vintage – Page 2 – Foxes Den

Canon EOS 10

An old EOS 10 was in need of attention. And I was able to lend a helping hand

Here I have a Canon EOS 10, a quite superb little camera. The date code within the film barrel is HE1213, indicating that this camera was manufactured in December 1990. At the time of manufacture this camera sat firmly at the top of Canons camera tree only surpassed by the EOS1 professional camera that had been released the year earlier in 1989.

This camera was amongst a selection of cameras and equipment passed on to me by a good friend and professional photographer as can be seen here: Cameras…i need more!

Here is a little history regarding the EOS 10

The Canon EOS 10 is an autofocus 35mm SLR introduced in 1990. The model name was EOS 10S in the Americas, and EOS 10QD in Japan. There was a commemorative metallic-silver version introduced in 1991 to mark Canon’s 60 millionth 35mm camera sold.

The improvements over the original EOS cameras are a newly improved autofocus sensor. Focus modes include One-Shot AF for non moving subjects and AI Servo AF for moving subjects. It is able to detect and switch automatically between the autofocus modes. Shutter ranges from 30 sec. to 1/4000 sec., with B. X-sync at 1/125 sec. Similar to the EOS 750, is has a built-in flash with a guide number 12 (at ISO 100). It uses one 2CR5 lithium battery and weighs approx 625g for the body without battery.

Camera wiki.org

Assessment:

One of the nuances introduced on this camera was the barcode option. Introduced at a time where barcodes were starting to creep into our life, in a knock at Minolta and their use of specific expansion cards for specific scene settings, Canon thought it would be good to utilise barcodes that you could scan, to automatically set your camera with these options without expansion cards. Needless to say it didn’t take off and was soon dropped from later camera production. It was a sign that the development teams were looking for advancement opportunities.

These cameras are available at fairly reasonable prices now partly due to the dreaded sticky rubber grip issue that tends to send buyers running for the hills, god knows why, it’s an easily remedied issue that just takes a little time and patience. I did a previous post about cleaning these cameras here: Sticky, Rubber camera grips it’s all down to the polymers in the Vulcanised rubber breaking down and reacting with hand sweat and other stuff. Have a read, and never throw away a camera just because it’s sticky.

This camera has some stickiness but it is not an advanced case. It will still be cleaned in the same manner, to prevent it developing any further.

The camera is just a bit dusty and in need of a good clean. The mirror is dusty and needs cleaning, a blow out of the interior should suffice as the shutter blades are opening and closing with no issue.

The battery is a lithium 2CR5 cell. The battery chamber is clean with no signs of battery contamination, this is a very good sign. When placed into the camera the screen comes on, is clear with no damage. A lens put on the front confirms that auto focus can be achieved and the camera fires and winds as expected.

To be quite honest, there doesn’t seem to be a lot wrong with the camera. It really seems to be just a clean and maintenance issue. I’m going to give the camera a thorough look over, dust and clean, a thorough clean of the external rubber and finish it all of with a good exterior body treatment. I will then run a roll of used film through to check the DX reader is working, as well as the transport system. Fingers crossed nothing major raises its head during the repair process.

Repair:

Straight in and at the cleaning, and to be honest the rubber wasn’t too bad. I only used two applications and not a lot of dirt came off on either. After it has dried, it does feel a great deal better.

The mirror has cleaned up nicely, so has the prism above it, however whilst in there I noticed that the mirror damper felt was failing, so this I have now removed and will have to replace prior to using as I don’t want to cause any further damage.

The missing damper felt area, highlighted in red

I’ve had to order some new material that will hopefully be here shortly, as my supply, as is always the problem lately, is in storage with all my other gear pending this house move that will probably never occur. it’s a real pain in the butt not being able to access your most required kit. Hey ho.

The light seal has arrived, and so I start by getting the damper felt put in place. First I cut it to size, remove the sticky back paper and just wipe the sticky bit with some water, this allows me a little more time to reposition it before the adhesive does its work.

Below is a very small video with me putting the camera into manual mode on a single exposure setting to test the actual worth of the damper foam.

All working fine

I’m happy with what has been done so far.

I’ve even given the neck strap a good buff up, the rubber on it was almost white rather than black, a bit of a clean and a polish and it’s now been restored to it’s original glory.

With the new damper in place it’s now time to run a film through it, I have an old test film I use for this purpose, I’m going to set the camera to its highest shutter setting and just run the whole roll through in quick succession to check the transport and rewind.

And here is that test, it went super fine and the full roll rewound at the end.

Transport works just fine

I’ve tested all settings, shutter speeds and functions including the flash and all is as it should be. I’m happy to say that this camera appears to be in full working order.

Now for the final clean and presentation.

Result:

Well, a little bit of car cockpit cleaner has done wonders. It looks beautiful and has a nice aromatic smell as well. I know I’m biased when it comes to cameras but I think this is an absolute beauty.

Covered from all angles looking resplendently clean and tidy

I’m really pleased with this camera, I’m heading out later today to watch a relative play football and I’m going to take this along to grab some snaps with an expired film from 20 years ago. It will be a good final test of the capabilities of this camera, and should finalise its renovation. It’s been a great camera to work on and is yet another worthy addition to my collection. I will post the photos here when they are finalised. Canon Eos 10 test shots

Thank you all for passing by, it’s always most appreciated.

Pancake/Cookie lens

It’s a colloquial term for a flat thin lens assembly that started to emerge from the 60s through to the 80’s, commonly seen in compact SLR cameras of the time. This then developed into a body cap lens, an extreme type of pancake lens that is designed to both protect the camera internals as a body cap normally would, yet still allow the user to take photos. These lenses are manual focus only and generally have no more than a couple of optical lens elements, no image correcting elements, a very-slow fixed aperture, an extremely thin focusing ring (if any at all), and a retractable lens element cover. Due to this compromise in design, body-cap lenses generally suffer from numerous image quality issues such as heavy vignetting and poor image sharpness.

Recently there has been a resurgence in this type of lens culminating in the one that seems extremely popular at this time, a cookie lens.

It’s not hard to see why it is named so, it looks like a big Oreo cookie, it even looks as if it has the cream between the two biscuit pieces. These current ones are sold as being recycled from old disposable cameras. Original pancake lenses can cost many hundreds of pounds, however these ones are classed as disposable, and are priced at around £30 to £40GBP, being sold by a company called Retropia. But hold it! Don’t waste your money on that one, as they can be purchased for at least half that price from Ali Express of Temu, just make sure you shop around. By looking at the reviews £30 can still be a bit of a hefty outlay for what is basically a cheapo lens out of a disposable camera set in a cookie shaped piece of plastic.

One guys in depth review of the “Cookie” lens

These lenses have risen in popularity, as the new mirror less cameras have become more accessible. This lens allows these cameras to be used as a straight forward point and shoot camera, no focussing or metering. achieving that retro disposable camera look, but in much more modern equipment. It’s a fun item and for an outlay of around £13GBP, which is what I paid for mine, it’s not too big an outlay to do some experimenting with, and if it turns out to be a load of old bilge, then it’s no real loss. Reviews are mixed, but in general it seems people are having fun, and that’s what photography should be.

I’m waiting for mine to arrive, and when it does I shall post some photos below to see how I’ve got on with it. Oh, and I now have a suitable camera to use with this lens and that can be found here Sony A7II Mirrorless camera.

It’s such a simple thing. It turns a complex camera into a quite basic point and shoot disposable, lomography type of camera. Perfect for street photography and just everyday randomness, yep kind of like you’d now find on your mobile phone. However this is more fun and you actually have a camera into your hand, Perfect.

The lens is 32mm, and the CCD in the camera is full 35mm so there is a kind of small vignette around the edges of each shot, but that just adds to the basic rawness of the lens. it’s a bit of fun.

Above are a small selection of some of the scenes around home, taken quite randomly and all I have done in the post process is added some vintage presets. The light has been so poor lately that to be honest this already added to the vintage effect. If we see any sun I suspect the results would be very similar to the hazy 70s effect that the disposables always managed to achieve. Don’t expect too much from these lenses, they are just fun to experiment with, and that’s just what photography should be. Fun.

Thanks for passing by. Always appreciated.

Olympus Trip 35

What the listing stated:

This lot is being sold for PARTS / REPAIRS, it is currently NOT in a working condition

Olympus Trip 35 w/ D. Zuiko 40mm F/2.8 Lens
& Original Lens Cap

EBay

I brought this item along with a Canon A1 as a job lot. The full detail of what was in the auction and how it progressed can be found here: Not the lottery, but for me – just as good

The page regarding the repair of the A1 can be found here: (Still in draft – coming soon)

Meanwhile here is a little history about the Olympus trip:

The Olympus Trip 35 is a 35mmcompact camera, manufactured by Olympus. It was introduced in 1967 and discontinued, after a lengthy production run, in 1984. The Trip name is a reference to its intended market—people who wanted a compact, functional camera for holidays. During the 1970s, it was the subject of an advertising campaign that featured popular British photographer David Bailey. Over ten million units were sold.

The Trip 35 was a point and shoot model with a 40 mm ƒ/2.8 lens, solar-powered selenium light meter, and just two shutter speeds. In ‘A’ mode, the camera operates as a Program automatic, choosing either 1/40 s or 1/200 s. The camera could also sync with flash, and has a range of aperture settings, from ƒ/2.8 to ƒ/22. In flash sync mode, the shutter is set at 1/40 s. Apart from a simple four-position zone focus system, and an ISO setting from 25 to 400,^[2]the camera has no other photographic controls. The camera has a Prontor-Compur sync connector and a hot shoe. Its lens was a coated Zuiko 40 mm ƒ/2.8, with four elements in three groups.

The camera has an ISO range of 25–400, as films faster than 400 were uncommon at the time and delivered reduced image quality. 25 speed allowed the use of Kodachrome, while 400 speed allowed use of Kodak Tri-X and similar fast materials under low light. Earlier models, from the first few years of production, have a maximum ISO speed of 200.

The use of a selenium photocell to select the shutter speeds and aperture let novices use the camera as a “point & shoot”. No batteries are needed to power the camera.

The lack of more than two shutter speeds was not a problem. At 1/200 s and ƒ/22 with 400-speed film, the camera could deliver correct exposure in full sunlight, while at 1/40 s and ƒ/2.8, correct exposure could be obtained under bright fluorescent light, without a flash.

Wikipedia

And who could ever forget the series of star studded television adverts, featuring the photographer David Bailey, put together to promote this camera.

David Bailey

I never really got to use one, I admired one from a distance instead. My brother in law, Jim had one around about the mid to late 70s and he took some fantastic snaps with it. I wasn’t into photography at that time as I was still more interested in LEGO and Tonka trucks. However he did let me try it a couple of times, it really was that easy to use.

I’m not really sure what the problem is with this one, as the listing was not really clear on its issues. I just really wish sellers would just take a few seconds to describe the problems, it really could be an instant decision for the buyer – is it repairable or not? I’ll just have to wait until it’s arrived, and then i can do an assessment of its condition.

Assessment:

Well, it’s arrived and cosmetically it looks fine. However, zoom in a tad and the issues become apparent. It’s been dropped at some time, the lens has a little bit of wobble and you can see the outer ring of the lens has an obvious dent in it.

It does wind so that’s a bonus. The exposure button works and it clicks as it should, and the old selenium exposure meter appears to be responding, the red flag appears in low light and thus the exposure button will not depress. This is good.

When you half press the exposure button you would expect to see the relevant shutter leaf aperture close down, to the corresponding f- stop reading, this occasionally happens. If you move the lens barrel slightly it does have an effect, but it looks as if there is also some contamination on one of the shutter leafs, all of this is probably as a result of that tumble that has occurred sometime in the past.

Obvious lens wobble

I will definitely have to remove the whole lens housing from the camera to see if I can do anything regarding that wobble. This is going to be quite some task, and I’m not confident I will succeed, but who knows.

Let’s attempt to get inside.

Repair:

To get into the lens there are three tiny screws on the inner turret bezel that have to be removed that sit around the edge of it. This then pulls out and the lens optics can then be unscrewed.

Here are then two more screws that allow you to remove the selenium light sensor. Below this are three brass screws that hold the body to the lens. One of these screws were loose, hence the wobbly lens, this must have occurred when it was dropped.

I’ve pretty much had a cleanup here, applied a tiny drop of camera grease to the ring mechanisms, and tightened all these screws, and now the turret is nice and tight. I’ve just given the shutter blades a wipe with a soft brush and that is all it really needs. I’ve reassessed the camera, and tested its operation and it’s all good, working just as expected.

Result:

The dent in the ring remains as it’s causing no issues and is a subtle reminder of its past. The lens issue and its movement has been repaired and this in turn has cured the issue with the sticky aperture blades.

I haven’t touched the inner workings in the top of the camera such as the light metering, as it’s working fine and what’s the point in fixing what’s not damaged?

I’ve still to run a film through it, and this will be done shortly as I have quite a backlog of film cameras to be tested. As soon as I have photos available I will link through this posting.

Really pleased with how this has gone, a nice easy fix but I can’t believe just how small those screws are around the lens bezel. I need my eyes testing that’s for sure.

Thanks for passing by, as always it’s very much appreciated.

Mamiya M Autofocus – 35mm point and shoot camera – Part two

Here we are again. I recently wrote of my failed attempt to get this 80s camera operating here: Mamiya M Autofocus – 35mm point and shoot camera.

Not one to give up on a project I have looked at a suitable donor camera and believe I have found one as detailed below. Only difference is that I had to buy two cameras as they came as a bundle. Not a problem as I can always do a separate post on the other one, the two have cost me a total of £15:00GBP bartered down from the original price of £30:00GBP. A bargain! So let’s just call it £7:50GBP per camera.

What the listing stated:

mamiya shutter button is stuck. red light on the right comes on. some external corrosion pictured

ricoh no power at all

EBay

Assessment:

The Mamiya is in quite a poor state, and is the Time Memory version that differs very slightly from the version I originally worked on, it’s essentially the same camera as the Mamiya M, but with an added quartz dating mechanism for imprinting time and date information on the film. This model was the last 35mm camera Mamiya produced before focusing solely on medium format. However the back seems to be a bit rusty whereas mine is in excellent condition, so I will be using a mix of the two units to make the one good one.

Repair:

The Mamiya looks good cosmetically until you open the rear and see the rust around the door, not a problem as I won’t be using this part of the camera. The red light does not come on at all and the shutter button is stuck, that’s for sure. The whole camera is dead.

Let’s get into it.

Once opened all looks ok so I decide to have a search around with the multimeter checking the basic operation. Am I getting 3 volts at the top of the battery barrel? No I’m not. It appears that one of the traces on the positive side of the power input board has lost continuity. For some reason the traces has been damaged, this could be either from corrosion or rubbing on something. The area affected is in the photo with the red ring around it.

I’ve fixed this immediately using some solder to bridge the gap, I have checked continuity and all seems ok. I put some batteries in and the motor squeals like a banshee and then stops. You can hear the screaming motor below in the short video from its first screaming session through to its proper 80s sounding drone.

The screaming motor through to its repair

I don’t think this motor has run for years and it does not run consistently. I have sprayed it with some contact cleaner and let it soak. I have left it overnight and checked the operation in the morning and it seems to have improved.

I’ve used the original fascia, rear door, focussing beam and flash capacitor from the first failed unit, and apart from a few bits of soldering, plenty of contact cleaner and some silicone grease, I’ve revitalised a failing motor and it is now working as it should. I forgot to mention I used some graphite on the shutter leafs to “lubricate” them. All optics cleaned and camera has been tested without film and is working just fine.

View finder indications are good with light meter operational, motor rewind works, flash and exposure is fine, and the motor advances as well.

Result:

I’m really pleased with this little camera and am pleased I didn’t give up on it. It’s taken two broken cameras to make one good one, and I have a good few spare parts left over to be used at a later date.

The unit looks so smart, the only real issue is the battery door that is notoriously flimsy and lots of references to its poor design can be found on line. A temporary way around this is just to put some tape across it to keep it closed.

Beyond that issue, the camera is a really good looking unit that has cleaned up really well.

I can’t wait to run some film through it to see how it performs. I have a few cameras like this to test so I’m looking for some decent priced film to use, as i do need quite a bit.

As soon as I have some photographs availability I will link to this post accordingly.

Many thanks for following the repair, it’s always very much appreciated.

Not the lottery, but for me – just as good

I’ve been after a couple of cameras for quite a while now that hold a great deal of sentimental meaning to me. This will become apparent when i publish the individual posts for them, but for now i just want to share the result of an auction i participated in on the 31st July 2025.

Today I’ve probably made the best purchase off of an auction site that I have ever made previous. I’ve been following a number of Canon A1s lately and they have all been going in the £120+GBP bracket, some even higher than that. Today I have lost out on two that sold for £93 for a damaged body and one for £121 that was just a body but of a much better quality. This particular auction I was watching was for an untested duo of cameras, a Canon A1 as well as an Olympus Trip 35mm. The Olympus alone normally commands the high £80GBP range and both of these were in this particular auction. I was just watching as this was going to sky rocket in my opinion, two good cameras from a respected seller who I have used before. Two minutes from the auction end, bidding was sat at £39GBP and I thought that any second now the price was going to go crazy, especially in the last 30 seconds. I put in a max bid of £55GBP for the lot, as I pretty much knew it would sail past that amount and go for a price in the £150-£200 price range. I hit the bid button with 20 seconds left on the auction….

You have won – congratulations!

I thought you’re having a laugh, no way. And then it came up with the winning bid being £39:00GBP no one else was bidding, crazy.

The A1 camera consists of the body, a winder, an FD 50 1:1.8 lens, a camera manual as well as a lens manual.

Postage was the grand total of £4:99 so my total for these two cameras was £43:99GBP. That is nuts, and to say I’m pleased about this is the understatement of the century. I have two of the cameras I wish for the most, and I have just landed the bargain of the day, I was in the right place at the right time. Wow. It’s unusual to catch other auction bidders sleeping, it will probably never happen again for me, it’s a very rare occurrence. Two cameras of this magnitude for £22:00GBP each! That’s unheard of.

I don’t know for what reason they are not working, as they both appear to be quite tidy examples. I have used this seller before and the posting above could also be worded such as to imply that the units may well not have been tested. But, that’s what this site is about, repairing old cameras and getting them working again. There’s no fun in talking about a good functional camera, that’s boring. We want the meat and potatoes as they say, we want to see things being fixed, or broken further….you never know with me.

Thanks for sharing my excitement at this purchase. It will all make sense once i’ve assessed the cameras and carried out any repairs.

Thank you for passing by. It’s always appreciated.

Mamiya M Autofocus – 35mm point and shoot camera

What the listing stated:

Mamiya M point and shoot camera. It’s in fantastic original condition and is cosmetically excellent with original case and lens cap included. The lens appears to be bright and clear from the front.
HOWEVER…when batteries are inserted the shutter does not fire and I suspect it is jammed somewhere. The lights come on and it goes “click” but the aperture does not open, nor does the film winding do anything.
For spares or repairs only, I’m sure somebody with the know how could get it up and running again.
Priced super low as I want it shifted and can’t bring myself to bin it!
No returns please

EBay

A well made 80s point and shoot 35mm camera

Here’s a little bit about it:

The Mamiya M is a 35mm autofocus compact from 1982. It has a boxy plastic shape, with a fixed Mamiya Sekor 38mm f/2.8 lens. The lens is four elements in three groups. Exposure is fully automatic, based on the film speed, where the ISO is selected via a dial around the lens. Film speed available is 25 – 800 ISO.

The metering cell is located just under the lens, but within the lens ring. This allows for the metering to take into account any 46mm filter screwed onto the lens. That is assuming it is not a graduated filter. Fastest shutter speed is 1/500^thsecond with the slowest at 1/8^th. The camera is always on, except when fitted with a specially designed lens cap, which triggers the off state. There is a strategically placed switch it pushes against on the right side of the lens. Most of these caps are lost, including mine.

Photothinking.com

I don’t know what attracted me to this camera, but the fact the seller just wanted rid of it at a cheap price was a starting point. It was advertised as £4:36 GBP and £2:45 delivery, a total of £6:81GBP. I bartered a bit and got it all in for £5:44GBP so I got it a little bit cheaper, a bargain if you like.

Mamiya has a great reputation for building high quality lenses. They were only in the 35mm autofocus point and shoot sector for a short while before immersing themselves totally into the medium format camera market. This 35mm camera was only in production for about a year or so, even though quite a few were produced, we are looking at the low hundreds of thousands, not the many millions, so the camera itself was not a major mass produced and marketed unit. It is a plastic preformed body unit. Known in polite society back in the day as “A plastic fantastic”.

If a Mamiya camera had a blue ring around the lens, specifically on its other models, it denoted a higher quality lens type, it was never confirmed this was the case with these small autofocus 35mm cameras, though many believe it is still the case. Photo quality with these little units was generally of a very high quality.

Lens caps with these cameras are very rare, this one has one and it is the original, and i suspect (from what I see in the picture) that there may be a small crack on the side of this one, but that is not an issue. This lens cap is integral to this cameras operation, as when it is placed over the lens, it turns off the camera, without it the camera remains live at all times, and would soon lose its power. It is an early power conserving device if you like. The camera looks to be in overall good condition, probably down to being stored in its original case.

You can view a lot more than I could ever tell you, just by watching this review by Mr.50mm that was posted earlier this year.

Excellent recent review

Since reading up a little on these cameras it appears that I may well have bagged a bargain, if it ever works. And I also believe the seller may well again be unaware of the operation of this camera and it may in fact be working just fine? Who knows? I have my suspicions but we will just have to wait until it gets here for assessment.

Below are some sale prices relative to this camera model that are currently selling on EBay, some extremely high prices compared to what I have paid today:

It’s plastic and so 80’s. And people obviously loved it. I’d like to be able to get this camera working again, and would love to run a roll of film through it to give it a test run. But first I have to assess it and see just what is wrong with it. I have a roll of old film available to test its “faulty” rewind system, and I have all my tools ready to crack it open and get inside, if I have to. So let’s get at it….

Assessment:

It’s arrived and I must say it is in an excellent cosmetic condition, probably down to being kept in its original Mamiya soft case. The lens cap I thought had a crack in, is actually broken, probably beyond reasonable repair, but at the moment that is not important. Let’s put that to one side for now.

The actual camera is partially alive. When batteries are installed there is a red light that appears on the right rear side of the camera, this is the film transport light and should extinguish when transport is complete. The flash switch sticks a little, and when the flash is clicked into position the distance sensor light on the lens activates however the flash does not charge. The winding system is inoperative and does not auto wind at all. The shutter does not operate, despite the shutter leaves being able to move when gently coaxed.

There seems to be partial electricity throughout, this could very well be the issue. There just doesn’t seem to be a uniform continuity throughout the camera. This will need to be looked at. Something very weird is going on inside.

Repair:

I’m really annoyed, closer inspection shows there are 6 screws missing and someone has been inside this camera prior to me. Again I think I’ve been stung by the EBay curse of “Spares and repairs- no returns” will I ever learn?

I’ve removed the remaining screws, and had to peel off the rubber grip to access and expose the motor and associated component board in this area. There will need to be a lot of cleaning here before gluing it all back in place.

I’ve managed to get the flash charging light illuminated, and a current of 214v in the flash confirms that the Flash capacitor is holding a charge and more importantly, receiving a charge from the battery circuit. But I cannot get it to fire. There seems to be an issue with the shutter mechanism and the related electrical circuit in this area. The motor is not working, it’s either dead or not receiving power. I need to look in this area a little more thoroughly.

I’ve now removed the front fascia and now have a good view of the overall workings inside the camera.

Ive taken out the lens and the leaf shutter, these seem ok and are working freely when operated. To me it looks as if the mechanism that triggers the leaf shutter is either seized or the variable capacitance system located at the top of the camera, that is basically just a needle on a circuit board connected to the focus light, could be at fault, it does not freely move on each camera actuation as it should, and this is not a readily available part.

Misfiring- faulty

It seems the deeper I delve into this camera that I am finding more issues, and I’ve just found two parts that are incorrectly installed that are on a cog system connected to the motor. I’m fighting a losing battle as it appears the person who has been here before has probably added to the issues of this camera in their attempt to fix the original issue.

On top of the missing screws I’ve now found a missing capstan cog related to the leaf mechanism that would help explain a certain lack of movement in areas. The motor is dead, I’ve taken it out and used the bench power supply and it is non responsive. Even after spraying with some contact cleaning fluid and sitting there spinning the axis to get the solution absorbed, there is still no response. It’s totally dead and will require replacement.

Result:

Well. Once again I have been mislead by incorrect descriptions on the auction sites. It’s a shame really as this is a lovely camera and if it had not been tampered with inside, I’d probably be posting a different review today, one that would be more positive. With screws, cams and cogs missing I was pretty much set up to fail here.

I’ve reassembled the camera and it is now back in its pouch. The positives are that I have learned a lot about how this camera operates, and just dismantling and reassembling the camera allows you to learn a lot about it, and the technology used during that period in time. All the screws that I removed have gone back into place with none leftover, yet another positive.

So it’s a failure I’m afraid, but it will be kept and either used as spares or I will obtain a suitable donor to get this one up and running, it will not be disposed of in any way. It will be reused. I’ve only paid a small amount for this, it’s worth it for the spares alone.

I have already set up a notification on the auction sites for when another suitable camera becomes available. I will update this post or post a new one that incorporates either the repair of this unit or its use as a spare parts donor, when that time comes.

Thanks for passing by. Its appreciated.

Nikon 28-100mm AF Zoom Nikkor Lens G AF-D

What the listing stated:

Nikon Nikkor 28-100mm Zoom Auto Focus Lens F3.5-5.6 G

It will autofocus with: Df-D1-D1x-D1H-D2-D2x-D2xs-D3-D3x-D3S-D50-D70-D70s-D80-D90-D7000-D100-D200-D300-D300s-D600-D610-D700-D750-D780-D800-D810-D850-D7000-D7100-D7200-D7500 & Fuji S1, S2, S3,S5

This lens will not autofocus with : D40-D40x-D60-D3000-D3100-D3200-D3300-D3500-D3600-D5000-D5100-D5200-D5300-D5500-D5600 as these cameras do not have integrated autofocus motors in their bodies, but it will still work with manual focus and auto exposure as it has a “chip” mount.

It will also work Nikon 35mm AF film cameras: F80, F90/90x, F75, F70, F65, F60, F55, F50, F80, F90/90x, F101, F100, F401.

Comes with front / rear lens caps

EBay

Anyone that has followed my recent repair of the camera: Fujifilm Finepix S2 Pro will be aware that I purchased a lens as a test lens for working on some stock that required a Nikon mount. I went cheap and purchased a lens that was so badly affected with lens fungus that it will require a deep clean and some TLC. Anyway, it allowed me to test electrical contacts and all the menus, and that was about it, it served a purpose there, but taking a picture was like looking into a deep fog, it was hopeless. Anyway that lens is now set aside and will become one of those projects to dig into on a long winter evening…or two, or three.

As I have a number of Nikon based cameras needing assessment on the horizon, some with sensor issues, i have made the decision to pay a little more for some quality, from a company called AP photographic who specialise in quality used equipment, a company that is based close to where i used to live down in the south. This Lens has cost me £58:95GBP including postage, a fair but good price for some peace of mind. This post will not be a repair post as there is nothing wrong with this lens, it will be more of an assessment of the lens when used with the Fuji S2 pro i featured in a previous post.

Nikon Nikkor 28-100mm Zoom Auto Focus Lens F3.5-5.6

I’ve put this post up to show the difference in the pictures taken on the S2 with both the old lens as well as this lens. I think the results will show quite a noticeable contrast and confirm just how restrictive a lens is when it is infected with a fungus problem.

Assessment:

The lens arrived within a couple of days and is in perfect condition. It has a lens cap and bayonet cap so is perfectly protected against dust dirt and damage from foreign objects. And when the lens cover is removed there is another little surprise, a post it note saying “Filter is a free gift” that just happens to be attached to a daylight filter. Nice little touch 👌

Lens is a perfect fit, no aperture ring on it as it is fully automatic, full autofocus. I’m not sure how the flash will work with this lens though when I use the Fuji S2 Pro, as that body works best with a fully closed lens aperture, but I’m sure I’ll be able to work it all out and get it functioning as it should. And I did, i played with the Aperture settings in “A” mode and it works just fine. It’s faultless.

That said on the S2 it not only looks good, it takes good pictures. Compared to the lens I last used this one is crystal clear, not a bit of fungus no aberrations and not a speck of dirt. This is a good lens and will serve me well for the purpose of testing other equipment I have awaiting attention. I think I’ve purchased a good example here.

Result:

I can confirm that the Fuji S2 Pro does not have a thing wrong with it and is working perfectly. All modes, all conditions are performed just as they should be. This lens is gorgeous as it is so clear and has been so well looked after. I believe this whole unit will be the one I wander about with when i go out on my walks. I can’t wait to take some serious photos to post.

A quick comparison fungus lens v clear lens as seen on the camera LCD screen

I took some pictures just randomly around the home setting with the old lens to show how foggy things were with the lens fungus. I have tried to take some more photos of the same locations with the new lens as well to just show how they compare and these can be seen in the pictures grouped below.

Before and after pictures, what a difference the fungus has had on the results.

All these pictures are on an old CF card so it is a bit of a palaver to get them on to new technology, but it is doable, it just takes a little time, and this gadget allows me to load numerous card types even the CF cards direct to my iPhone via a lightning connector. It also has a USB-C connector for other phones. It works really well as you can see in all the pictures in this post.

Multiple media cards direct to my iPhone

And below are a few random photos taken on the S2, it has a good black and white mode but is quite heavy on contrast. Post editing would probably be recommended, but to be honest I really love its moody appearance.

4 random photos in and around the house. And Tabs the feral cat popped by

This camera and this lens have proved fantastic. I know you can get far superior picture sizes and quality on a basic mobile phone, but where the heck is the fun in that? This camera cost me £8:00GBP. Just £8:00. And it is a superb camera that will be going on many trips with me as I just love it and how it looks. I now know it intimately after reading up on it and testing it, and cannot wait to put that knowledge to use.

Cameras are better than mobile phones. Old ones like this are fun, and an absolute privilege to use. It’s not all about the Megapixels, just remember these old cameras were the ones taking high quality professional pictures back in their day. Just because time moves on, and just like an elderly old lady or gentleman, they should not be discarded because they no longer serve a purpose. Respect the older technology, learn from it and you will ultimately become a wiser person yourself. Oldies rule! Never forget it. 👊

Thank you so much for passing by. It’s always very much appreciated.

Fujifilm Finepix S8000fd

What the listing stated:

ALL ITEMS IN THIS LISTING ARE FAULTY
FAULTS MAY VARY BETWEENS ITEMS

SOLD AS IS

NO RETURNS

EBay

I’ve purchased three cameras as a job lot in an auction. All of them have issues but the issues have not been clarified. This is very much a “Suck it and see” auction where I get what I’m given. I’ve paid £24:22GBP for all three and that includes free postage. I’ve purchased from this seller before who is a bonafide Camera business based in South Wales. He has no time for faulty items though, quick in and out is his way of working, no time to fix stuff. I’ve got three good cameras in this bundle and this works out at just about £8:00GBP per camera. And where can you get cameras like this for those prices nowadays.

I really don’t know what the specific issues are with this camera, only that it appears to have the mode selector dial missing from its top. I guess we will just have to wait it’s arrival for a full assessment. In the meantime here is a little bit about it.

With the release of the FinePix S8000fd, Fujifilm brings to market a smart-looking digicam with an 8-megapixel imager, one of the longest zoom lenses in the market plus a compact, and relatively light, camera body. The cheapest of three similarly featured long zoom cameras in the current market (see table below for a feature comparison), the S8000fd has the distinction of being able to use both xD-Picture Card and SD cards (including SHDC), which are fitted in a single dual-format slot. Release date July 2007.

Photo review newsletter

Assessment:

Well, to be honest, for potentially the worst camera in the box of the three that were purchased, it works just fine. Apart from that missing mode selector dial on the top of the camera. You have to use a pair of tweezers to get each mode to appear, but they are all there and the zoom and flash all work and it takes pictures fine, just as it should.

Apart from the issue with the dial, all that is really needed is a little clean up, and even that isn’t that bad.

It does not justify being used as spares and is far too good to just be disposed of. I’m going to try and repair this.

A little bonus was that there was a 1Gb SD card in the memory slot that works. There were also 4 rechargeable batteries in the camera that after a while on my charger, have fully recharged, and this makes the deal an even better one and quite a bargain to be honest with you.

Repair:

I’ve tested all systems, menus and functions on this camera and there really is nothing else wrong with it. It’s far too good to be used as a spares camera and deserves to be repaired.

I have two options here, either buy the mode selector dial on its own from our friends in China, or buy another donor camera in a far worse state and available for about the same price as getting the dial from China. I just have to wait for that donor camera to first become available. I’ll give it a couple of weeks and if nothing comes up then China it is.

In preparation for whatever route I decide to take, I’ve decided to do some prep on the old camera and get the old selector dial mechanism taken out ready for the new dial to be put in place.

I’ve dismantled the camera unit to be able to access what is left of the mode dial switch.

This wasn’t too awkward to dismantle, half a dozen screws and a small plastic prise tool was all that was required to reach this point. There was some protectorate covering the metal frame of the switch housing that was contained by four tiny screws. Once this was loosened the housing came away and I was able to remove what was left of the old mode dial that had originally been in place. There wasn’t a lot left.

The camera now sits in this position of being dismantled whilst I source a new dial to replace. As stated I have two options of buying a new dial either from China, or by getting a damaged camera as a spares source, and I’m currently looking at the latter as this could be purchased for about the same price as the dial from China, and would allow me a few more spares.

I’ve purchased another unit as a donor. The unit in question has a damaged LCD screen. I’m going to use that camera as a donor for the mode dial I require.

The donor camera has arrived. And to be honest it looks ok. It has been dropped at some time as the lens has a scratch on it, and the Rear LCD screen is damaged. That’s about it.

A good looking donor camera, the only issue being the damaged LCD screen

I’ve taken some pictures with this unit and the camera is working fine, as you can still view pictures you have taken through the viewfinder. It works ok, but I need this mode switch to fix another camera, so i’ll probably just use what remains as spare parts due to that scratch on the lens.

Let’s get the donor camera disassembled to harvest that mode switch.

There are only about six screws to get the back of the camera taken from the body, you just have to be careful not to damage the ribbon cable that is connected to the mode dial assembly that we are going to use today.

The two cameras, and the mode dial assembly we need to fix the original camera

I did all the disassembly of the original camera to save time, and it took about 5 minutes to get the donor camera stripped down. Once inside there is some insulating material covering the switch assembly, this has to be removed but cannot be reused as it has lost its adhesion. When reassembled I have used electrical Kapton tape to replace the original insulation. This has worked just fine.

Assembly involves checking that the button settings relate to the markings on the camera body, this is important at this stage as the last thing you want to do is reassemble the camera to find out that you have the dial in the wrong setup. Do it now and save time and reduce the possibility of damaging the connectors and body clips.

Result:

We have a beautifully restored and working and fully functional bridge camera that takes good snapshot photos. It’s not high end, it’s very much a learner camera but good at documenting what’s going on around you. Its mode dial that was missing is now working fine. A little polish and it has come up looking lovely cosmetically. it’s a good little unit.

The camera has come up lovely and is now complete and fully operational

Here are a selection of snapshots from around the home just to prove it’s working as it should. Nothing special, it just does what it was always built to do. Take snap shots.

It works. I’m happy. And another camera has been saved from landfill.

Thank you for passing by, as always it’s most appreciated.

Panasonic Walkman cassette player RQ-P250

At a family gathering this weekend, an elderly family member approached me and asked if I could take a look at his Panasonic personal tape player, and maybe get it back up and working.

Who am I, to turn down such an invitation, so I took it on and promised him I’d have a look into it. There is, “No rush“ I was told. Just as well, as it’s busy in every aspect of my life at the moment.

Here’s the spec:

Type: Auto Reverse Cassette Player

Tape Type: type I, CrO2, Metal

Output: 20mW

Battery: 2 x AA

Power Supply: RP-AC33 (3V DC)

Dimensions: 114.2 x 84.4 x 33.1mm

Weight: 156g

Finish: black

Year: 1993

Hifiengine

Assessment:

It’s well used, and has always been and if I can get it working, will continue to be so. At the grand old age of 79 my brother in law is not about to change his ways and is quite comfortable listening to his old Cassette collection whilst out and about, on trains quite a bit of the time, as he travels up and down the country. He’s a lovely old fashioned set in his ways guy and we wouldn’t have him any other way. It would be blooming lovely to get this back to him working again.

It’s scarred, been well used but looked after, apparently it’s gone from playing quite well, to slowing down and dying completely. I think I know what the issue is but I’m not going to curse myself by saying I know what is wrong, when it actually turns out to be something totally different.

And I love his choice of music. Let’s get this repair underway so we can listen to Mr. Rea in a lovely crisp sounding manner befitting of an 80s rock star.

Repair:

Batteries in place, earphones connected, push play. No movement from the capstans, and even when put in forward and reverse there is no movement from either capstan. I can hear all the electrical noises such as the tape head picking, and I suspect at the grand old age of 32 years old that the drive belts have probably given in. Let’s open it up and have a look.

And just as I thought. Two drive belts in here, they are both loose, one though is so loose that it has wrapped itself around the two capstans, no wonder it wouldn’t start up.

Two drive belts visible, both so stretched that they have ceased working

I have plenty of these belts spare, I just had to sort out the two closest matching in size. Too slack and you introduce warble, too tight and it will be off speed, you need to get it just right. Adjustments can be made to the motor speed but this will only come back to bite you once the belts wear in.

I’ve put two new belts in place, and at some frequencies there is a little wobble, but with Dolby switched in place this can be removed digitally, this will settle over the coming weeks after more use.

I have used some silicon grease on the cogs, I have put contact spray in the motor and the volume controls, and used IPA to clean all the tape contacts and capstan wheels and posts, it’s basically been given a little service to see it forward for a while longer.

Body now reassembled, new batteries put in place, it’s time to test it.

Result:

A quick polish, to tidy up, won’t get rid of the deep scuffs, just makes it a little more presentable. Cassette inserted, headphones plugged in and as expected it’s working just fine, we can hear Mr.Rea in all his gravel voiced glory. So can you, in this video snippet below, that hopefully won’t get a copyright strike 🤞

🎶 On the beach 🎵

So there we have it. Another item brought back to life with about 30 minutes work. It’s going to make someone’s day, and I’m as pleased as punch that I could play a part in contributing to that.

Working well, looking ok after a quick service and some TLC

There you go. Hope you enjoyed this quick fix.

Many thanks for passing by. Always most appreciated.

Fujifilm Finepix S2 Pro

What the listing stated:

ALL ITEMS IN THIS LISTING ARE FAULTY
FAULTS MAY VARY BETWEENS ITEMS

SOLD AS IS

NO RETURNS

EBay

I’ve just read a blog where a guy had one of these cameras from new, and in 2002 he had paid £1550.00GBP for this camera. Wow, and here i am 23 years later paying the grand total of £8:00GBP for one. Even if I don’t get it working, I’m happy with that.

Now this particular camera had two issues in its lifetime that caused concern, and one of them meant it was pretty much game over, and that one was the CCD issue that used to plague this range of cameras. Fuji released a whole bunch of these cameras with a faulty CCD that had to be fixed under a recall. They built sufficient replacement CCDs to cover the recall and that was about it. There were no remaining CCDs left and at that point what was left had become as rare as hens teeth. If you suddenly developed that faulty a later date, then tough…you were stuffed.

Serial numbers affecting CCD problems are listed below:

Model Serial Number Range

FinePix S2 Pro 31A127**~31A143**

32A000**~32A039**

33A000**~33A007**

34A000**~34A004**

Fujifilm

The second issue was with a batch of these models that had a “bad” resistor in the power circuit that prevented lock up if there was a power spike, if this failed then the camera just stopped and you were stuck. There was another recall on the second issue but there is probably a lot of cameras out there that again weren’t part of this recall. And I guess owners were pretty fed up of recalls at this point and were off loading their equipment as quick as they could.

The serial numbers regarding the lock up problem are listed below:

Between serial numbers 24L00441 and 24L00680
Between serial numbers 24L01057 and 24L01256
Between serial numbers 24L01553 and 24L01863
Between serial numbers 24L10257 and 24L10608

Fujifilm

Above you can see the serial number for my camera. Thankfully my number falls outside the range of any of the cameras inflicted with either problem, so it’s fair to say (Fingers crossed 🤞) that I shouldn’t suffer with any of the known issues with this unit. In layman’s terms I think i may well have dodged a bullet here.

I did speak to the seller regarding the fault on this camera and he stated it was just a general error code on the top screen. There is a general error that arises occasionally regarding certain lenses where they have to be locked on their minimum aperture for the camera to work properly, however I’ve not attached a lens yet so this cannot be confirmed.

Here’s some history:

The Fujifilm FinePix S2 Pro is an interchangeable lens digital single-lens reflex camera introduced in January 2002. It is based on a Nikon F80 (N80 in the U.S.) film camera body that was modified by Fujifilm to include its own proprietary image sensor and electronics. Because of the Nikon body, it has a Nikon AF lens mount and so can use most lenses made for Nikon 35 mm cameras. It is autofocusing, with an electronically controlled focal plane shutter with speeds from 30 sec. to 1/4000 sec., built-in exposure metering and pop-up flash. Its ISO film speed equivalents range from 100 – 1600. The S2 Pro also has sound recording capability. The camera is no longer in production, having been superseded by the Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro in February 2004.

Aside from the Nikon lens mount, the camera’s principal distinction is its 6.17 megapixel photo sensor. Known as the Super CCD, it is unique in having its photodiodes oriented diagonally rather than horizontally and vertically as in all other DSLR cameras. This allows the use of a sophisticated interpolation system that produces an output image equivalent to 12.1 megapixels. The apparent resolution of images in this interpolated mode lies somewhere between 6.17 megapixels and the 12.1 megapixel interpolated output.

A huge number of these cameras were built using a Sony sourced defective CCD that was subject to a recall by Fuji. The recall ended when the stock of these replacement CCD’s was depleted. There is word that no other stockpiles exist of this Super HAD CCD, making these cameras that are found with the purple or black tinted image problems extinct, only usable for parts. The Fuji F700 used a similar defective HAD CCD, but in 3.1/6.2Mp size. That camera has met a similar fate.

Wikipedia

So let’s hope that we can get some pictures out of this unit. We just have to wait and see what arrives.

Assessment:

Well the camera has now arrived, and I must say it is in an absolutely beautiful condition. Cosmetically there isn’t a scrape or scratch, all screens are scuff free and it looks as if this unit has been well cared for. It just needs a wipe over to clean. The package is just the camera body with no extras such as a body aperture cover or neck strap, but who’s worried about that, they can be procured at a later date.

These units are quite power hungry requiring a total of six batteries. 4 AA cells go in the base and two Lithium CR123A batteries go in the grip. These batteries work in unison, one set handling the basic camera functions whilst the other deals with the capture and processing of images. It’s a strange affair, loosely based around the same setup that was originally on their film based camera counterparts.

I’ve had to order the lithium batteries, however I can still get displays and Information using just the AA batteries in the base, basically it is semi functional in this situation.

The lens mount is a standard Nikon F mount, I’m going to have to search through my equipment to see if I have such a lens, I suspect I don’t, so I may well have to purchase a small lens purely for test purposes. I have some other Nikon repairs in the queue, so a lens to have for test purposes wouldn’t really go amiss.

The unit takes either a CF card type II or a Smart-media card (Max size of 2Gb on both) that is located behind a hinged section on the rear of the camera, these work fine and have no bent pins.

With batteries in place I get the full range of menus, and nothing comes across as suspect at all at this stage in the assessment.

The top menu by the exposure button is the only “F” indication showing, I have no lens attached so this might be the reasoning for that, but if I do put the menu into manual mode I get the full range of shutter speeds and can even operate the shutter, the shutter seems to be working at all selected speeds with no issues as far as I can see.

Some of the shutter speeds available in manual mode

All other menus are available and I’m even able to format the CF card via the cameras menu. The picture you see on the screen was taken on another camera. It wiped fine so no issues here.

Various menus and the screen after a format was completed through the cameras menu controls

The camera seems to be working with no apparent communication issues as yet. When you try to use the flash it even informs you that you need to insert the correct batteries to test. As I’m awaiting the CR123A batteries I won’t be able to test the flash functionality until they arrive.

No CR123A batteries installed? – You can’t use the flash

As I have stated the testing can only go so far until I have the missing items in my possession, for me that is the two missing batteries and a suitable lens. I’m currently in the process of procuring both. Physically there is nothing wrong with this camera after spending a good couple of hours going over it. I’m quite comfortable with it and believe it could be a lens communication error or just a failure to read the instructions properly by the previous owner. All I need now is that lens. I’ll let you know what occurs in the repair section.

Repair:

To be quite honest it’s not really been a repair, it’s been more of a “pre flight check” to collar a phrase, going through all of the cameras capabilities and ensuring that they are all functioning correctly. As the camera was listed as faulty, and the fault was not identified, I have had to do many hours of testing and Investigation to get to this point.

I’ve done a bit of shopping and managed to buy a nice little lens from the Southern hospice group. Always happy to help a charity and secured this at a good price of £15:50GBP, and that includes the postage, for a Sigma 28-200 f/3.8-5.6 Ø72 Zoom Lens Nikon F Mount. There looks like a bit of fungus on the outermost optic, however I can always clean this if it’s too bad. If not I’ll just leave as is for the moment and keep it vacuum bagged between uses, I can always do a separate post on cleaning up fungus in a lens at a later date. (I have done a basic fungus clean in the past : Canon EF lens 35-80mm)

I wasn’t looking at spending too much here, as I only wanted a lens to test a number of Nikon repairs I have upcoming as well as this S2 Pro. This lens will fit that role perfectly, and be added to my collection of other lenses that I have that allows me to test a range of different camera products. I have also purchased an “F” mount body cover for the camera to protect the unit when there isn’t a lens attached to it.

The two CR123A batteries have arrived and have been placed in the handle grip. The warning that was there before the batteries were installed (see picture above) has disappeared and when placed in manual mode the flash fires just perfectly, no issues here.

The Lens has arrived. Good point is that it fits fine and looks good, and all electrical contacts are good. Bad point is it has severe fungus throughout, and is just like looking through a fog.

I will do a separate post on cleaning this problem up in a later post. However I’m not overly worried at this point, I paid a very low price so it was to be expected, I’m not complaining to the seller who was a Hospice, they need the money and I can fix it so there really is no problem.

That lovely looking lens hides a problem

The excellent news is that the lens does exactly what it should. The camera indications are good, all working exactly as expected . However the pictures via the screen are extremely hazy due to the fungus infection on the lens. There are no black or purple casts on the pictures so I am quite happy that we haven’t inherited the dreaded CCD issue discussed earlier in this post.

If I use the lens wide open and pop the camera into auto mode I do get an “ERR33” code and that is a communication issue between the lens and the camera. As I have stated earlier in this post, you have to have the lens set at its lowest aperture and locked for the error code to go. Fortunately this lens allows you to lock the aperture and once this is done the camera takes over the exposure when it is working in automatic mode. So as I also stated earlier, it appears the seller was probably not aware of this requirement/issue.

Result:

We have a fantastic working camera, it does all it was produced to do, it has its little quirks and oddities, but being familiar with these cameras and at least having some knowledge and awareness of how they operate is always a wise thing. Read the instructions and don’t just throw them in the drawer until you eventually sell the camera on as a damaged item, when in fact you were just lacking the knowledge on how it operates in the first place. Instruction manuals are good, they serve a purpose. Knowledge is king.

This camera cost me £8:00GBP. That is a superb price for a camera of this quality even though it is now 23 years old. It has a lot of life left in it, and I can’t wait to get it out and give it a real test.

It’s a little beauty – And the lens that needs attention

So in theory I’m confident and happy that this camera is now in a fully operational order, it’s needed a clean, it’s needed a lot of research to find out how it works, and I’ve also downloaded the operating instructions and repair pack should they be required.

It’s taking pictures and storing them. It’s just the lens at the moment isn’t performing at its best due to its fungus on the optics issue. I’m keeping the pictures stored on the card to compare them with the new pictures that will be taken once I have another lens to use.

Once the lens clean up is complete, if I ever get around to it, I will link it through this post.

Edit:

As 12/7/25 I have purchased a newer higher quality lens without any of the above issues to be able to get some instantaneous results, and as I have about seven other Nikon cameras requiring testing, some with sensor issues, it was wise to invest in a better quality lens. I have purchased a Nikon 28-100mm AF Zoom Nikkor Lens G AF-d, in perfect condition and the post regarding it can be found here: Nikon 28-100mm AF Zoom Nikkor Lens G AF-D

A newer – old lens, much superior quality

As previously stated I will add photos in this post once the new lens arrives, to show the difference from the fungus infected lens to a decent lens. The old lens is still a work in progress and I will post about it again as a separate post once the clean up is complete. It will probably be a job completed once the long winter nights are back in situ.

Below are comparison photos between the old lens with fungal issues and this new lens:

It’s just typical for me to manage to make another post from an issue that has arisen from fixing a different item. But isn’t that life? Continuous improvement is a factor we come across on an almost daily basis, and if you deal with old items as much as I do, then there is always something else that needs repairing, something that requires your attention and I just love that. The ability to improve or make something better, gives such a feeling of achievement and accomplishment, and total satisfaction. And that’s why I write this drivel. It’s for me, it’s what this blog was originally set up for. It’s my journal of what I do.

Many thanks for following this post. You know it is always very much appreciated.

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