still readily available, in fact I still have a few rolls in my fridge at home today.
The shutter is an all mechanical, spring loaded system which swings a piece of metal over a hole to create the exposure. The approximate timing is 1/30th of a second and that’s slow. It is understandable when taking in to account that ISO 400 wasn’t that common in the 50s and would have produced very noisy results. It was far more common to use ISO 50-100 film and that would’ve required a slower shutter speed at the approximate f11 of the lens of this unit.
I obviously want to get it back into full working order. And want to do as sympathetic a restoration as possible. It’s a 120 roll film camera with a 6cm x 6cm frame inside, it was a cheap and cheerful camera of its day, sold as, “Easy, even for a child to use.”
In the meantime, here’s some history about this little camera:
Barnet Ensign Ross Ful-Vue II
Originally released in its initial form in 1939, this version was introduced in 1950 after further improvements were made. The new flash synchronised shutter, the turn-able lens barrel allowing three different distance settings instead of two, an all-plastic front panel, and an optional flashgun. The improved version was called Ful-Vue II. Pictures were 6×6cm on 120 film. It has been stated that colored models (red, white and blue) were sold in 1952-3, to celebrate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II; However, no other evidence for these cameras has been seen: in particular, the Ful-Vue is not mentioned in a coronation advertising supplement to the BJP Almanac of 1953. Colored Ful-Vues were advertised as ‘Ful-Vue à la Mode’ in late 1952. Examples of the regular Ful-Vue II, repainted and presented as the colored model, have been seen in online auctions.
Camera wiki.org
So I estimate this camera to have been produced sometime between 1950-54 when this particular model had its production run, just prior to yet another version becoming available. Making this particular camera approx 70+ years old. Let’s have a look at the unit that I am now in possession of.
Assessment:
The case is leather and is very dry and brittle, it’s complete, so I may well look at revitalising this one just as I did to an old Kodak camera in this old post: Kodak Brownie reflex. If I do, I will cover its repair in the following section.
The old leather case, very dry and brittle
The camera itself is in quite a good condition cosmetically, it has chips off the paint and a little wear and tear that will require some attention. There appears to be a screw missing on the front plate, this will be replaced.
A little wear and tear, nothing too worrying
The mirror inside the viewfinder seems to have moved and will need reseating, all glass and mirrors appear quite foggy and need a good clean, all workings within the camera inside appear ok. Light seals appear ok but may well need replacing purely due to their age.
Glass dirty and mirror has movedInternals all okNo issues on the winding mechanism
The lens barrel and shutter mechanism will be checked over to check correct operation, however at first glance, all seems to be ok. There is a little red window on the rear panel where you can see the film exposure numbers. A little thumbscrew can be turned to blacken this window out, this will be very handy for when we try to install a colour film to prevent any fogging issues.
Repair:
I want this to be a sympathetic restoration, so I will endeavour to keep the look and feel of the unit as original as possible.
The case:
I’m starting with the case as this is probably going to be the most time consuming and will require numerous periods of drying and moisturising, it’s probably about 70 years old now and to be honest has probably had no care taken of it during that time.
Mild soap sud wash to clean and introduce some moisture – see the dirt on the used cotton pads
Using some mild detergent, but just the soap suds on a cotton pad I have gently wiped all over the case, paying special attention to any old folds in the material. This has had a dual purpose of removing ing a lot of age related dirt (As you can see in the photos above, that show the dirty cotton pads) as well as adding a little bit of moisture but not too much. I want to do this in stages to minimise any more damage. I will now let this dry for 24 hrs and I will then do the same again.
24hrs later I have cleaned the case again, in exactly the same manner. let’s leave it another 24hrs and then apply a little polish to give it back some colour and a little bit more moisture. I’m keeping it as low cost as I can, no doubt a brown shoe polish will suffice for the result I’m looking for.
I’ve treated the leather and polished it twice using a black shoe polish. The third coat I have given is a tan regimental high gloss polish. I’m leaving this for a few hours and then I will buff the case up. I’m not repairing stitching or holes as I want it to retain age and it’s old look. I just want the leather to look healthier, last a while longer and to get some moisture back into what was a very brittle leather case.
Before and after treatment
I have today buffed the case up after all the treatments of the last couple of days. The case feels lovely and soft and much more pliable than when I first started on it. I’m now going to bring this part of the repair to an end as that’s as far as I wish to take it at this time. I want it to still carry its signs of age. Without further a do, let’s move on to the camera.
The camera:
I have decided to totally dismantle the camera and work on it bit by bit. In this case there is not a great deal to dismantle.
Unclip this spring inside the body Off pops the entire mirror and optics headLoosen the spring to release both optics
Firstly I release a retaining clip inside of the main body and this releases the “Viewing head” on top of the camera. This part of the camera contains the mirror that has become detached, and two glass optics that complete the viewer section of the camera. There is a single spring structure that holds both pieces of glass in place, release this and they just fall out. Easy.
All the glass and mirror removed Rear of the mirror, caked in muckRear of mirror has cleaned up nicely
I’ve started by placing the three optical items above in a mild warm detergent soak. I will leave these there for about an hour, in hope that a soak will help in cleaning that muck off the back of the mirror. The two other optics are in great condition and I’m sure the soak and then a final rinse will be all that they require. This treatment worked just fine, and now onto the next part.
Next I’ve removed the shutter mechanism from the camera body.
Front viewRear viewTaken apart The camera has a beautifully simple mechanism that is a work of art to look at
Here is a very small video showing the simplicity of this shutter mechanism
A The mechanism is beautifully simple and is such a lovely piece of work to look at. To think im probably the first person to look in here in the last 70 years is special. All I’m going to do here is very carefully get rid of as much old ingrained dirt as possible and very gently clean the shutter leaf. I will use a minuscule amount of clock oil on the mechanism only, I will use some fine graphite dust on the actual leaf part of the shutter.
Gently does it, in minute quantities
The lens and mechanism have been cleaned now and reassembled, all tested, and working as expected.
The body work is fine apart from some small chips and paint flakiness. I’m going to retouch these missing areas with some enamel paint and a bit of thickener to enable me to obtain the stipple effect of the original paint job. Then I will finish with a nice black polish.
Touching up missing paintwork, mechanism now attached to body
Let’s now get the mirror back in place and the head back on the camera unit.
Mirror and optics all in place
And that’s it. Apart from a little polish we are now done here
Before and after
Result:
I’ve put quite a bit of work into this little camera. Some people will ask why bother as it was only a cheap mass produced camera? Well, I like it, it’s a lovely little camera and it deserves to be displayed. Now, as it’s also working it’s a big bonus. It gives me something to do, and it’s how I relax, as I’ve been shoulders deep in DIY at home recently and doing my shifts at work, so this is a welcome distraction for me.
All done, just needs a polish once the paint is dryIn its 70 year old leather jacket – nice
So that’s another one saved from scrap. This camera will now go into storage where I will vacuum pack it with some silica packets to prevent it from getting damp. I’m surprised just how good this camera “smells” considering its age, there is no mustiness at all compared to some cameras I get from this era.
Many thanks for popping by, you know it is always very much appreciated.
Fujifilm Instax Mini 7+ Instant Film Camera Not Working Spare/Parts. When batteries are inserted into the machine, lots of clicking noises can be heard from the battery compartment. The camera button functions do not work and therefore I am selling this as spares and repairs.
EBay
I enjoyed my last repair on one of these cameras so much that I just had to buy another. You can read about that repair and the issues I encountered here: Instax Mini 8
Nice example. And no battery contamination
Here’s a little about this camera:
With its LED-indicating exposure meter manual exposure controls and automatic flash adjustments the MINI 7+ produces well-lit pocket-sized photographs. Easily shoot in-focus snapshots using the 0.37x real image viewfinder with target spot controls and a 60mm lens with a selfie mirror for in-frame portraits. With a shooting range of 23.6 and beyond the MINI 7+ is ideal for close-up portraits and close environments.
T’internet
I believe this camera was released around 2020 so it’s not that old. This particular unit is also missing the battery cover which is a bit of a pain in the Ass, however cheap replacements are available but not matching the cameras colour. Am I bothered? Of course I’m not, as long as it works I’ll be happy. I could even paint it up, that might be interesting.
This unit has cost me the grand total of £8:69GBP my Mini 8 project cost me £11:45GBP so I’m very happy with this price. The value may rise slightly as I will have to purchase a new battery cover.
Anyway, let’s wait for its arrival.
Assessment:
The camera has arrived and it is in good overall cosmetic condition. A bit of dirt on the back near the film counter, but this should clean off ok. There is a gaping hole where the battery cover should be, a pain yes, but I can always source a new one from somewhere.
Generally clean
The good news is that there is no contamination on the battery contacts, they are absolutely fine. When batteries are inserted the transport runs, but it runs too long, and then a red light shows at the end of it’s movement, and no buttons work, in theory it’s dead at this point.
A little movement of the camera and you can tell that something is rattling around inside, so something has definitely come loose or broken from within.
Let’s get it open and have a look.
Repair:
I’ve sourced a replacement battery cover however it’s in China and I’m probably not going to see it any time soon, maybe not even until next month. I’m not going to order just yet until I know if this unit is repairable. But as soon as I get an inkling that it might be repairable I’ll order it.
The replacement cover. It’s white. My camera is purple. Time to get creative.
Next I’m going to open the camera up to see what the source of the ratting sound is.
These are the items that are rattling inside once I have opened up.
The rattling suspects
One of the items i recognise is the spring that comes from the operating button, the other part is broken off of something, i will have to look through the mechanism of a donor camera i have to see if i can find a part that matches. And I’ve found it. It appears to be a film transport mechanism buried deep in the workings that had broken and become jammed.
Top, the broken piece and below the replacement partTop the replacement part, and below the found broken part
The part is a right pain in the ass to replace, as it has to be in the absolute perfect position within all the cogs, and there is no reference to how the cogs sit. You have to reassemble most of the camera to test, then open it up again to make fine adjustments.
Capacitor sits underneath this battery housingThe replacement part sits under this cog housing on the top right.
So far I have done this about four times, and I still have to open it and do it again. Once again I’ve managed to twice make contact with the flash charging circuit giving myself a right quick electric wallop.
A nice impression of the two flash test probe points I seem to keep touching
I have learned my lesson though and am now employing capacitor discharge probes every time i remove the batteries, as I say in the website intro pages, don’t do as I do. I’m an idiot. These capacitors maintain about 300v to power the flash, believe me it’s a very quick jolt, but it’s a painful one. You certainly know it has happened, be safe, don’t be like me.
Capacitor discharge probes – use them!
I’m holding back on ordering the battery cover at this moment until I can confirm that the cogs and transport system are working in harmony with each other.
On my sixth attempt at lining up the cogs and transport system I believe I have it set correctly. I’ve compared the transport with another similar camera and it duplicates its workings perfectly. It operates well and there are no fault lights showing. The movement is free and unobstructed. I’m happy that the camera is now repaired so I will now go ahead and order the battery cover. The cover has cost a total of £3:12GBP including postage and that puts the total cost of this project up to £11:81GBP compared to my previous project cost for the Instax 8 of £11:45GBP, so I’m pleased with that, as costs are very similar. Oh, and I best get some more film to test it out as well. It isn’t classed as working in my eyes until I see some photographic proof.
Result:
This is my second repair of a camera in the Instax range and the most challenging to date. It’s been great to work on and as usual I have learned a lot about how these cameras work inside. I’m glad I had an old camera to call on for spares as that has proved invaluable in this case. In the past I think I just would have given up on a full repair and junked the camera as many people seem to do, however these cameras are very repairable, desired by the younger folk, and worth designating some time to as they can be saved. There are a lot of non working examples available out there at a fraction of the cost you’d pay for a new working unit. (Money to be made in my own personal point of view)
The unit has polished up very well and looks lovely.
And it works….
And it works just fine
Pictures as expected
I’m so pleased with this camera, it’s taken a lot of time and head scratching but we got there in the end, and it is as good as new. I’m still awaiting the battery cover, and we have guests coming around today so I’m going to use this for some random photos. Just got to make sure I don’t let the batteries fall out. Once again we’ve saved another unit from landfill and that is the big win here.
Three weeks later the battery cover has arrived from China. Perfect fit.
Camera complete
Many thanks to my lovely missus for allowing me to take photos. Rare because she hates having photos taken.
Thanks for passing by, as always it is very much appreciated.
Sangamo Weston Master V Exposure Light Meter includes Invercone & Cases The exposure meter is not working The invercone will also fit the Weston IV
EBay
Weston V light meter and Invercone
I have brought a little item from my past history here, going way back to the days when you had to work out the light levels in photography for yourself. The exact date of this unit is unknown, however it was manufactured between 1963 and 1972. That’s two years prior to my birth and up to the age of when i was 7 years old. And I was using them when I went into photographic work approximately ten years later. These units were made to last and did their job well, hence their longevity. I’ve paid the total cost of £8:40GBP and that includes postage. I’m surprised to be honest as not only is it the light meter, but also an Invercone (I’ll explain later) and two cases. An absolute bargain in my eyes as the Invercone itself, in a case can sell for more than I’ve paid for the entire package today. Oh, and it doesn’t work and to be totally honest I don’t think I will be able to get it working ever again, as the suspected component fault is one of those little things that are only dealt with by specialist craftsmen. Add to that the problem of locating a replacement piece, as they are nigh on impossible to obtain, or in layman’s terms, as rare as hens teeth.
But I have read about people reviving these parts and I’m going to give that a try. If I’m unsuccessful it will be a nice piece to get mounted into one of those box frames as a historic photographic memento.
What is this part you’re referring to?
A light meters main purpose is to react to available light and direct the photographer toward making a decision regarding the settings for his camera. Things like ASA, shutter speed and f stop settings.
Therefore it needs something to sense the light. It’s not a solar panel, these were not invented back then, but it was a similar system and it was called a selenium light sensitive cell. When exposed to light, the cell generates a small electric current that deflects the needle of an ammeter coil within a strong magnetic field. The whole system is basically a Selenium cell, a resistor and the ammeter coil. The lightmeter is entirely dependent on the light sensitivity of the selenium cell for accuracy. Over many years the selenium cell ages and degrades to the point that it just stops working. It dies. Its main cause for demise is usually moisture getting into the workings and causing degradation at the contact points on the Selenium cell.
There are a number of posts/sites I have visited that claim you can revitalise these items, however I am sceptical at this. There seems to be only one person in the uk that seems to totally replace these items and that is a guy called Ian Partridge, who I believe charges around £90GBP for a repair and his site can be found Here. A fully working serviced unit can sell for up to £189:00GBP.
I’m not doing that. No way. I’m going to see if I can even get it slightly working, I’m never going to use it seriously again but I’d at least like to see the needle moving without causing any damage to its original design.
Is that the only potential issue?
No of course not. There is one other potential reason why it is not working and that is related to the ammeter coil, the axis on which the needle moves, sometimes it can become stuck, if this is the issue then happy days, the fix would be a lot easier. However this is me, and things are never that easy for me 😂
There is also a fine tuning screw on the rear that someone may have been a little bit too enthusiastic with, in the past.
And of course. The pointer lock on the side of the unit could have been simply left on. Now wouldn’t that be nice and easy?
So what’s this Invercone thing you’re going on about at the beginning?
It’s that weird shaped piece of plastic with a bit of metal on it, in the pictures above.. it assists greatly in incidental lighting conditions where there is a back lit scenario.
The inverted cone shape is designed so that as the meter is angled to the light source, the readings remain accurate which they would not do if it were a dome. And because backlight effects the exposure, a small part of the invercone sticks-out beyond the top of the meter case to pick any such light up.
Sangamo Weston was a company that made light meters, among much other electrical equipment. It is particularly known for the Weston Master series of selenium meters.
The Weston Master V was produced in the UK from 1963 to 1972. It was Model S461 in the UK and Model 748 in the US
Weston was founded by chemist Edward Weston—no relation to the famous photographer—who held many patents for electrical inventions, from permanent magnets through cellulose manufacturing, dynamos, arc and filament lights and the magnetic-drag speedometer to electrical measurement instruments (and even US 895218 – a fruit box!). Weston’s son, Edward Faraday Weston, applied for a U.S. patent on the first Weston exposure meter, granted as No.2016469 in October 1935. This was a cylindrical case with an electrical meter at one end, and an iris at the other; an adjustable scale around the meter opened and closed the iris, and showed the exposure.
Sangamo was originally “Sangamo Electric Co.”, in Springfield, Illinois. It set up a British subsidiary in 1921. Sangamo acquired the Weston Electrical Instrument Co. in 1936.
Since Weston was one of the first makers of light meters, before film speeds were standardised, Weston had its own film speed scales.
At some point, Weston products were distributed by Ilford in the UK. The company was bought out by Schlumberger in 1976, but still exists, making electrical timers.
The EuroMaster light meter, very close to a Weston design, was later made by a company called Megatron.
For those who have made it this far, well done and thank you. Let’s have a look at what has arrived and assess the overall condition. It’s taken some time to arrive what with there being two recent bank holidays closely placed in proximity to each other in the calendar. Translated that means the UK comes to a halt during this period, whilst everyone gorges on poorly cooked barbecued food in bad weather whilst drinking too much alcohol.
And some of us are just working. Most annoying.
Anyway enough of the whining, here’s the assessment:
The meter has arrived and is in an excellent cosmetic condition, it came in a small leather case with a lengthy string neck strap. It’s all original and is still marked up with the original owners details on a small label. The Invercone is just what it is, a piece of shaped nylon/plastic and not much to rave on about. It is as it is, in good condition and also in a small leather case.
Original caseExcellent cosmetic condition
The calculator panel on the front is undamaged and in full working order, the light baffle on the rear is also operating as it should and the info panel under the viewing glass changes as the baffle is operated. The pointer lock is operating as is the fine tuning screw on the rear.
Baffle closedBaffle open
There is a very slight movement when exposed to intense sunlight with the baffle open or closed however it is only very slight. It struggles to move past the zero indicator on the scale, hence as described it is safe to say that it is not operating as it should. We will have to look inside to see if there are any obvious issues, however I strongly suspect it is related to the Selenium cell. I would like to see if we can get this operating, I’m not overly worried about its accuracy as I’d just like to see it move through its entire range. It would be good to see if it is at all possible to revive a “dead” light meter. We can only learn from dismantling and investigating such items.
Repair:
I’ve left the unit in sunlight for a few days, as this has been known in some rare cases to just kick start it back into life. That doesn’t seem to have worked in this case so let’s have a look inside.
Remove securing thumb screwRemove two nuts Case lid lifts offCarefully remove fascia platesRemove sliding needle lift mechanism and expose selenium cellCell, armature ring and ammeter coil removedCell connecting ring cleanedCell contact ring, cleaned and renewed
The whole unit came apart quite easily to expose the selenium cell deep in its workings. Using a multimeter on the cell, indicated life in the item as values changed as the cell was moved from the dark into the light and vice versa so I am confident there is some life still present in this cell, but is it sufficient to power the meter? I have then used the lowest Ohms setting available and put the negative lead on the magnetic case (Ground) of the ammeter coil and the positive lead on the wire connected to it and there is no movement at all. This indicates to me that the ammeter coil is at fault and unresponsive to any voltage, I believe this is the problem and at this point the repair is not possible. I have cleaned the cell connecting ring to the point that it is now shining and free of any age related contamination. The contact ring on the cell itself I have revitalised with a metallic silver pen. I have checked continuity and that is also good and acceptable. One thing I did not see in this model was the use of a resistor that is used in most selenium cell light meters between the cell and the ammeter coil, maybe there was never one used within this range of meters, I’ll have to check that out. I have checked this out via numerous sources and it appears the Weston light meters never had a resistor placed in line at any point, so that has cleared that question up. This unit is dead due to a faulty ammeter coil.
Result:
The unit is cosmetically very good and I believe the actual selenium cell is functioning but at an exceptionally low level. The tests on the meter ammeter coil have come back negative indicating that there is no life in this part of the meter. I suspect the fine wires on the coil are possibly damaged. The only way I can get a working unit would probably be to obtain another faulty unit to transplant parts, I may well do that in a later post.
I hate not getting the fix done, however this unit is in excess of 50 years old and to be honest the odds were stacked against me from the start. I did state that I may actually mount this item in a frame as a photographic art piece, that may still happen but I’d love to prove the original cell is still functional if I can. Maybe I just might buy a donor unit to test my theory on.
I’ve learned a lot from this post on the repair and dismantling of these units so that is a big positive. Knowledge is always king as they say.
It will not go to landfill. It will be reused in some form, you may even yet see a follow up post regarding it.
Thanks for passing by, it is always very much appreciated.
Yes I know I have been a bit absent from here recently, but believe me there is a lot still going on behind the scenes. Just remember that old analogy that people tell you of, when a Swan is gliding serenely around a lake, not making a ripple on the surface when underneath him his little feet are going like the clappers. That’s me at the moment that is.
Old disused railway that we still have to monitor
Continuing on from this post: Busy, Busy, sell! The estate agents have now pulled us well and truly into their orbit. Numerous requests for forms, ID and information, and not to forget their commission payments have been received and returned as requested. The pictures will be taken next Tuesday and we expect the old home to be on the market by next weekend. And this is where my absence from this site has been utilised in the last week or so.
The little jobs, yes those ones you have been putting off for a while but can’t be left any longer as before long you may well have strangers in your home that will pick up on the most minuscule piece of detail.
The swines!
Quite enjoyed it to be honest, window surrounds painted and tarted up, cupboards and closets tidied and painted, steps and floors varnished, I must admit the old home is looking lovely, and to top it all the wife has invited friends and family around this weekend for a little party in the garden, and guess what? This is when we are forecast the first rains for a month or so, typically just as the barbecue was coming out of hibernation. So now I have to put up the big gazebo just in case 🤦♂️
Moira SouthSome nice walks in Sth Derbyshire Gazebo now in place. Before the rain 🤦♂️
In between this all I have also been doing my daily work duties, nothing too out of the ordinary, just every day railway stuff, and I do have a few little projects about to come on line both photographic and hobby related that I have just been awaiting parts for to complete. I’ve squeezed in some nice little walks, but beyond that I’ve not really had much time for anything else.
Maybe a little sleep?
Nah, they’ll be plenty of time for sleep when I’m in my box, however a little rest would be nice, I’m hoping the wife’s soirée this weekend will allow some nice R&R.
Have a lovely weekend people, take care and stay safe.
Embark on a journey down memory lane with the vintage Master Challenge Computer Electronic Quiz Game by Peter Pan. This handheld electronic game offers a test of knowledge and skill, making it a splendid addition to any game’s collection. Ideal for enthusiasts of retro gaming, it provides hours of entertainment as you tackle a variety of questions and challenges.
As a sought-after piece amongst collectors, this game is a testament to the era of classic toys and games. Whether you’re looking to complete your set of electronic games or seeking a unique gift for a vintage game aficionado, the Master Challenge game promises to be a talking point at any gathering.
This item is sold as spares and repairs as not working. Please send offers or ask any questions.
EBay
The seller here has obviously used the wonderful AI assistant to write this post as it is so false. The unit is incomplete, it is probably not sought after, as it was not that well received back in the day, and in its current state is probably only fit to be disposed of, also an important part of it is missing. However I’m not for disposing of items such as this and will endeavour to get it back into a working state, it’s just going to take a little time and patience.
I’m missing a fair bit, and it doesn’t work
What my unit looks like
What the unit should look like
Some history:
Peter Pan Playthings Ltd was a British toy company founded in 1963. It bought Salter Science and other assets from the receivers of Thomas Salter Ltd. In 1972 the company reported a £80,000 profit. The following year it was acquired by Berwick Timpo.
The company was sold on to Bluebird Toys in 1987, which continued to use the Peter Pan Playthings brand for several years.
Produced around 1980, the Master Challenge system was licensed from Coleco (Coleco’s Quiz Wiz system), this was released in the U.K. by Peter Pan Playthings. There were 30 different cartridges for Coleco’s version. The unit comes with a question book and the system is used to answer those questions. It is currently unknown how many cartridges were made for the UK version.
T’internet
So for some unknown reason I have purchased this 45yr old piece of retro nonsense because I just can’t keep my bidding finger still. That’ll teach me a lesson. I’ve paid the grand total including postage of £5:69GBP, and I think it is missing the most important part, the book of questions that go with the cartridge, usually attached to the binder that encompasses the unit. It’s also broken, so it needs fixing anyway, and I believe extra cartridges can be purchased, so if I can get it working, and I can obtain further cartridges then no problem. If I can’t, then there is a problem. The battery cover is also missing. I’m a fool, honestly I am.
Whereas the Coleco Wiz system had 30 different cartridges available I believe the Uk version only had the 6 as listed below:
1 – General knowledge
2 – World of sport
3 – Music
4 – The bible
5 – BBC quizzes
6 – BBCs Top of the form
And back in the 1980 these additional cartridges and quiz books could be purchased for £6:99 GBP and 50 pence postage! Quite pricey for the time.
On this particular cartridge or what remains of it are the pre programmed answers to 1001 questions that I’m not in possession of. How novel. I have managed to find a photo on line that has some questions showing on it, these would have been in the original book that would normally be attached to the binder of this unit, so this should be sufficient to at least test the game in its current form.
Some questions to test the unit.
The game works in such a way that you choose a question from the book, you then use the unit to give your answers. If the answer is wrong you hear a corresponding low pitched sound and get a red light. If you are right you hear a high pitch sound and see a green light.
Score sheets in the back of the booklet
So basic in its operation, many thought it was totally pointless back in the day. However this was computerised technology in its earliest and most basic form and was at the dawn of a new era of personal entertainment. It deserves to be preserved.
To cover my apparent foolishness I have found another cartridge that I’m going to purchase to make this unit complete.
These plug in units come in a binder format with the brains of the game situated in an enclosed plastic block on the base of the binder, i suspect it is something along the lines of an integrated circuit. I can’t open this one as it is sealed, however when the old one arrives i will open it up as that one doesn’t have a quiz book with it. It will be good to see just what is inside. This little unit contains all the answers to the 1001 questions that are provided in the attached quiz book that slots into the top of the binder. The number inside the block indicates the quiz book reference.
Challenge quiz book and questions
The “Brains” and the quiz book reference number
The faulty computer unit I am awaiting, then slots into the binder and block by the pins you see in the photo above. The computer then simply has to decide whether your answer choices are right or wrong. And that’s the crux of the game in a nutshell.
Whilst awaiting this broken units arrival, I’ve purchased the additional set of plug in questions seen in the pictures above. This is an additional 1001 questions set, based on all the old BBC quizzes. It’s complete with answer book and the complete surrounding binder. It has arrived ahead of the faulty unit and is in an exceptionally good condition considering its age. None of the mustiness you’d expect from an item that is 45 years old. It must have been stored with great consideration. It’s cost me more than the broken unit, this cost a total of £8:15GBP, so that makes a running total of £13:84. I do have another game cartridge on order that I picked up for another £7:83GBP but I’m quite happy with this. It will be a nice addition to the games box that comes out when the family or guests come around, and everyone loves an old retro style game. It will certainly be a talking point, that’s for sure.
My additional plug in cartridge
Assessment:
I’ve not even received the unit yet and I’m getting a bit ahead of myself wondering just what could be wrong with it. Its operation is so basic, think it could only be one of five things possibly be at fault.
Pins that read the cartridge are dirty/damaged
Contamination in the battery area
Loose wires
Faulty switch
Cold solder joints
I guess we will just have to await its arrival when we can make an accurate assessment.
The unit has arrived and it’s a tatty looking piece. Dirty, and only the remains of the binder that used to accompany it.
What has arrived
I’ve put in some batteries and there is very dead. There is the occasional buzz when the switch is slowly moved but nothing else. It could be a faulty switch, it could be the contacts. I’m going to have to open it up and get down to board level.
Inside – all posts welded
The problem here is that inside there are no screws attached to the inside support posts. The whole unit has been welded, all plastic posts have had heat applied to moulding the post tops. I’m going to have to break these off and try to re-weld them when we’ve got it all working again….if we can.
In the meantime I’m going to open up the the plug in module that’s attached to what is left of the old binder, i might as well sacrifice that piece as it’s of no use to me and it’s in the name of research.
How the unopened board looksBoard removed front viewBoard removed rear view
Now I thought they’d be some kind of integrated circuit in here but there is not. It appears to be just a board with two sets of comb like traces that would appear to just short together in the unit. Makes you wonder if the questions in the book follow some simple kind of algorithm that the unit just adheres to. Maybe every so many questions, they all have the same answer, there must be some simple and basic way that the unit knows the preprogrammed answers. Maybe I’ll find out more when I look inside the actual “Computer” unit.
Repair:
Inside the unit there is not a great deal of components apart from a single IC a capacitor and a number of diodes and resistors.
I’ve used a very fine emery board I borrowed off of my wife (don’t tell her) to try to get in and clean these contacts, as I believe this is what is causing the issue.
All buttons under a sheet of tape
All buttons are under a sheet of tape. I have removed this tape, cleaned all the contacts with IPA and repositioned them and re taped them using Kapton tape. They are a lot cleaner and are clicking nicely.
Button removalAll buttons removedAll cleaned and sealed down with Kapton tape
The contacts where the game cartridge is inserted are quite contaminated so these also have to be cleaned.
Contacts are contaminated
I’ve used an emery board to clean the contacts up on the unit, and when the cartridge is inserted we have a result. The first ten questions I have input have had correct answers only and no duplicates, so it really does really look as if the contacts were contaminated causing some kind of issue with the two parts of the game communicating.
Result:
It’s had a good clean both inside and out and a few of the old items inside replaced and given a new lease of life. The unit is now fully working and can be seen doing so in the little video below.
A little test example
I’ve since purchased a new binder for question set 1, so I now have that along with question set number 5. I’ll keep an eye on the auction sites to see if any of the other sets become available, and who knows I may try to get a full set. Now that would be quite rare I’d imagine.
A nice clean and working unit
I love digging around in these 80s units and just wonder at how basic the technology was back then, it’s just amazingly simple and so well put together. Anyway, this one is now working and good to go for a few more years yet. Saved from landfill we have another successful repair under the belt.
Thanks as usual for popping by. It’s most appreciated.
I purchased this item from EBay in April 2024 and have only just got around to finishing what had been a draft post put together all that time ago. I had written about it briefly in this earlier post Fuji Finepix S1500
A little bit about this digital “Bridge” camera
Successor to the S1000FD (at the time the world’s smallest 12x zoom camera), the FinePix S1500 is the latest in a long line of very compact SLR-styled big zoom cameras designed to appeal to those wanting a lot of lens on a tight budget. The big change is the inclusion of optical (CCD shift) image stabilization, making the long zoom a lot more usable in less than perfect light, and for the money you’re getting a lot of features – including full photographic controls and a 7.5fps burst mode (at reduced resolution) – in a lightweight package. Price on the market back in 2009 was £219:00GBP
DP Review
Assessment:
This camera was launched in 2009. The unit has arrived and is cosmetically tidy, however when you open the battery door the issue is obvious, two of the contacts are badly corroded and despite some initial cleaning there is no continuity and no power present. The unit is very much dead and not working.
A tatty and unloved camera
The issue with these units is that the power chambers are hard to access and to get to the point where the battery connectors are, you have to remove the powerboard assembly and this involves de soldering a number of points. There does not however appear to be any major signs of corrosion on the visible side of the board, when it’s removed it may reveal a darker issue hidden below.
Power board assembly
It’s going to be no easy task but I may look at running six volts from the bench power supply to a point on the power board assembly to see if I can breathe life into this camera. I don’t want to waste time in the battery terminal area if there are issues elsewhere on the unit.
The corrosion on this camera is horrendous
Repair:
Looking at the boards again I am not going to pay them any further attention. The contamination has not reached under them and is isolated to the battery chamber so that’s where I will concentrate on.
I’ve started with the contacts on the battery door, as you can see above, they are particularly bad and have no continuity through them.
Corroded door Contaminated contactsBadly corroded All clean
When reassembled the door section looks good, it will just need a good clean at the end.
Before and after
Rather than dismantle the whole camera, and because I know there is no contamination on the main board I was able to get down into the battery chambers with a steel braid pen that I have, that allows me to gradually scrape off the contamination. Followed off with a good chamber clean of Isopropyl alcohol, I was able to get the remaining acid contamination out of the camera.
Attacking the contamination in the battery chamber
Result:
Once I did all of this I paid some more attention to the exterior using some car cockpit polish, this removed those horrid white sweat marks you see on the faux leather coverings of these older cameras, and it came up quite well and had a lovely vanilla smell to it .
Looking mighty good….and clean
Polished
I have turned it on and hey presto we have life. Everything is working as it should. It’s a 10 Megapixel camera and I have a 1Gb Sd card installed and it is taking pictures as expected.
And it works
Nothing more really to say about it, it cost me about £6:00GBP spares and repairs as it was totally dead, thankfully we’ve managed to get it working instead of breaking it up for spares that would more than likely never be used anyway.
Finished item
This unit is of no real use to me, so I will get it up to our local Hospice shop for them to sell on.
Fujifilm Instax Mini 8 Instant Camera Teal Blue Spares & Repairs
Please see photos for condition this will be the item you will be receiving.
The camera will not turn on.
Thank you for looking!
EBay
It’s about time I started to get back to repairing some cameras, I have a mountain of them to get through but they can wait a little longer. These little Fuji units are really popular with the younger generation, and in my view anything that gets youngsters interested in, and involved with photography is a good move. We have some youngsters in our clan, and I have this earmarked for one of them if I can get it working. We had some conversations during our family gathering over Easter, and the subject of photography, and this particular member of our family came out. Seeing this auction today, I acted and purchased as this is a perfect little starter unit for her. My total outlay for this unit was £11:45GBP and considering the current costs are around £30-£40GBP for a working example, this is not too bad an initial outlay.
The Instax Mini 8
Here’s some history on these cameras:
Instax is a brand of instant still cameras and instant films marketed by Fujifilm.
The first camera and accompanying film, the Instax Mini 10 and Instax Mini film, were released on November 10, 1998. The “Wide” film and first accompanying camera were released the following year. The Instax Square film and accompanying camera were released in 2017.
The formats of Instax film give an image size of 46 mm × 62 mm (1.8 in × 2.4 in) for the Mini, 99 mm× 62 mm (3.9 in × 2.4 in) for the Wide and 62 mm× 62 mm (2.4 in × 2.4 in) for the Square. The Instax colour film is available in Mini, Wide, and Square formats and the black and white Instax Monochrome is available in Mini and Wide formats.
Wikipedia
For anyone that was around in the 70s, these cameras are an extension of and an advancement of the then Polaroid instant photography system. Nearly every household back then had access to Polaroid cameras. If you look back at any photo album or collection from that time, you will invariably find some Polaroid photos stored within that collection.
Here is a typically over enthusiastic review produced by a very pleasant chap when it came out about 8 years ago. Sums up in a few minutes just what it can do, and just how easy it is to use.
A very enthusiastic review
This unit looks to be in quite a nice condition but as always we will never truly know until it has arrived and can be assessed, never forget, this is EBay that we are purchasing from 😂
Battery compartment…suspicious!
Something looks suspicious in the battery compartment. There seems to be contacts missing, they might be fine I just don’t know. They just don’t look right to me. There may well be some minor signs of corrosion as well. Who knows, I’ll just have to wait until the unit arrives. So let’s just be patient until then.
Come on Mr.Postman!
Assessment:
I’ve downloaded the instructions and they consist of just half of one sheet of A4. To be honest they are about as basic as are needed I guess, but in technical quality they are about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike! And those contacts I mentioned above, look just as they were from the factory. What a strange design.
On arrival the camera appears to be in a really good cosmetic condition, there is even an old film cartridge still inside that I suspect is well fogged by now. However this will be of use if I can get it working, as it will prove if the film transport works.
The battery connectors are exactly as they were when the unit was assembled, so my earlier suspicions have come to nothing. However there are small indications of battery leakage on the outside that are always concerning, because they can always hide a greater issue occurring inside the camera. When batteries are put in place the unit is totally dead, just as advertised.
Cosmetically tidyBatteries – no powerContacts show evidence of light contaminationlight contamination in evidence
So no more to it, I have to open the unit up and see what I can find inside. Before doing that though I have connected a bench power supply to the contacts and there was still no draw on the power at all. It is definitely dead.
Repair:
On opening. Oh my word. What the heck is that? I have never seen contamination around a battery terminal like that before, the battery contacts have been totally consumed.
Under that crystallised mess is what is left of a battery terminal, and that thing that looks like a biscuit on the left is the main motor. Totally crusted up
I could hear some rattling around inside the case and thought something had worked itself loose. No. It was what looked like broken glass, but it wasn’t, it was crystals of contamination, this camera has more stalagmites than Wookey Hole! The motor was badly contaminated and every part of the working mechanism had signs of this contamination, it was everywhere.
Contamination crystalsMotor contamination
First things first, the issue with the power supply is purely at the point of that big mass of battery contamination on the battery terminal, there is no continuity here and this needs removing and attending to.
What was under that crust of contamination All cleaned and ground down ready for re soldering
Using a combination of alcohol to break down the contamination, and a grinding pen, the offending crust was eventually removed. It had eaten through the wire at the battery terminal and was being held in place by the mass of crust that has built up around it. I was able to cut back the wire and re solder the terminal to make it good. There was contamination everywhere and this all had to be removed, if left in place it would cause more problems in the future. It had to be eliminated completely.
Contamination everywhere, what a mess
I removed the motor, and used a contact cleaner to free up its motion, I constantly turned it back and forth for about 15 minutes and I could gradually feel it freeing up. A wire had broken off from the led light on the viewfinder, this was soldered back into place and we were now ready to test. I put the batteries in and flipped the switch. I could hear the flash capacitor charging and all lights came on, I switched the unit off and began preparing to re assemble the unit, not before accidentally touching the flash circuit and taking a quick 300v shock in the hand. It’s a big capacitor as all flash units usually are. I’m an idiot, it was a school boy error. And I had a capacitor discharge unit sitting right beside me. Fool!
Ok. I’ve stopped cursing myself and the reassembly continues, and I manage to complete this with no further issues.
It seems to be working.
I’ve loaded in that old cartridge it came with and can confirm that it was all fogged film. However it has proved that the film transport system and flash are working as you can see in the video above. I’m now going to have to source some fresh film for a true test. Before that I’m going to open up the unit again and give it a good blast with compressed air and a final check to make sure I’ve got all of that contamination. It’s just the OCD coming out in me.
That said, the flash has now ceased working even though I can hear the capacitor charging up. I suspect the flash bulb has failed, so I need to get back inside anyway. Oh well, here we go again!
Like the idiot I am, I realise I have not been using sufficiently powerful batteries and the flash capacitor and flash unit are both in fine working order. I’m just going to make a small adjustment on the shutter opening switch though, and also the power contacts connected to the lens internal focus ring.
I’ve removed an unnecessary small spring from the aperture ring on the left, and I found some more of the crystal type of contamination on the circuit board near to the flash capacitor.
I’ve removed an unnecessary spring that was on the aperture ring, it was causing the aperture ring to sit in an opposing position to the light indicator on the side. The two of them have to match to ensure the correct exposure. The spring was pulling down on the ring, and moving it to a lower position on the indicator. Thus causing an exposure issue. I’ve removed it, it is not needed and is now working better. I have also cleaned the circuit board as I found another small patch of crystallised contamination. It’s now cleaner than when it departed the factory.
The lens aperture ring, and indicator
And here we have a picture where I’ve captured the flash unit working.
Flash captured working
Now all back fully assembled I’m confident that the camera unit is in as good a condition as it could be. Fully serviced, clean and operational just as it should be. The next real test will be when I get some film inside of it to carry out some realtime tests. I’m hoping I’ll have the film within the next day or two.
Result:
I dont know why but I really love this little camera. I’ve enjoyed the challenge, the issues thrown up by it, and have gained immense satisfaction in getting it back into a working order. I don’t know if it’s the size or just the pure simplicity of having a picture to hand that is fully developed in about 15mins. The excitement of watching a picture form in front of your very eyes and even the fun factor is incredible. It’s what is needed in photography today, a step back to the 70s world of Polaroid, it’s true that back then they really knew they were on to something big, but I bet they didn’t think that it would now be having such a resurgence with the younger generation 50 years later. Instant memories preserved right in front of your eyes. The Japanese photographic industry, are so up there with modern photographic trends and demands. If only some of the now defunct big players such as Kodak who I used to work for, had gleaned such future insight, things may have been very different.
This unit as was stated earlier, is promised to a younger member of the family and that is where it will be going. I think I’m probably going to buy another damaged one to fix for myself, because I just love these little packages of fun and instant memories.
My film arrives within the next 24hrs and I’m really looking forward to getting some pictures taken.
Now all polished and cleaned and looking splendid.
Sparkling, clean and pristine (Inside and Out)
The film is here and I’ve put in new batteries and tested the unit prior to putting the film in. Anyway, film installed let’s take the first picture that will remove the cover off the film cartridge within.
Cartridge inFilm cover out
Now to find some subjects without wasting too much film. Picture one was of another Instax camera i am working on, bit close to be honest but there is at least an image, the camera is working. Second one is in the corner of the kitchen this comes out well. Third one is of the feral cat “Tabs” who owns our garden. She wasn’t too happy that I’d disturbed her sleep but that said it was a good photo.
First three trial photos
Overall I’m exceptionally pleased with the results. Closer examinations shows some repeating white spots up the right side of the photos, no big deal but this probably points to some contamination on the film roller. I can’t clean this now without fogging the remaining film, so I’m happy to leave this until this cartridge has been used. I’m happy that this is the only minor issue after all the other problems this camera had.
Working perfectly and looking great
Been a great little project that I have thoroughly enjoyed working on. These little units are great fun and the little lady that is going to get this camera is going to have a great time with it.
Another one of mass manufacturings victims, revived, and repaired and now facing a much longer and rosier future. Another one successfully kept from landfill. A winner in every sense of the word.
Many thanks for passing by, as always it is very much appreciated.
Foxes Den 
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